NTK sensor all the way....

I purschased my FJO wideband back in 2002 and the original sensor has over 3 years of use (race, tune and everyday commute on pump gas).
I did replaced it with a NTK L2H2 after doing constant long highway pulls with a bike and realized I was running 1 A/F point leaner. It was about 8" after turbo and probably overheated it.
I did place it back on the car recently vs my L2H2 and new L1H1 and its ok now !
I recommend placing them 12-18" after turbo, mainly in our rotaries.

My friend uses AEM w/ their widebands and he's go thru sensors on those Hondas on C16 like crazy !!!

JD

I purchased a used Techedge v1.0 with a used L1H1 sensor back in 2003. My cars average approx. 4,xxx miles per year. I have also used 25-50 gallons of 110 leaded. I am content with this setup.

I've also read that running 2 stroke will kill a bosche sensor in a matter of minutes. and we all know howmany of us are premixing.

Being Innovates dealer in Australia at the start (before I moved onto other things) I have spent more time on wide bands than I care to remember.

I offer you this advice:

LSU are garbage: be they used with a serial number and inflated price by MoMoney sorry Motec ! or Innovates cheap alternative ;)

NTK = quality

I use only Autronic B model EGA (the best affordable meter on market) and use my NTK for the reasons stated by others earlier in this thread.

By comparison a LSU device will suffer poor life, trigger constant errors due to overheat or be inacurate if this is not activated in software. Dont believe many compaines propoganda... LSU's are crap period :)

LSM11 is a far more rohbust product by comparison to a LSU, by nature it will work with leaded fuel for a longer time and I use mine in such applications to spare my NTK, accuracy as measured on my own fabricated gas testing rig is identical from 10:1 to 15:1 but responce is slower, btw the Innovate is just as accurate just its too glitchy for a serious tuner who depends on his instrument :)

P.S. Our PLM and M400 with wideband enabled BOTH suffered overheat after 10 minutes tuning on our SAE car last week on the dynapack, and that is after being fitted with a 316SS remote ventury sample bung to reduce heat affects ..... they truely are a piece of shit ;) The problem is SO bad with them that Main Line dyno company here in Aus usualy will supply Microtech meters to some shops (though they use the same sensor *and hence suffer same problems* !) to avoid constant over heating errors, instead they just give an inaccurate AFR measure LOL !!!

I might be wrong but I believe that most of the widebands on the market presently that are using the Bosch sensors are not spending enough time and researching the proper operation of the heater circuit. It's well know that certain manufactures are more prone to problems than others. I know of one brand of wideband that would kill the sensor the minute you use leaded fuel where as the same sensor in another unit would last some time.

That's just about true for most of their products.

Thats odd. My innovative has read .1 to all the 3 tail sniffers it has compared to on the dyno in the past year. One of rememberance being a PLX. It probably has to do w/ me never running leaded on the bosch sensor. G

I asked AFX about using a NTK sensor. Their answer is below.

The AFX is supplied new with a Bosch wideband sensor. The replacement sensor for the AFX is NTK 24302 (an NTK built sensor). The AFX system is designed to operate with either the Bosch or NTK wideband sensor without any reflash or software updates.

Do you know if this NTK 24302 sensor is at par with the L1H1/L2H2?

Thanks

Think about who makes this wideband. NGK right.
Then think about who makes the NTK sensor in the first place. NGK.

It's a good wideband and probably the best you will find at that price.

Not sure what the NTK 24302 is but i know the wideband works with L1H1 sensors.

I'm guessing it's a replacement for L1H1. Also i believe new honda's are coming OEM with this sensor. MDX's and Accords...

I use a innovate wideband on my 12abp nitrous car. I had the sensor in the collector, but it began throwig the error code for being over heated. I had to put it near the exhaust exit to get it not to die all the time. I've been through 4 sensors. BTW, if you go to the local auto parts store, and buy the O2 sensor for a 2002 VW VR6, its the same sensor. I did notice the "speed" and reading would change after several hours of use with leaded gas, so I killed two of them that way. I always took my sensor out if I intended to just drive the car around (cruisin it). I only used it for tuning. It always seem to give realistic results when tuning on the motor, but when I would use the nitrous, it would always say the car was at 9.1 A/F (or so), no matter hoow I tuned the setup. I never could figure that out.

don't that suck...