EGT sensor in 02 sensor bung?
 

I wasn't sure where to put this, but was wondering if there was an adapter or something of the sort to use an EGT sensor on the 02 bung. The downpipe I bought has 2 of the larger 02 sensor bungs. I usually used the spare for the wideband when I had it hooked up, but not I need to get some EGT readings and don't want to have to pull the downpipe off and put another hole in it.

Would this not work due to the sensor not being able to go into the downpipe far enough with an adapter?

If it works, can someone point me in the direction of an adapter?

the egt probes are pretty long so even with an adapter it will be fine, ideally for tuning purposes the egt sensors should be pre turbo. If you want to put it in the downpipe i would just use the clamp on style egt probe that way all you have to do is drill a hole and insert the egt probe. no need to remove the downpipe. here is a link to a place that sells excellent egt equipment. http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDet...pID=&BasketID=

I do not see a point in a post turbo EGT. I mean it tells you if it's cool to turn your car off and if your turbo is using heat to spin itself. but it doesn't tell you how hot your rotors are...

I see, I was just worried due to my turbo being redhot from merely cruising on the highway out of boost. Wasn't sure if it was a boost leak, exhaust leak, other...but wanted to see how hot it actually was getting.

invest in a dual egt setup to monitor egt of each rotor, pineapple racing has an analog gauge and koso makes a really nice digital setup. the turbo will glow red if you've been driving it for a while under boost, exhaust leak or boost leak wont cause that. your timing may be off a bit which can cause the fuel mixture to ignite a bit in the manifold/turbo..get your timing checked out

^I'm waiting for my tuner to get some free time to check the timing and the tune maps.

I remember with my SSACrap manifold I had awhile back would glow red just from cruising after it ended up getting cracks...I thought that's what I was getting at..I guess I'll just drop the idea of the egt until I get my new turbo setup then I'll tap the dual setup into my manifold.

EGT gauges are used for trimming fuel while cruising (no load), thus keeping the exhaust temp at a certain range 1350 / 75 to prevent excessive heat and collapsing any springs.

On the other hand, a wideband is used for load tuning and on a rotary 11.2 - 11.5 is o.k. (18 psi and lower) with conservative timing… anything above 18 psi, I run 10.8.

Any, enrichment lower than 10.8 is just too excessive and can eventually carbonize the motor over time. Place both sensors 20 inches down stream after the turbo and you should be fine.

Andre

...can anyone tell me a good warning point for the EGT?

I have a defi gauge, and still in tuning my fresh build single rx-7. i have adjusted the warning point/buzzer at 900 degree celsius/1650 degree fahrenheit, but perhaps its too low, as the buzzer sounds every time i hit the throttle and reach 4000 rpm...*lol*

...but i am a little scared to set it much higher as i have read temps should be far from 1900 deg fahrenheit, where the seals can break cause if excessive heat...

...so, any advise desirable. :)

If you don't put the EGT per turbo (1 for each rotor) you get a blended reading, which is not good. More specifically on the REW engine, the front rotor usually runs at a different temp than the rear at different boost levels. I can't remember if its this way for vice-versa, but for example, under partial boost you may run lean on the rear and a little rich on the front, so you think the reading of a post turbo egt (which is taking the average) is fine. And then pop, broken engine even though you're egt was ok. With pre turbo egt's for each rotor, you can tune around this and even them out.

When running high boost this is a very good precautionary measure to take. This is caused by many things, intake runners being slightly different, porting being different on each rotor, and we all know when doing a compression test that they don't always match, so this all needs to be compensated for.

take the time and do it pre-turbo

...i did not use EGT to tune high boost/load, i use it for adjust a/f in idle and as an security feature. But as the EGT measures every temp. at every time during driving, i need to set a point where the warning lamp should come on.

i know the problem between the rotors, but the EGT measured in the joining point will give an aproximately advice.

As security option, optimal temperatures are around 871 degree celsius (aprox. 1600 deg f.). So i expect a bit over 900 degree celsius will be ok, and not hurt the rotor seals...?