What wideband to use w/single & race gas?
 

Asking this as my LC-1 keeps crapping out on me with the heat. I do have it mounted very close to the exhaust side of turbo and add leaded race gas it is not holding up. Not a big deal to move it down stream although I like it mounted up top for easy access. What are you guys using with the above that holds up? Also I would like it to be able to work with my datalogit.

are you sure it's the heat craping it out and not the race gas doing it? What sensor are you using? The lsu (cheap sensor) burns out quickly with race gas. THere is a more expensive sensor that doesn't burn out. You gotta see if your unit is compatible with it though.

PLX DEVICE... been using the same one for 4 years now without any issues. pump, 100 octane, c16, you name it :)

Which one are you using and what sensor? Thank you in advance.

anything running a LSU fits straight in the shit bucket basicaly ;)

Get a unit that runs a NTK if you want super accuracy at richer ends of fuel spectrum + better durability than the LSU. Sard japan make a nice unit. Autronic B model and Motec PLM (as an optional extra cost for NTK)

The one sensor that is alot more rohbust is the old type LSM-11 (Autronic A model & B model), if used on a good unit like an Autronic they are accurate pretty much down to 10.5:1 (will read down to 9.6:1) ....... but you cant have your cake and eat it sadly. LSM-11 lasts longest on leaded race fuels, but is not as fast and wont read super rich conditions (like 9.00:1).

^ the above comment is from using meters from almost every company big and small, and I tune cars almost daily now.

I have a customer with a LM-1 (I sold over a hundred or more of these!) with his semi bridge T51 600rwhp car and to get the sensor to last (not over heat) it needs to be mounted down past the drivers door or even just before the diff on other rotaries........ there is no solution though for poor durability with leaded fuels.

I have the FJO and i have not had a problem. c-16 or pump gas A friend has the lm1 and he has changed his sensor about 4 times. in about 2000 miles

to put it plain, in my opinion, the innovate stuff sucks. either the sensor is going out or the unit doesnt work, just get something thats listed above and be done with it. i myself plan on getting a PLX device.

m-300, simple and works :)

damn the m300 huh? Does that use the ntk sensor or the lsu?

Are they universal? I found one on this site, but wasn't sure if it's for any car or not. If you don't mind take a look and see. I'm not familiar with this wideband. http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/PLX-M300 ??

FJO w/NTK Sensor...

NTK Sensor like I said. But, no wideband sensor is leaded-fuel proof. That fuel will kill it.

B

Thanks all. Looks like I am going with the FJO and NTK! Anyone know the best place to buy?

fjo and ntk.

Anyone used the NEKO Corporation A/F700 or A/F640???

These are NTK sensor based (as all the decent ones are) and they are the meter of choice in japan, HKS technical centre use them as do a lot of big name tuning companies.

I will have one very soon on trial and let you all know how it goes

Fjo products: http://www.alamomotorsports.com/

When you guys are having issues with the LM-1/LC-1 sensors are you using the HBX-1 heat sinks like you are suppoed to for rotaries???

I know I'm a little late, but super happy with my AEM wbo2 setup.

Mate I have a ton of experience in this field and short answer is a decent/professional grade afr instrument when put side by side to a *glitchy* *lean spike/misfire reading* hobby shack back yard/house made version or a low cost LSU version WONT have any issues simple as that. {the Innovate is not as bad as some others, but its still has LOTS of problems, not found in other units *read below*}

You get tired of hundreds of hours of research and trouble shooting and it getsvery long in the tooth when your supporting hundreds of end users all facing the same problems as well ;)

The only solution for the cheapo pieces of crap is to mount them a long way down the pipe on high HP turbo cars or rotaries OR you make unique items like me consisting of HBX-1, 304SS heat shield, and air cooled intricate copper heat sink of sustantial mass *read very expensive solution, we are not talking about pieces of plate cut and bent here!* it works but still you get non stop glitches, un explainable things that have no mechanical correlation to what is actualy going on with the engines especialy when you run them back to back with a decent AFR meter, you quickly realize the meters are indeed a piece of shit ;)

This thread is good cause you have quite a few experienced tuners who use good quality gear and do alot of work (daily in cases on very many cars) in the field and you actualy get to see what does indeed work ;) :) :) :)

You only need to look at ALL the top grade pro level units with big reputations/customers to back up their claims, they ALL use NTK sensors....... Autronic, Motec (optional), FJO (optional), Neko corporation, SARD, NGK (^ all big name high profile companies & probably others that we dont know about) they have the highest level of accuaracy over the greatest range (see Motecs web site for a reputable opinion on this) the amount of tuners around the world who use NTK sensors on various equipment all are in consensus on this issue and some of it is typed in this thread ;)

Ok. I have a new 3rd generation (series) FJO unit with NTK sensor and round guage ready to be put in. Only question I have is it ok to mount the NTK 8-10 downstream? By the manual it just says mount it after the turbo and before the cat. No specific amount. I have a bung at 8-10 inches now. I can have another added further down if needed. I sure do not want to replace $200 sensors often.

I have an lm1 and am still on my original sensor thats over 2 years old?

i get overheat errors once in a while if im restarting the car and the dp is already wicked hot, other than that it works fine

On pump gas or leaded race? Thats the big issue for me. My Lc1 had issues with heat. My sensor is 8 inches back. Lost 1 maybe 2 off that. Last time I was on the dyno with race gas it would go into era codes after every 2-3 pulls. I would have to let it cool off and recal it then it would work. I was thinking this is some crazy shit to even trust it. The dyno was reading me in the low 12's were the LC1 was saying 11.5-11.8 area..

never used race gas on it, and probably never will

Any experience with the ngk wideband? How does that handle c16