Some Borg Warner 69mm SXE Results...
 

Well to jump on the bandwagon, here is some results from my car on the dyno @ about 4000ft elevation in Canada.

Engine Setup:
-3mm Seals - no lightening of rotors
-Large Street Port
-Gleaseman Exhaust Manifold w/ twin EGT
-Gleaseman VBand 4" Downpipe
-Borg S369SXE- .92
-ThermalZero custom turbo blanket
-All downpipes/wastegate exit wrapped
-Ceramic coated intake manifold
-Custom wastegate entry off turbine housing to TIAL gate - dumped to atmos
-3.5" Exhaust tapering after 4" downpipe
-ID1050x & 2000's

Auxillary Setup:
-Haltech Elite 2500 w/ EMAP
-Sakebomb Ignition kit
-Aquamist HFS-3 auxillary injection
-Pettit CC3 intercooler
-Radium Surge Tank with (2) walbro 400's
-Walbro 400 lift pump
-FlexFuel sensor

Driveline:
-OS Giken Twin Disc
-Stock Transmission

Photos of setup (some in-progress ones)






423WHP on approximately 18psi for Shell 91 and a 50/50 water/meth


477WHP on ~21psi on Pump E85 + Water/meth (tires flexing on dyno, Nitto NT555R's)


Video on E85

Good work. Looks like power is dropping off after 5,500 RPMs, is that boost dropping off? You shouldn't be out of port and you definitely shouldn't be out of turbo.

I was told it was tire flex on dyno causing that, but honestly I'm not sure why it doesnt hold power that well.

How did you find boost control to respond with that wastegate orientation? Was it divided?

He probably meant .92 which is a divided housing.

I too would like to see the boost curve during the dyno run.

Control was accurate, minor creep 1-2psi.


I don't have a sheet from the tuner handy that has boost reference.

I'll be likely re-dynoing the car on the MPS4S tires this year for more accurate readout.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...19b30e28eb.jpg

The above graph was on the revised Haltech software, same tuner/dyno just a year later (last year) for a "update" tune. No other changes, still on same tires.

Like I mentioned I'll be going back now that I got some good street tires.

Here is torque graph

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...56c84df5c3.jpg

23 psi on a S369 should be closer to 600rwhp. The fact that your only gaining 100rwhp from 14 to 23 psi, and the choppiness of your graph, leads me to believe you are having ignition problems... Choppiness gets worse with boost. Since you have the smart coils, what plug and gap are you running?? What are your dwell settings on those smart coils?

Its even more sever at 7,500 where you only picked up about 25hp between 18 psi and 23 psi.

Not trying to sound negative, but you have a sweet setup and could potentially gain 100rwhp if you figure out what it is.

"23 psi on a S369 should be closer to 600rwhp."

yes.

you have a flow problem. the center of the torque curve should be further to the right with your setup.

torque is flow. often when you are looking for a significant amount of hp there is a flow issue.

perhaps unrelated but could you show a picture of your airfilter

again, not negative here, just looking for answers.

BKR7's, the shop gapped them - not sure what they're set at. The shop also tuned it, not sure what the dwell time on the coils is.

Not running an air filter at this time, only a mesh screen from TurboGuard.



Rememeber guys, I'm 3500ft elevation on a Dyno Dynamics, which reads 10% lower (FIA Standard) than the disneyjets and hub dynos you're probably used to.

Even if all of that is true (low from elevation and low from a heart-breaker dyno), it still doesn't square the fact that you only picked up 25 horsepower between 18-23 psi. You should have picked up close to 100hp.

Also, I hope you are not running a heat range 7 plug, or waves in the graph could be detonation. Should be 10 minimal, if not 10.5 or 11. I would gap um down to 18-20 thousands and see if the car picks up a bunch of power. You can always add gap later.

Good luck with it and keep us posted. I'm not expert either so don't take my comments too seriously...

air pressure at 3500 feet is 12.9. (thanks Google) so 12.9 / 14.7 = .877 1/ .877 = 1.14 X 477 = 544 not bad at all,

especially considering your Turbo Guard restricts intake area between 19 and 21% depending on the model.

perhaps you visited their website where they compare the Turbo Guard to a Vibrant airfilter and of course came out on top.

the Vibrant airfilter is model 10931 and is 3.65 height by 5.25 width so it is not so surprising they won the day.

there's not a lot of mystery with filters... larger area wins as less restriction.

for example, i run a K & N RD-1460. it is 9 inches in length and 7 inches in diameter. filter area 197.92 sq inches

the RD-1450 is 6 inches in length and 7 inches in diameter with a filter area of 131.95 sq inches

K & N fixes flow rates (at 1.5 inches of water) at 1187.52 CFM for the RD-1460 and 791.68 CFM for the RD-1450

the 1460 has 50% more area and... 50% more flow in relation to resistance.

size matters.

now let's look at the Vibrant filter

3.625 X 5.25 .... total filter area... 59.78

59.78 / 197.92 = .30

1187.52 CFM X .30 = 359 CFM. (caveat here, perhaps Vibrant has a better flowing element... it better be waaay better:)

so the Turbo Guard beat out the tiny filter.

for those with unfortunate packaging situations with regard to their airfilter the TG might be a better option as long as filtration is not important.

your power corrected for altitude is pretty good. considering your intake area is reduced 19 to 21% from the Turbo Guard it is mighty good.

your lack of power pickup with higher boost, as was just mentioned, could be a flow restriction from the Turbo Guard.

"Also, I hope you are not running a heat range 7 plug, or waves in the graph could be detonation. Should be 10 minimal, if not 10.5 or 11. I would gap um down to 18-20 thousands and see if the car picks up a bunch of power. You can always add gap later."

if you are running 7s you need to switch them for 10s at a minimum.

overall, good job keep us posted.



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Hey guys, I checked again, spark plugs are BR10EIX

I don't know what the gap is, I might try gapping a fresh set I have sitting here to a (edit) .021 and see how it goes