Fc build advice before purchases.
 

I've had many projects and would like to start this one right from the start so I don't waste $ on things I don't need. I want to do a rx7 fc for sure with 400-500hp, not sure what year or motor yet.. because..I have some questions before I pull the trigger.
​​​​ * Like, with a Haltech 1000-2000 +terminated harness, does it pretty much replace the whole stock wiring harness, so I could go from a 87 NA car to using a 13b gtr OR rew??
​​​​​​​*if the ecu and wiring is all replaced anyway shouldn't I just start with an NA, pass smog, then drop in a s5 or fd rew motor? Or just start with the s5?
​​​​​​ * is micro tech worth getting for 500$ less? (Probably not)
*do most of these aftermarket ecu's replace the harnesses for under $2k?
*Can I run water/meth injection with these aftermarket ecu's?
* for 400hp is the s5 motor decent or should I pay up for the rew? I know the rew can handle more and is more reinforced. But if I rebuild the gtr s5 motor frequently and add dowels is it good for the 400?
* how about 495hp? Same questions as above​​​​. With meth. And a Borg Warner s366 or so.
that's what I got for now. ive read up on the topics, just want to know what think for my specific needs.

Generally most people are using a fly lead harness for an install like this( where you terminated the ends of the harness yourself). Especially if you are doing an engine swap. 13BT can handle those power goals without breaking. The engines are technically weaker in the dowel areas, but its only detonation that makes them crack. Ive made 600+rwhp on a few 13BT engines with no real modifications. You can add our 10mm stud kit, and solid dowels( with loop line mod) and it will be plenty strong for those power goals. Water methanol is usually its seperate own system, I advise using an ecu with lean out protection if using water/meth injection( incase of a failure engine will see motor going lean).

Ok thanks turblown. I know that the haltech elite 1000/1500 has terminated haness and flying lead. I'm guessing they have lean out protection, at least on the newer 1500. I dont know much about the differences between elite 1000 and 1500. Butt one difference was the 1000 has single level engine protection and the 1500 has multi level engine protection. Not sure what it does tho.

The factory NA motors had glass gearboxes and different differential. You would be better off buying a turbo chassis with a blown motor than an NA.

Fabricate or buy a replacement/reinforcement for the mount on the front of the diff and rear steer delete bushes. Don't put fuel system components in the cabin unless you make a very good firewall or want to be a BBQ. there are drop in fuel pump/hangar surge tanks or under car options.

Look up built to apex

I'm going to try to get this stock NA saturday. I need a running one, not a blown one to pass smog. Then change it all. I found some decent prices REW motors with transmissions.. Then I willlupgrade to the 8" diff and better brakes etc.
I'll look into the rear steer BS never heard of that. Thanks.