Old School single To4s BB to BW s363
 

I am doing this post for people who already have a single system that want to upgrade to BW turbos. Anyway with that said I have the XS Engineering To4s BB turbo and I deceide this winter to upgrade to BW s363. So i brought the BW s363 & Greddy manifold. Most said it will fit the XS manidolf it does Not. So i deceide to fit the Greedy manid & the BW s363 turbine is much larger and there is few obstacle: 1st it's hiting the pineapple racing idle pully, 2nd due to the exhaust housing being larger the oil feed line is touching it, that means i need a new ss line for oil feed no big. Anyway i am welcoming info on how some makes the BW 363 & 366 fit since they carrier larger housing.

Khris, I could have told you that you'd have fitment issues :). People use a custom manifold built to place the turbo in a proper position. As you discovered, the BW has very large compressor and turbine housings which makes for fitment issues. This is one advantage Garrett turbos have over the BW line.

You're going to need a custom manifold Khris. All my single turbo stuff is on sale. Mine fits the BW turbos with no issues. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...s-etc-1072102/

To fit the S366 on the greddy manifold you can just weld an extra exhaust flange onto the manifold. This acts as a spacer (pushes the whole turbo assembly 1/2" away from the engine) and provides the clearance needed. I think a flange is like $50 and then $50 for someone at an exhaust shop to weld it up.

You will still need a down pipe fabbed up.

Ok, do u have any actual pictures of the BW installed on the car? Is it touching the strut frame area? Also is both of your items in stock or it has be order first?
When I get a minute I take a look at your manifold & downpipe setup.

I never thought of that idea, but thanks for it I will look into it.

I can't help but feel like you've been told multiple times, by multiple different people, that you'd be much better off getting a turbo kit designed for the turbo you want (as a full and complete package) instead of trying to piecemeal it all together.. You probably would have saved yourself a LOT of hassle (and money in fabbing/fixing/customizing) if you'd have just gotten it all as a unit from the get go. :dunno:

Dennis with the black FD should have one. I just made a kit for him recently. No it doesn't hit the strut tower bar. There is plenty of clearance.

I will have a single wastegate kit ready to go in a couple days. Did you want a downpipe too?

If you do decide to try to weld another flange to your Greddy manifold to space it out, make sure you get the manifold faced by a machine shop. You are going to have to put a lot of heat into the flanges to weld them because of the thickness and it tends to warp the metal. Its kind of a bandaid solution if you ask me.

You can click the link on the left for my instagram. I have the IR manifold and dp with a BW turbo. it doesn't come into contact with anything for me.

I can take some pictures from other angles if you want.

:bluesuit::bluesuit::bluesuit:

Here you go

The 2nd picture is what my setup will look like if I decide to proceed with the BW turbo, I have no clue why I decide to change my current setup! anyway does your manifold required your downpipe as well?

Yes, every style manifold will require its own downpipe because of the different placement of the turbo. You might be able to modify yours to work but Its best to buy a manifold and a downpipe designed to work together. I have them on sale for $1199 now. You'll get better spool and power out of a modern turbo like an S360 over the old school to4s, especially with a better manifold.

The IRP turbo manifold design has proven to work very well in a track environment on Scrub's FD, he must have dozens of track days on the same turbo kit by now :icon_tup:

You clearly just want to make a sale. How is it a bandaid solution. Money already spent on the first build years ago, old T78 is worn out and expensive to fix. Very simple to bolt on a S366 and modify the existing manifold and down pipe. All it is is a 1" flange instead of 1/2" now, how is that any type of bandaid, I'd call it not wasting money. And I had no warping issues, just bolt it down to a welding table when you weld it, no leaks.

Please dont take the following as an attack, just a tradesman voicing an opinion:

I'd still get it faced afterwards. The more heat to weld it, the more the material pulls. Of the choices, definitely the less expensive alternative. The reason I wouldnt want to do it that way is because you are now using two different condition metals. One that has been heat cycled over and over, and fresh steel. Any welder worth his salt can tell you they will weld differently. And considering my job is dealing with welds and how to account for the movement of metal because of said welds, I can tell you for sure that there will be considerable internal tension in the weldment area. Enough to warp 1"? Probably not if you bold it down as well. But that tension has to go somewhere.

If you are going to save a bunch of money, why not spend a few bucks to make sure the budget method will have good results? Just machine the face afterwards. Done and done.

Now in a perfect world with unlimited budget, the ideal manifold would be welded together and then brought up to very high temps to relieve all of the weld stress through the entire piece and slowly cooled in an even manner. Then you would machine all mating surfaces and have a very long lasting and reliable unit. However, considering the life span of most builds, pretty much not needed for our realm. :-)

Seriously Collin? Because you have so much experience with single turbo kit fabrication and have so many high horsepower cars running around out there :crackup: I do things one way. The right way. Never said that your idea wouldn't work but its not the ideal way to do things. I think Nathan pretty much covered why this could cause problems. My point of being on here is to give solid advice and to help prevent the community for become another Honda meet with ebay parts and poorly sorted builds. My kits are proven on the street and track with numbers and hard data. If I make a sale in the process, great. With over 20 fds, 5 rx-8s, and a few other projects at my shop right now I am hardly hurting for business. If you like we can talk more in person.

Why is everyone so angry and argumentative lately? First all the Howard bashing, now this.

I think everyone is on edge from spending too much money on people they barely like...Happy Holidays lol

I'm wondering the same thing :dunno: Just trying to help people out here.

I know you can build good cars, didnt say you couldn't. And I never said ive built a bunch of cars (i dont own a shop).

You called what I threw out there as an option proven to work well a band aid. There is a big difference between being resourceful and a bandaid fix. It was a suggestion to help keep his cost down and would yield perfectly fine results (he doesn't race competitively so any marginal impact from the manifold wouldn't really be noticed as long as it seals to the block). You would also never be able to tell aesthetically either.

Go with the "band-aid", actually seems like a smart idea and a good way to save money.

Buy a new manifold if it fails down the road. What do you have to loose? An exhaust leak?

I'd go with the modification as well, but I don't think I'd go to the local "muffler shop" to get it done. As was mentioned, there are specific application and materials considerations that need to be addressed. An experienced welder/fabricator could take these things into consideration and make it work.

Wow i did not expect this topic to turn out this way!
After i did somemore reaserch it seems that Collin idea is not that bad afterall. I found Banks Power company made a Twin Turbo kit for chevy SB. They use the same type flange between the exhaust manifold and the turbo housing, and the engine made 1100 hp. Also Pineapple Racing makes a (Big Turbo) idler pully kit for $169, which will solve my current idler pully issues. Therefore only thing is left for me to do is to purchase is a new wastegate and oil feed line then i make the current system work. Which will cost less than buying a new manifold & downpipe combo.

Just make sure you get the manifold faced after you get it welded. You are going to have to put a lot of heat into the flanges because of the thickness. From the pic it looks like you have the standard marmon flange on your borg warner. You are going to have to either modify your existing downpipe or get a whole new one. The marmon flange is a bit longer than a standard 3" v band so the easiest thing to do is cut off the existing flange on your downpipe and weld on a marmon flange. Before you do any of that I would have helper hold up the downpipe flush to the turbo and make sure it lines up with your midpipe under the car and doesn't hit anything. For a wastegate I recommend a minimum of a Tial MVR 44mm. You can also go with Precision. You will also have to change the wastegate flange on your manifold. The big turbo Pineapple idler should work. I couldn't see in the pic if your existing idler was interfering. For the oil feed and return thats easy. Take a string or piece of silicone hose and measure the length from the iron to the turbo. I like to give an extra inch or two. It would be best to use a 90 degree fitting on each end. I usually have the local hydraulic shop just make me the line. If you want to bring it by I can do it all for you.