Need a little help with plugs, and i did search but you know how that goes
i have a T61 running 15 lbs of boost and just had the car tuned right at 11.0 AFR. 2 days after the tune doing some 3rd gear pulls i could feel the car pull hard than not than pull hard than not all the way throught the RPM's. Did this for a day or so thani decided to change my plugs, went with the BUR9EQ all around car has been back to normal for 3 days now. Well i just went out for lunch and got on it a few times and it's back to stumbling on and off with the power again all through third and fourth, so i turned the boost down to 12 psi and same thing if it's the plugs again what could be causing this? and is there another plug i can use instead? i do drive the car everyday and put quite a few miles on it regularly, is there a colder plug thats not any more expensive than the 6.00 i pay for these?
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If you are fouling out the plugs due to a rich mixture, you might try the stock 7 leading and 9 trailing for the street. The stock 7 leading will burn hotter and foul less. For track use, I would run colder plugs due higher continual EGT's.
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Stock ignition? sometimes an ignition amp helps with the plug fouling.
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Post your entire set up, and we can help. DO NOT RUN hotter plugs than you tuned with without consulting your tuner. as for 6.00 plugs, if you have a six dollar motor I say go for it ;)
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Originally Posted by Carl Byck
Post your entire set up, and we can help. DO NOT RUN hotter plugs than you tuned with without consulting your tuner. as for 6.00 plugs, if you have a six dollar motor I say go for it ;)
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Well, with an E6K my drivability, and response was far better than stock with 6725-11.5 plugs. At 11.0:1 if you are fouling plugs you have other problems. At 10.0:1, I do not have fouling. Hotter plugs retain heat which in turn increases the likelyhood of detonation. Unless you know how hot those plug tips are EGTs are not in and of them selves enough to say you can run hotter plugs. Basicly anything you can do in a rotary to reduce heat that does not adverly effect performance should be done. If you take every litttle heat reduction opportunity you will have a more reliable longer lasting engine...There are so many variables that can effect our motors that every safeguard you can take is a good one. You'll notice that the top drag and road racers spend at least as much time, if not more on reliability vs absolute power. So, do as you wish obviously, but lie running a dyno tunedc 11.0:1 on the street, boosting 16-18 lbs on 91-93, running close splits at high boost, etc do relatively little for power, and drasticly decrease reliability. I've had the same motor for 4 years, it has seen 28+ psi plenty of times and it's running strong. Compare that to the norm... BTW,You asked;) Carl
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Originally Posted by Carl Byck
Well, with an E6K my drivability, and response was far better than stock with 6725-11.5 plugs. At 11.0:1 if you are fouling plugs you have other problems. At 10.0:1, I do not have fouling. Hotter plugs retain heat which in turn increases the likelyhood of detonation. Unless you know how hot those plug tips are EGTs are not in and of them selves enough to say you can run hotter plugs. Basicly anything you can do in a rotary to reduce heat that does not adverly effect performance should be done. If you take every litttle heat reduction opportunity you will have a more reliable longer lasting engine...There are so many variables that can effect our motors that every safeguard you can take is a good one. You'll notice that the top drag and road racers spend at least as much time, if not more on reliability vs absolute power. So, do as you wish obviously, but lie running a dyno tunedc 11.0:1 on the street, boosting 16-18 lbs on 91-93, running close splits at high boost, etc do relatively little for power, and drasticly decrease reliability. I've had the same motor for 4 years, it has seen 28+ psi plenty of times and it's running strong. Compare that to the norm... BTW,You asked;) Carl
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