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Full Function Eng fuel setup
as someone who has fixtured a number of fuel rail hoses, i do not look forward to attaching PTFE fittings. regular stainless braided hoses are not much of a problem. i even called Kool Tools to see if they had some sort of tool to ease the PTFE pain. no.
so when i was cruising the FFE site and bumped into barbed fittings and a particular hose that is good for 300 psi and happy with all fuels it got my attention. i have a (very) high regard for the risk of incinerating my FD. or worse, a customer's FD. 43.5 or 58 psi behind a fuel leak is serious business. i called FFE to discuss this. i was thinking that it would be highly unlikely that the hose would be a problem, rather the barb hose connection. Ryan checked w Aaron and said they have done hundreds of these installs w zero problems. i do have this hosing and barbed connections leading to my breather tank. there's no way i could pull it off the barb. i also dislike working around typical stranded SS lines. there certainly is a place for braided lines... number one place would be the fuel feed line to the motor from the tank. i will probably put some sort of DEI cover on the hoses. i will be buying the proper tool that installs an Oetiker clamp over the hose. (see next post) this setup changes a PITA job into something that can be accomplished in under an hour. as you can see, FFE has a nice kit that includes the special hose. sign me up. comments? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a0cdc2c3d0.png https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...656bf10321.png |
to properly complete the job.... from my go to road racing site for 50 years... beloved Pegasus Auto Racing... the real deal.
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Push lock is fine. We use it for oil lines only though. The issue with it is the bend radius and the overall footprint. It's MASSIVE compared to AN or even regular 5/16 hose. Also, depending on the brand of hose, the clamps are actually optional per the manufacturer. The way the hose works, as you've discovered, the more you try to remove it the tighter it grabs. Not all have this feature though.
Ptfe we don't bother with outside of making power steering lines and E85. Ptfe also has a not so great bend radius and is annoying to assemble. Technically, regular fuel line and a clamp is all any of us need. The pressure rating for that vs AN, ptfe or push lock, is well within the bounds of the vast majority of our fuel systems. It just doesn't look as cool lol |
" It's MASSIVE compared to" it doesn't look particularly larger than the usual Dash 6.
" doesn't look as cool" bingo. i will add some sort of cover.... maybe we should do a stainless braided image on the cover. |
What PTFE line have you been using? I've never had a problem.
Vibrant PTFE is fairly inexpensive and goes together pretty easy if you do it correctly. Earls Ultra Pro polyester braided line is so easy, it's comical. Ony tools you need are sharp scissors and a razor blade! It so flexable it doesn't seem possible. You could tie it in a knot and it wouldn't kink. It's super nice! Been using it for years on all fuel lines in the engine bay and the coolant system. Fir oil, mocal nylon braided line is super easy to work with, flexable and the price is right. Very nice fittings and hose. Probably easiest rubber an hose to put together and high quality. |
Massive in reference to its overall footprint due to its limited bend radius
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I'd definitely rather that than dodgy threaded aluminium clamping braid over rubber or PTFE.
My personal opinion is good quality rubber lines and barb fittings or straight to hydraulic swaged lines with stainless end fittings or swagelok stainless lines. |
I love FFE products.
My introduction was buying Pineapple water pump idler pulley and FFE idler pulley and comparing to see which I wanted to use. I just bought/installed FFE light fuel rails and oil filter pedastal. Such good quality. Nice engineering in rails/stays and the rails are crazy light. With the tiny delicate ID injectors its like... wow... no comparison to stock or even old denso top feed chonkers. Unlike say Radium, all the bores, threads and edges are deburred before anodizing so you wont cut/split o-rings or have to remove fuel proofing anodizing to debur. The FFE full fuel kit didnt appeal to me because I wanted parallel rails and also I couldnt find info on their fittings and hose. As you may know most push lock hose rated for e85 and all fuel/additives has 20-50% life expectancy compared to with straight gasoline. Its in the manufacturer literature if you read it. But I found Earls (Holley) Vapor Guard hose was rated 100% life expectancy with e85 and all fuels/additives (though they do have special vapor guard hose for full immersion). I will use Vapor Guard system. Earls Vapor Guard system includes double sided or single sided Oetiker clamps as well as euro style fuel injection tab & screw hose clamps. I like that in a pinch hardware/auto parts store stuff can be used. (Handy on road trips and racing). Few places have full -an selection. I did all -an stuff on my old race car for a 15yrs and Im over it. |
my friends and i have been using the push lock hoses for the oil coolers in the race cars for almost 20 years now, with zero issues
(with the Hondas it was probably the only thing we didn't break) the last time i went to replace an oil cooler hose, i went to the big truck store, and they sold me some Parker Hannifin stuff, which is apparently what the trucks are using. they have it in huge rolls, its cheap too. https://www.parker.com/us/en/home.html |
I was going to make a new thread regarding my fuel system in a new thread for people to comment on. Going to try and build a little model picture with the parts and fitting for everyone to look at. I was going to use Fuelab hose and fittings, but it seems that everyone has a preference.
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