gt35r here i come too!
So, i love my car. I love it good. I got it about a year or so ago. It looked beautiful until i started digging. Then i found a plethora of things wrong with it. Vacuum lines were all busted...literally all of them. Boost couplers were broken. Coolant looked like rust (this one really bit me in the ass). Coolant hoses were all nasty and cracking. But man was the body straight. So i bought it for a good deal. Then i started going through the car. I got through a lot of the main stuff but then the car started to consume coolant. Then one day it started to over heat. So i began my project. I decided that i wanted a street port from the gurus at pineapple racing. Got in touch with rob and sent the engine parts off. I'm building it my self, so it was very kind of him to do that for me. And for anyone who is curious. Those guys (Rob in particular) are really great guys and i would not hesitate to send anyone to them. I'm getting ready. My plans are as follows. I'm looking for a pretty quick spool, capacity for somewhere around 400whp but able to do 300 to 350. And something that will be great for track days. This is what i have collected so far.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/DSC_0391.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/DSC_0393.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/DSC_0392.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/DSC_0394.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/DSC_0395.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/DSC_0396.jpg So i'm doing all of this and i'm also rebuilding another friends fd engine. I'm doing the rebuild for the cost of the parts to rebuild my engine. A good deal for both parties. Just so all you guys know too i'm a mechanic so i know what i'm doing.... i think. Here's a picture of our cars. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/DSC_0050.jpg Wish me luck guys! --Hank |
good luck
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That's a great way to start! Don't rush things and it will turn out just the way you want it.
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niceeeee
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Looks good. Is that a BRAND NEW harness from mazda?
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what size is the hot side on your turbo?
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Thanks everyone! The hot side on this turbo is a .82. I didn't really want something much bigger than that because i'm not really interested in peak power. I'm mainly looking for something that has a quick spool and is capable of power a little higher than the max potential of the stock turbos. One advantage of the single conversion is lower under hood temps. That is a brand new harness from mazda too. I'm not sparing any expense with this set up. I have an ae86 corolla that i did a toyota ae111 20v engine swap to. I spent over 20k on that car and i love it. It is super clean and on an entirely factory 1.6 i made 145 to the rear wheels. I like doing things right and once. I chose the fd for my next car because in stock form it handles better than my heavy mod corolla and has much higher power potential. The ae86 is mass fun for autocross but track days and it leaves a lot to be desired. I'm looking at becoming a track whore with my fd. So i figured that this setup was the best way to go.
Engine parts so far goes as follows. New harness gt35r turbo hks 50mm wastegate hks bov 1680cc bosch injectors x2 siemens 640cc injectors x2 aeromotive rising rate fpr kg parts primary and seccondary rails power fc Greddy profec b spec 2 greddy elbow for utilization of water injection (which i plan to install after the tune so as that it is a safety feature and not a tune feature) I have a obx manifold but it is for a t04 and my turbo is a t3 flange so i'm not sure what i'm going to do about that. Rebuild parts for trans which i will probably start in the next week. Noltec engine mounts. Many other things to come Thanks for the support guys. I'm really excited to see what i can make with this setup. I'm even more excited to start rebuilding these two engines. I'll keep everyone up to date with lots of pictures. Thanks again! --Hank |
Nice parts, good luck mate! :)
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wtf.... is that a GT30R compressor housing??
ive never seen a GT35R with the anti-surge compressor housing (the ports around the housing of the compressor wheel) |
Nope its a 35r compressor housing. I think its listed on the garrett website. I guess the 35r has a tendency to surge. That comes from people who know more than me.
--Hank |
:score: man that black fd has to be the coolest car I have ever seen!
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:bluesuit:
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So lots of progress since i last posted in this thread. The black fd is done. Which is good. Mine has been really under the knife (and the gun as i have to be done before the 27th of july). So heres some pictures.
Empty engine bay. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_2951.jpg RE Amemiya sway bar reinforcement http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_2950.jpg My freshly rebuilt (BY ME) pineapple street port with exedy twin plate clutch http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3003.jpg A good transmission finally. Only 43k on it! http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3002.jpg Rotary aviation omp adapter and powdercoated front cover http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3007.jpg So pretty clutch http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3012.jpg Car shot http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3013.jpg Me putting on the oil pan and garfinkle oil pan brace http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3014.jpg Ready to go in http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3017.jpg |
Almost
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3020.jpg Even closer http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3060.jpg So nice to look at. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3061.jpg I have been told this is true (a friend wrote this) http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3062.jpg Some sweet gauges http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3063.jpg super sweet datalogit install http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3064.jpg useless knee warmer removed for something better http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3065.jpg fuel system madness http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3068.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3069.jpg Jdm upper intake manifold that i machined an opening into to allow heat to escape from http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3070.jpg |
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3071.jpg
fjo low impedance injector driver http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3072.jpg fjo wideband with ntk sensor http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3074.jpg koyo n flow http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3076.jpg tial 44mm black http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3073.jpg almost all of the metal to make my 3.5 to 3in downpipe and wastegate recirculation. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3075.jpg And lastly my next project for later this summer http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3077.jpg |
What kind of intercooler setup are you going to go with?
Any suspension work? |
hey that looks sick man, bythe way that mazda harness look very plain did you remove all the unnecesary connectors and pins?? i have my new engine harnes sitting there as well but im not to handy on electrical stuff i want to find someone that can perform the job for me.
nice car |
Looks good Hank. I like the machined upper intake. Clever idea.
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man I cant wait to see this thing done! Hank man you do awesome work! (owner of the black fd he built)
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Originally Posted by hsitko
(Post 6773893)
I have a obx manifold but it is for a t04 and my turbo is a t3 flange so i'm not sure what i'm going to do about that.
--Hank |
I already got a t3 manifold. I kind of like the idea of a t3 much better. That or one of those new tial v-band ones. Anyway the flange on the manifold is a divided t3 which should help throttle response and only effect hp on the top end by some small amount like 3 or 5. The whole exhaust isnt going to be 3.5 either, just about 1 or 2 feet of the downpipe immediately off of the turbo. This helps turbo response. The reason is, as the air from the turbo is being expelled into the downpipe it is spinning and very turbulent. The bigger the pipe directly off the turbo, the more the air will "straighten out" which will help your turbo respond better. I'm not looking for big max power here. I'm looking for response. That is why i went with a t3 with a .82 exhaust side. 1.06 with a divided t4? How much spool time do you loose in comparison. I guess we'll see.
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Originally Posted by 13bmaniac
(Post 8349439)
hey that looks sick man, bythe way that mazda harness look very plain did you remove all the unnecesary connectors and pins?? i have my new engine harnes sitting there as well but im not to handy on electrical stuff i want to find someone that can perform the job for me.
nice car |
Be careful when cutting off connectors. The idle speed control solenoid shares either a common power or ground (can't remember exactly) with something else. Hacking up the harness will cause it not to work.
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Originally Posted by Rotary Experiment Seven
(Post 8350206)
Be careful when cutting off connectors. The idle speed control solenoid shares either a common power or ground (can't remember exactly) with something else. Hacking up the harness will cause it not to work.
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Originally Posted by 88t2romad
(Post 8349429)
What kind of intercooler setup are you going to go with?
Any suspension work? |
:scratch:
Uhmm. Anyone else think his secondaries are far too large? Personally, I'm only going w/ the stock primaries and 1300 secondaries.. Also Water Injection which I see you are going to add also. And that's with the T4 divided 1.06 and a mild port. The Water Injection kit will take some load off your injectors too. Something to consider. , |
1600's are more reliable since they are not bored out.
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Yes they are. I have heard on several occasions that people have had 1300's fail. 1300's are a stock 850 bored out. They are not made to flow that kind of volume initially. Some people have had them stuck open or stuck shut. Hell i'll go so far as to say that i'm not a fan of rc injectors period. As for saying they are too big, well perhaps you arent familiar with tuning? The thing about injector sizing is, it all depends on how much boost you want to run. If you go bigger than 1300's there are other components that are required. I only wanted one project. Not a bunch of little ones. So if the time comes that i want to exceed 15psi, i will have the fuel system to do it. Then the only thing i'll have to add is an fjo water injection kit.
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Wow, wish I had friends like that :) Looks awesome, I would love to do what you're doing right now. Best of luck to you, not like you need it ;)
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Thanks man! I have had a lot of fun doing this so far. I'm kind of nervous/anxious to see what it does at the dyno.
--Hank |
Man, its been years since I've seen those HKS blow-off valves. Good luck on the project.
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Originally Posted by hsitko
(Post 8351731)
Yes they are. I have heard on several occasions that people have had 1300's fail. 1300's are a stock 850 bored out. They are not made to flow that kind of volume initially. Some people have had them stuck open or stuck shut. Hell i'll go so far as to say that i'm not a fan of rc injectors period. As for saying they are too big, well perhaps you arent familiar with tuning? The thing about injector sizing is, it all depends on how much boost you want to run. If you go bigger than 1300's there are other components that are required. I only wanted one project. Not a bunch of little ones. So if the time comes that i want to exceed 15psi, i will have the fuel system to do it. Then the only thing i'll have to add is an fjo water injection kit.
Mine is going to be a primarily street driven car personally.. Not sure about yours. I have confidence in the 1300's, especially with Water Injection. |
1680 Secondaries and 640 primaries: 1680-640 = 1040
vs 1300 Secondaries and 550 primaries: 1300-550 = 750 I'm no tuner but that's what I was told to take into consideration and compare. You won't overwork those 1300's with Water Injection. . |
Originally Posted by Wild7
(Post 8354731)
Chances are you won't run as smooth with 1600's on the street as you would with 1300's.
Mine is going to be a primarily street driven car personally.. Not sure about yours. I have confidence in the 1300's, especially with Water Injection.
Originally Posted by Wild7
(Post 8354752)
1680 Secondaries and 640 primaries: 1680-640 = 1040
vs 1300 Secondaries and 550 primaries: 1300-550 = 750 I'm no tuner but that's what I was told to take into consideration and compare. You won't overwork those 1300's with Water Injection. . |
Originally Posted by silentblu
(Post 8354773)
your secondary injectors are not always running, your primaries are the ones that are on at idle and lower RPMs IIRC
not sure what that means, but what does that have to do with anything?? Am I getting bad info lol?? My installers explained how he's driven cars with large injectors like those and the car ran like crap. When he spoke with the people who built the car they said it was because of the port and large injectors.. and well, it was what it was; wasn't going to change or get any better. . |
larger primary injectors are what makes it run/idle like crap, i don't think your secondaries have as much to do with it as they come online later
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Originally Posted by Wild7
(Post 8354792)
It's what was explained to me like I said.. Harder to tune the transition apparently the larger the gap difference is..
Am I getting bad info lol?? My installers explained how he's driven cars with large injectors like those and the car ran like crap. When he spoke with the people who built the car they said it was because of the port and large injectors.. and well, it was what it was; wasn't going to change or get any better. . So yes your getting bad info!:scratch: |
Oh man wild7 you really dont get it do you. There are tons of things to take into account when talking about how streetable an injector set up will be. Seimens injectors are known to have one of the best spray patterns for injectors currently on the market. Guess what has a pretty large effect on idle? You got it. Spray pattern. So take that into concideration. The closest size to the stock 550's that seimens makes is the 640's. Not a huge difference. You wont idle like crap with 1600's because they are not being used at idle. So tune the fuel maps correctly and those 640's should idle just fine. Fuel pressure also has something to do with it. As does how your engine is ported. I'm not making any mistakes with how i'm choosing my parts. I'm a technician and have tuned efi systems before. I have a standalone ae86 with a toyota 20v in it that i drive every day for the last two years. You can run water/alcohol injection. Thats fine. Its a great idea. I dont want to. I already am going to have to add 2 stroke oil on a regular basis. I dont want to have to add washer fluid, gas, oil and alcohol. Thats just too friggin much for me. That and i dont think i'm going to be running over 15 psi. 1600's have been done tons of times by tons of people including howard coleman, whom i have the utomost respect and admiration for. If he can tune a smooth transition with them it is definitely possible. Back up and stop clogging my build thread with nonsense. No disrespect.
--Hank |
one thing i know from experience , the combo 550cc(stock) and 1600cc although a bit on the edge , it can support up to 20 psi
i have done this in the past , and idle was still great to be safer i would bump it to 850 and 1600 my thinking .....you can never have too much fuel |
What you guys dont relize is that FJO driver he put in is going to make those injectors work better than the stock injectors even at those sizes. I dont see him having a problem with getting it to idle and drive smoothly....Putting resistors compared to putting the FJO driver is like running a Apex-i A/F controller piggyback compared to a PFC... TOTALLY different.
Chris |
Originally Posted by felix_is_alive
(Post 8363543)
one thing i know from experience , the combo 550cc(stock) and 1600cc although a bit on the edge , it can support up to 20 psi
i have done this in the past , and idle was still great to be safer i would bump it to 850 and 1600 my thinking .....you can never have too much fuel
Originally Posted by twomucboost4u
(Post 8363626)
What you guys dont relize is that FJO driver he put in is going to make those injectors work better than the stock injectors even at those sizes. I dont see him having a problem with getting it to idle and drive smoothly....Putting resistors compared to putting the FJO driver is like running a Apex-i A/F controller piggyback compared to a PFC... TOTALLY different.
Chris --Hank |
Originally Posted by hsitko
(Post 8363467)
Oh man wild7 you really dont get it do you. Back up and stop clogging my build thread with nonsense. No disrespect.
--Hank People know more then others about certain things and I never claimed to know much about this topic; just what I heard and was trying to be helpful or as you would call it "clogging your build thread". I feel like saying more but I'll bite my tongue. |
Sorry to be an ass about it. I'm an asshole, its true. A bad guy. I have a low tolerance threshold for ignorance and stupidity. And i hold it back for no one, including you. Please feel free to say my name in vain, and other such horrible things. I likely deserve it. I will die for your sins.
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Ok, so after some nonsense, heres some more pictures of progress. I have finished making my downpipe and a battery tray for a honda optima.
Some pictures of the battery tray. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3083.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3100.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3099.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3098.jpg And some of the downpipe http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3084.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3085.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3086.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3087.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3088.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMG_3092.jpg |
Just curious why you went 3-4-3 inch on the exhaust?
Chris |
Originally Posted by hsitko
(Post 8350177)
I already got a t3 manifold. I kind of like the idea of a t3 much better. That or one of those new tial v-band ones. Anyway the flange on the manifold is a divided t3 which should help throttle response and only effect hp on the top end by some small amount like 3 or 5. The whole exhaust isnt going to be 3.5 either, just about 1 or 2 feet of the downpipe immediately off of the turbo. This helps turbo response. The reason is, as the air from the turbo is being expelled into the downpipe it is spinning and very turbulent. The bigger the pipe directly off the turbo, the more the air will "straighten out" which will help your turbo respond better. I'm not looking for big max power here. I'm looking for response. That is why i went with a t3 with a .82 exhaust side. 1.06 with a divided t4? How much spool time do you loose in comparison. I guess we'll see.
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