my build up update... some huge pics and questions.
 

well i have been working for the last 2 months on beasting my stock block s4 tii.

I had a stage 1 hybrid and put down 247@11psi. ran a 13.3 at 106, 2.1 60' with my old setup.

I decided it was time to step it up and run with you fast people.... so here is what i got:

(installed so far)
haltech e6k 2x680cc & 2x 1680cc
master power t-70, 1.00 a/r hot side divided.
ssauto Fd divided manifold and 50mm HKS clone WG with 10psi spring.
3" DP and 3" RSR catback
24x12x3 custom fmic
Dual horn RFL bov
pineapple racing alternator relocation bracket
All block off plates
Removed rats nest and hard lines
New fuel lines with aftermarket FPR set to 40psi base with pressure gauge.
efan from a 3.8L ford. bigger fan than stock, shroud fits rad perfect. (fingers crossed)

Sitting in a box.. getting installed over the next few days:
60mm hks boost and egt (peak hold)
52mm water temp (for now)
Plx m-300
Water/meth injection


My goal is 400rwhp, we will see on dyno day...



here is a few pics: yes i know its dirty :bigthumb:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../01aug1605.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../02aug1605.jpg

i will post more updates in this thread... Ill take lots more pics tomarrow.

sleeper I ran the same efan setup and it would not keep cool on the highway under normal driving. I see you have removed your ac and that might be enuff to do it. I had to go back to the stock clutch fan. I also have the same 50mm gate and which color spring is 10lbs? Never got any responce from SSAC on that.

yea his e-fan punched me in the throat OMFGBLACKBABYSHONEYSBREAKFAST!

all my ac is gone... condenser and all. I got a few big sheets of aluminum to duct air to the radiator. im hoping that will do it... where do you live, how hot is it there?


well i havent been able to bost it and wont be able to for a little bit... so i actually dont know if it is th 10psi spring. i just looked on the site and it showed it came with a 9.7psi spring. what spring did your have when it came?

I got 5 different springs that are all different colors.

And I live in DC/Balt area and its the hottest on the east coast here daily. I went back to my stock rad and clutch fan and now i have temps of 200-205 on the highway. To hot for me. I am going to ditch the ac here soon and get some same day temp change info. Then if it acts ok I might try the ford fan again. Not having ac will suck but this is not my DD anyway.

update:

well the car cranks and idles. but umm... not so well.

it cranks right up and idles at 700rpms. but rocks side to side pretty hard. it sounds like it running on one rotor. Wile letting it idle i pulled the L2 plug wire and it chanced the idle none... not even a little.

Then replaced it and pulled the L1 wire and it got noticeably quieter... and idled down some, got smoother and didnt shake nearly as much.... weird.

The timing light shows the L1 wire hitting right dead on the pully mark. so the timing is dead on like it was before i installed the haltech and turbo stuff.
The L2 wire makes the timing light hit somewhere on the pully... not sure where. Its no where near the marks.

there is no smell of raw fuel from the exhaust...
The motor sounds like it did before when i crank it over with the 3a haltech fuse pulled.
I checked the plugs and they look good.... i plan to put a new one in the L2 spot to be sure.
I pulled the leading plugs one at a time and cranked it over and got three very strong and equal pulses.


what should i check next?

how come the L2 timing light mark dosent hit anywhere near the marks?

It could be "hunting" for idle.........richen the idle some
see if it smooths out
invest in a wideband next

M-300 or LM-1

put timing lock on( I have MT so try to find similiar feature) and accel the car. See if l1 and l2 are different... If they are, then I suggest swapping L coils with a know working one.. They are fed by the same signal, so there is no way that they could be different.

Why do you have a alt rel bracket? Are you going EWP?

hes got a plx m300 just not hooked up yet, maybe he got it in now.

i got some new plugs and plan to put them in tomarrow. timing lock was on this whole time... oops.

i had to move the L coil for the ic pipes... its not really grounded that wall at all.

im going to change the plugs, ground the coil pack and turn timing lock off.

if that dosent fix it then i think it would have to be the rear primary inector is not firing.....? how do i check that? im getting like .18 volts at the injector plug with the key to the "on" possition... but is it firing? i dunno....
seems if it was a fouled plug it would smell of gas from the exhaust... and the plug would be wet. it dosent smell and its not wet.


i could say something like i wanted better air flow over the top of the motor, but the truth is that late drunken night i sent the money for it... i thought it looked good. rice it up baby.

i do... and its not. im working on it, but i dont have the exhaust done to that point back to where i plan to put the bung for it. i was also scared i would foul out the sensor if it ran crazy like crap while i worked out the bugs.
and hey its running like crap....

Why dont you measure other pri. injector and see what voltage it has. IIRC it should have 12v running to it.

alright i got alot done today.

turns out the problem was not spark related... the rear rotor was not getting fuel. My dumbass reused the stock injector clips and they were not making good contact. I got the ones from autozone and rewired my harness.

the thing fired right up! yay!

so then i moved to the inside of the car.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...perfc/dash.jpg


i put in my CF dash thing. Was a total pain in the ass.... i dont look forward to going in there later if there is a problem. I took my time and make everything neat... and it all tested good. yay.

I dont have much left to do. its gonna be too fast for my paint.

Did you break the manifold down and reweld it, or are you using the stock welds they put on there?

- Steiner

the welds look good. I got the manifold in and checked it out. The quality is about 7 of 10. on the welds. The flanges and thinkness of the steel is very nice. one of the holes for the wastegate flange was a little off... but a drill fixed that in 1 min. It took one RB spacer to fit the big ass turbo.

I paid $99 for the manifold. If it breaks ill either get it fixed or buy another.... and still come out on top over paying 500 or 600 for a custom one.

i got my down pipe done today. should have exhaust on tomarrow and finished. now i gotta get my damn bov flange welded in... this sucks... silly aluminum welding.

my buddy FINALLY got a tig welder and steel is easy, now we just gotta tackle aluminum :)

is that an SS Fmic too? whered u get it from? how much $?

i was hoping to get the manifold, and different turbo too.... how is the downpipe spacing? where does the turbo sit now? are you routing the wastegate back into the downpipe? or open dump?

im really interested, cuz i'll be doing the same thing this winter

thanks,Dan. :bigthumb:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=fmic the whole fmic setup was under $450.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...c/DSC00014.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...c/DSC00013.jpg

Im running the FD manifold on a FC. you talking about getting a FC manifold right?
This manifold makes the turbo sit way up front.
ill take some pics from the other side tomarrow when i put my DP on. I need to make a heat shield for the hot side... it does sit kinda close to the LIM. (1" or so)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...c/DSC00016.jpg


you can see i used a N/A TB elbow... I used 3" ic pipes... everything is 3".... we will see how bad the lag monster is.

I had to make a custom DP... well i reused alot of the 3" DP i had.. but i needed to change somethings to make it work. ill post the pics as i take em.

Right now the dump pipe fromt he WG is open... i might route it back in some day. but for now its open.

it was hell doing this on the hot days in a storage building... so i did alot of it at night. a few hours at a time.

man i seriously like that alternator relocation... really clears up the top of the engine...

can i run this along with my power steering?

nope... :(

did u just buy pre-bent polished piping?


whoops, nvm. i saw your other post...

did all the piping fit pretty much perfectly?

well you see the pic i posted in the other thread. it comes with six "L" bends.... I cut the pipes to fit. it was pretty easy actually.

the clamps it comes with suck tho.

You are totally gay sir! U need to be flogged....

Your car is still slower than mine....lol

But good work man, u have put many hours into it and have done a decent job if i do say so myself..

One last thing....Git-r-done.. We need to go race more bikes..

Its been a while since i have updated so here goes.

The car has been parked for a few months while i have been in college. Fuel system problems were giving me hell before i left. The weekend before moving up here I figured out it was a clogged fuel line. fun.

Well in two weeks i have a week off for spring break. Im ordering a knock off gp sports kit in a few days. it should be there when im off for break. I also plan to install a few gauges and put the new fuel lines on.

Ill make sure to take lots of pics while i do it.

my plan is to bring the car up here when i finish. expect videos. the only car up here that is even close is a ls1 fd. Im sure ill get to have a talk with him when my bring my car out.

sweet. i kinda forgot about this project...

i'm ready for another update!