RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum (https://www.rx7club.com/)
-   Single Turbo RX-7's (https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/)
-   -   Emissions / solenoid removal? (https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/emissions-solenoid-removal-36497/)

Chris Wilson 12-03-01 03:42 PM

Emissions / solenoid removal?
 
Going single turbo on FD3S. Engine out for rebuild, going to run Motec M4 pro. Can I bin all the under manifold solenoids?
What about stuff on the throttle body, have removed the secondary throttle plates and shaft already, but what about the idle speed increase thing operated off the small water hose? Can that go? Car need not pass any emissions tests. Whats the other large conntrol solenoid in this area, an idle speed control valve?

I have already removed and blanked off the secondary air injection stuff, as well as the air pump itself (and PAS, ABS, blah blah). What about the deceleration control dashpot, can that go? I will accept a less than stock warm up routine and a higher than stock idle. I am liking the uncluttered look, but don't want to remove something that others have found to be better left in place ;)

I'd love to chat with anyone who is running the Motec, I'd like some moral support!

Thanks.

SPOautos 12-03-01 04:51 PM

If I'm not misstaken you should be able to remove everything but the last solenoid. I know for sure you need that one as its connected to the fuel regualtor. I'm not looking at anything but if memory serves me right all the other solenoids are for the sequential sys and emissions.

Good luck,
STEPHEN

MOSTIN 12-03-01 08:42 PM

Please keep this subject going I will like to know myself. What do you do with all the connectors where a solenoid was connected?

spyfish007 12-03-01 11:14 PM


Originally posted by MOSTIN
Please keep this subject going I will like to know myself. What do you do with all the connectors where a solenoid was connected?
Well if single turbo and Motec then you can eliminate the solenoid rack, 2 solenoids hanging from upper intake manifold, 1 solenoid on ACV along with the other junk you mentioned. Just leave all of the connectors hanging there because they are not needed and they will only show error code on stock ECU and I have no idea why you would piggy back the stock ECU if don't care about emisions.

Keep the IAC valve that you mentioned in your earlier post. It should be controlled by Motec. (? because I have never run Motec.) Keep the coolant and fast idle cam on the throttle body along with dec pot. There is no real reason to drop these and they will just make driving a little more interesting.

I assume you have boost control taken care of elsewhere and that you have block off plates for everything. (if not PM and I'll get you some) You should also have some sort of upgraded fuel pressure regulator and all the other goodies.

You will now have a naked engine bay and you will be able to see straight through the intake manifold. Good luck.

MOSTIN 12-04-01 03:17 PM

I eleminated some of the solenoids already and left some of the connectors hanging and the engine would not pass 3k RPM so I just reconnect the solenoid.

Can you send me some pics of a naked engine bay with a single turbo?

MOSTIN 12-04-01 03:27 PM

I eleminated some of the solenoids already and left some of the connectors hanging and the engine would not pass 3k RPM so I just reconnect the solenoid.

Can you send me some pics of a naked engine bay with a single turbo?

Chris Wilson 12-04-01 04:02 PM


Originally posted by MOSTIN
I eleminated some of the solenoids already and left some of the connectors hanging and the engine would not pass 3k RPM so I just reconnect the solenoid.

Can you send me some pics of a naked engine bay with a single turbo?

In my case, running a Motec ECU means I will be binning the stock engine wiring loom, so I can do a clean install, but if you are keeping the stock ECU I believe you need to put a 330 ohm half watt resistor across the terminals that no longer have solenoids on them to make the ecu think they are still present. MAYBE this applies to the Power FC, too, but I am not sure with that one.

No pics, sorry, but hopefully I can oblige in the not so distant future. Thanks for the replies everyone.

Mr. Stock 08-24-02 06:46 AM


Originally posted by Chris Wilson
but if you are keeping the stock ECU I believe you need to put a 330 ohm half watt resistor across the terminals that no longer have solenoids on them to make the ecu think they are still present. MAYBE this applies to the Power FC, too, but I am not sure with that one.
I would guess that without the resistors, the Power FC would give error codes.
Can anyone confirm this about the Power FC?

Ed

PS Sorry to dig up an old thread but I did use the search function
:)

twokrx7 08-24-02 09:17 AM

You do not need to use resistors for the unused solenoids with the PowerFC.

Jetlag 08-24-02 03:03 PM

What does the last solenoid do? Does it control the amount of boost/vacume that the presure reg needs? I have eliminated that and the car seems to run fine. Although, I have not run more than 5psi :p:

Wargasm 08-24-02 03:55 PM

Ditch the solenoid for the FPR, you don't need it. I run 14 PSI on a T04S with good results... It's just for hot starts and stuff.

Brian


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:37 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands