S366 Fitment
 

I have the typical ebay-style tubular manifold modified only to accept my Synapse 50MM wastegate. Might be an OBX. I had a 60-1 on it and it worked fine.

I'm thinking of getting a S366.

Any chance of getting a Borg Warner S366 to clear with this manifold? Someone has to have tried by now. :)

I also run the Pineapple idler pulley and yes I've seen Turblowns manifold but do not have the cash to drop on the turbo, manifold, AND two wastegates.

Should I go for the extended tip forward facing model? Are the 11 blade billet wheels worth the extra cash?

I have a 3" v-band downpipe. Are there adapters to be had or will I need to modify my downpipe?

We are probably going to putting together a " tax time " sale on turbo combinations( turbo manifold + wgs, turbo manifold + turbo, complete turbos systems etc). Shoot me a PM with your budget and I will see what we can do for you.

Honestly I don't think the billet 11 blade on this size turbo is worth it for 95% of FD owners. You can make 600rwhp with the cast aero; that is more than the drive-train can handle.

To be honest, my budget was the cost of the turbo - and MAYBE the billet wheel if I was feeling baller. :)

I'm not sure what it would end up costing me materials-wise to modify my downpipe to match the S366 but obviously that has to be figured out too.

I'm cool with my el-cheapo manifold and I'd run with it, if it will fit. They are so common, I figured someone has to have tried.

I wasn't looking for 600+ out of the billet wheel, I was looking for more power sooner. I want to keep my boost at less than 17 lbs (the imaginary number in my head safe for pump gas). Whatever power I ended up with - thats what it would be.

my manifold is trackforged, idk about your WG placement

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...1-16220225.jpg

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...1-12180419.jpg

I was basically asking about the same el-cheapo mass produced manifolds floating around:

OBX
SSAutochrome
Megan Racing

I guess I can just buy the turbo and complain later but I figured I'd ask anyway.

I also see a couple ppl running ebay manifolds, curious how they hold up/performance.

If you have the common eBay version that is a greddy knock off it should fit fine. Possibly minor tweaking to get the turbine housing to clear the LIM.

I had my manifold built by Elliot @ Turblown, and no issues at all perfect fitment.
If you go with the cheap manifold from eBay you will have fitment issues as the turbo will touch the frame. And you will need to modify the manifold to make it clear.



Attachment 682949

Attachment 682950

This ebay manifold:

Attachment 682946

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I had that manifold and didn't even installed it due to the turbo hitting the frame. Another member had that manifold and had to modified it to clear the frame also.

IIRC, the ebay manifolds don't allow use of a motor mount heat shield, in addition to being crack-prone. The BW have monster turbine housings, so my bet is you'll either have interference on the frame or on the LIM. Either place will basically serve as a heat sink while running the car, not ideal.

7dust, with some kind of AI your boost target is fine, but I don't recommend running 17 psi on straight pump gas. You'll be ok until one small thing goes wrong...... in theory it's fine, and some will tell you it's fine, but with so many variables I don't recommend it.

Either look into some kind of cheap/simple AI, or keep the boost around 1 bar.

My two pesos :)

^^^ I hear you.

Will run 200cc of water at 10psi or so. I'll tune without it though.

I don't think the BW turbine would be a problem on my El Cleapo manifold - I bet its the compressor.

I guess no one has tried it - or no one wants to chime in. SO, I'm going to buy one and see how it fits.

Its being tried already, and it will hit the frame, you will have to modify the manifold

Been there already. Had to modify it. The turbo hit the body.

Buying the turbo today $650 shipped. Still have to get an adapter to fit my 3' exhaust tho. :/

Do I want the .91 or 1.0 housing?

I have a half bridgeported REW

s372

^^^ Do like.

Keep your arms, face, body, and small children away!!!! :D

I ended up getting the S366 with the .91 housing. Six fiddy shipped.

lololol thank You... you ll love the turbo man . good luck with it

check out race parts solutions for the proper full marmon vband flange.

or shell out $70 at your local john deere store lol

Yep my local Race Part Solutions carry the Mormon style vband flange for your down pipe, the standard v band flange won't work on Borg Warner Turbos.


650.00 is what the S366 go for from pretty all major turbo dealers.

^^^ Thats my plan, to get the Marmon to 3" adapter from Race Parts Solutions.

They can bring the Marmon Vband down to 3" to fit the exhaust I have now. I am going to try and weld a 3" v-band flange to the adapter on the blank end so that I can v-band that to my downpipe. That way I don't have to cut my downpipe.

If that doesn't work, I'll just cut the downpipe and weld the adapter on.

$650 is a good price - AND that I got it at that price shipped.

im getting myne for 600 shipped local .. weird they go for that cheap

Attachment 681473

Say Hello to my Little Friend!!!

AND turbo fits fine on ebay style manifold.

Does not hit frame or LIM. Makes me wonder if posters above have tried it or just talk shit.

can you post a picture of your fitment?

I have some hoses to move around and am working on a few proects simultaneously so excuse some of the clutter:

Attachment 680977

BAM!

S366 fitment cost:

S366: Six Fiddy Shipped
OBX / Megan / SSAC style ebay manifold: $100 ish (already had this)
Synapse 50MM Wastegate: $300 Shipped (already had this)
Marmon Flange and Clamp: $80 shipped

looks to fit ok. congrats man.

id like to fit this turbo on an hks cast but i'm sure it won't clear without a spacer of some sort.

Maybe this ebay manifold its diferent than the one Jorge used on his S366 but his did touch the frame, he had to weld another spacer on top of the manifold in order to clear on his car, anyways great that it worked for you.

might be hit or miss on the manifolds

I will be trying to fit this turbo on an HKS cast manifold within the next 4 weeks, maybe sooner if time allows.

I was looking at it closely and it looks like the compressor will hit the frame.
I spoke with arthur with the YouTube famous videos and he put a slit into the frame to clear it.
i'm thinking maybe an extra t4 flange will bring the turbo high enough to clear.


keep us posted on that David.

Hey 7dust, didyou get the car running yet?

We listed our house Tuesday for sale and it is already under contract to close in 4 weeks, that is great of course but will delay testing. I figured it would take months to sell and I would have time to finish the car. I may still be able to test fit it before we move but it will be cutting it close.

Not yet. Had some trouble getting the marmon flange but I finally got it.

Also a few things I'm fixing on my FD at the same time that have been bugging me. Oil leaks, squeaky stuff, stupid wiring, changing boost controllers, larger intercooler, replace AC condenser

My girlfriend has been bugging me to get her turbovert finished enough to start it so there's that.

Oh yeah, to top it off I'm trying to get the very first 24 Hours of LeMons FD caged, running and ready. Its a real shitbox and needs lots of attention too.

I do all my work outside in a gravel driveway and its been kinda chilly and dark lately when I get home during the week.

/whining

7dust, sent you a pm buddy.

Its a tight fit, mine was literally against the fender, I also had to move a water hose beneath the turbo.

Attachment 678627

Dan,

Is that with the HKS cast manifold? I received a pm yesterday stating it would not fit as it would hit the inner fender/frame. Is yours actually touching? Personally I wouldnt run it if it was touching as any vibration in the engine will cause a terrible rattle. Not to mention probably high unreliable knock readings and other issues.

Attachment 678333

First, yes I know I work slow.

Turbo fitment went great except will probably end up making a new heater hard line. For now, the stock one got a longer soft hose and I zip tied it out of the way.

Since I'm in the middle of so many other projects on this car I hope to be able to drive it in a week or so:

I went from China Speed M-spec Knock off IC to a Greddy 3 row so need to trim the bumper just a bit more.

Need to figure out if I can live with that Type R BOV perched precariously over my hot battery terminal or if a piece of rubber between them (just in case) will let me sleep at night.

I noticed my front sway bar bushings are non existant so ordered some polyurethane ones and waiting on them before putting the undertray back on.

AC system was evacuated since I replaced my old beat up piece of shit condenser with a new kinda beat up less shitty condenser. I was a cheap, lazy bastard and reused my old o-rings and hoped it wouldn't leak. Well, it does. :scratch: Its easier to fix this with the undertray off too.

My girlfriend makes me work on her Turbo Convertible when she's around so there it that too. I was supposed to have it running last September but I rolled the LeMons RX2 over in a race, and broke my arm in a few places. My arm still aches so I like to do my wrenching in short sessions.

My 24 Hours of LeMons FD should be back from being caged in the next few days and it has to be running by the first week of May.

I'm rally racing in Mexico the last week of April.

I'll get there.

Promise.

I guess someone should have spoke up and just told you to flip the hard heater line upside down.

I think it could be made to work better with a tubing bender and some persuasion - but flipping it upside down wouldn't help too much.

Putting it under the turbo like MazdaSpeedDan might be a viable option too!

Its not that bad as it is, I'll get around to fixin it.

When you flip the hard line upside down it runs the lines beneath the turbo and still hugs the frame rail. It is the common fix for that problem with big single kits and is really nice and hidden afterwords and is more out of the way of the heat from the turbine housing.

Anybody tried the 366 on a greddy T78 manifold?

So dan, you made it work on the hks t4 mani?

ebay mani worked

Will it work with A-Spec long runner manifold?

i am having charge pipe issues with my s366 and 90* housing.

i cant seem to make the bend work with my rx7store greddy knock off FMIC.

i see in the picture above that the hot side IC pip that goes around the rad is 2 pieces on yours, mine is only 1. so i had a fabricator friend over to make some pie cuts to try and make it work but still couldn't get the right angle. But i am using a track forged manifold that may sit higher then others.

what size turbine are u all using on the 366? .91/1.00/1.10??