Ptrhahn, my turbine housing hopelessly stuck too. I tried several different approaches. Nothing was working. You must be very careful if your going to try and hammer it off. The housing will cock and bind the fins on the turbine wheel; possibly bending them. What finally worked was using the housing bolts as jack bolts. I cut a few lengths of 5/16" diameter rod to use as a spacer to reach the other side of the center housing. One of the bolts, I used a piece of flat stock against a coolant boss. Since there are 5 bolts, you'll have to pick the best 3 so you can push it off evenly. Be very careful, spin the turbine wheel every time you turn a flat on the bolts to make sure your not binding the wheel. It's a little cumbersome and you have to fiddle around to keep the jack rods in place, but it works and doesn't leave elephant prints all over your housing from a BFH. Good luck with it.

I forgot to mention, I only had one summer and roughly 2500 miles on the turbo. And as I stated above, it was hopelessly stuck. I think I'm going to try some Cop-Graf anti seize lubricant on the housing and bolts. It's rated to 1800°. I work in a steel mill and they use this stuff on the coke oven door bolts. The doors get red hot. The guys that that take the bolts off say it's stays intact.

Thanks. I'm not going to mess with it and risk hurting the turbo. I'll send it someplace.

UPDATE:

I got the turbo apart, and the whole shebang reinstalled and leak free. I haven't, however been able to find enough space/lack of traffic to open it up past 6k in 4th. At 6k, it's showing about 12 psi.

It appears the spool may be hurt a bit, or at least it may need more preload on the canister (I'm at zero) to prevent the door from cracking open (maybe there's more pressure on it now). I'd also swear the car is louder now, but maybe not.

As soon as I can find a quiet moment out on the roads, I'll know for sure—but the boost is steadily climbing at that 6k/12psi mark, so I'm not necessarily optimistic.

The pattern is, if you watch the trace you can see it crack at about 8 psi like it's supposed to, then there's a flat spot for a while, and then it'll start to climb in higher RPM. All will be revealed soon, and then I need to figure out how to get the PFC boost control working.

If it doesn't do much for the top-end boost creep, I'm inclined to go back to the unported housing and live with it.

Quick update

I ported my turbine housing, see post 137. I've been driving it easy to break in a fresh rebuild. After roughly 400 miles, I figured I might as well give it a go. I did three 3rd gear pulls. I wasn't logging; just watching the gauge. I ran it up to redline. It never went above 18 psi. Considering it was creeping to 24 on a regular basis and peaking at 26 on cooler days, I am going to say the porting was very beneficial. Once I get a little more time on the motor I'll do some logs to see if it was hitting 18 right away or creeping up to it.

I am tuning my 8374 IWG 3.5" downpipe with 3" midpipe back. I am able to hold about 12PSI with the medium wastegate canister.


I do notice that with a richer tune the car wants to boost more than say a little leaner. car is making great power. I am also running water/meth.

I think I'm in business. 12psi. Spun it to 6500 in 4th, wasn't really creeping. It's 12 all the way to 7500 in lower gears

I'm going to put some preload back on it and then if that holds I'll try electronic boost control

OK, so at 3 turns of pre-load, I'm at the same peak boost (12 psi), but spool isn't much affected. I need to get the electronic boot control working now to see if it can be helped.

That sounds like good news. What did you end up doing to it?

See post #142... ported wategate, divider removed, and T4 divider removed in area of wategate. I'm actually using an undivided T4 gasket now.

It does seem to have hurt the spool a bit though, so hoping electronic boost control can help.

Right on!

Now you can try a 3.5" downpipe/midpipe to get the spool back and start all over again trying to take the boost creep out LOL. (Exhaust restriction is all a relative term...):lol:

But seriously glad you seem to have licked the boost creep the way you wanted to do it (fixed it with no exhaust restriction besides the little 3" exhaust).

:nod::icon_tup:

Well I guess I'm done till I get an external boost controller.

For whatever reason, the PFC boost control isn't doing anything, see here:
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...-900599/page3/

I hooked up the Adaptronic, which Dave also tuned supposedly, but couldn't get it to idle cleanly (NBD for at least testing boost control), but despite having not touched anything in a couple months since I last used it, WARI no longer recognizes the ECU, so I can't tell what the fuck is going on.

I downloaded Eugene, which opened right up, and recognized the ECU (didn't even need a basemap loaded), but I've no idea if it's running the map Dave tuned, or what. It doesn't look like the boost control is set up, and it certainly didn't seem to work on the quick test I ran, so who knows. Windows computers absolutely blow, I can't believe there aren't angry hoardes of people regularly forced to use them burning down microsoft headquarters.

It didn't really look exactly like the video shows, nor could I get the live gauges to work as directed.

Here's pic of the boost control screen (upside down of course):

Update:

I found one of the boost solonoid pigtail wires was cut so I resoldered the whole thing. I don't know what happened there. Shitty wire.

Put the PFC back in, and now boost is uncontrollable. Even set at .80 and the lowest duty (20%) it just keeps rolling past 15 psi.

Not sure what to say now.

These cars will drive you crazy sometimes no doubt. I've been sorting through running issues on my BB '95 lately so I know how you feel Pete......

When you download Eugene, the ecu will not recognize Wari any longer. Both need to be uninstalled and reinstall Wari. I don't know enough about Eugene to know which ecu file you were using once you updated but I didn't think it was safe to run on vehicles yet.

You guys are legit speaking Greek to this PFC dude :rofl:

Yeah. Adaptronic really needs to state that on it's Web site MUCH more clearly. And maybe not offer it as the first choice above the software that actually works.

It says "shouldn't be used for tuning"... but if you can't RUN a car on it, why is it offered at all?! And why wouldn't you state that it'll hose up the program that WILL run a car. Now I've no idea what it's done, or whether or not the map on the ECU that Dave tuned is still there or overwritten (I don't have another copy of it, and who knows where Dave is). It still didn't run right because Dave couldn't get it to idle... and it starts too hard (almost like the old accelerated warm up system).

I watched the video on the new live gauges feature, and thought, "great, maybe this is finally usable". I took the Adaptronic off the car last fall amidst road tuning and decided to take the car to Speed1 and have the PFC tuned because my coolant cap sprung a leak and nearly overheated the car—without the PFC Commander, which I've always used for a water temp gauge, I didn't see it coming (the tiny little window on the laptop isn't really viewable while driving). LUCKILY I was trying out a vented hood so I saw the spray come out on the windshield. Otherwise, my motor would have been toast. I've since removed the hood. Bottom line, the thing needs a commander-like device for simple viewing of gauges and fiddling with basic settings without using a laptop or some expensive race dash and/or convoluted bluetooth/android/app setup. And they need to think a little harder about what they offer up for download.

I remember when I first got the Adaptronic and installed it and began running it—I downloaded the new firmware (14), and it had some new setting checked that just randomly disabled the car while i was driving and nearly stranded me in the middle of the highway. After that was fixed, I drove around with a box with the PFC and tools to swap it in sitting in the car, because I just didn't trust that it wasn't going to get weird again.

Nevermind the fact that, Eugene's live gauges setup doesn't actually look/work like the video yet, as the features have been disabled, so it was completely pointless in the first place. I'd intended to just sell the Adaptronic, but figured I'd try it as a test since I had it laying around. Every time I use it, and/or a Windows laptop (which it necessitates), I want to strangle small woodland animals.

Anyway, rant off, but that's ridiculous.

Talked with Fritz this AM, and he's going to send me a manual boost controller.

If that will spool the turbo up like the electronic does, and keep it at 15 psi, I'll be fine with that. I'll just screw it down a little bit at the track.

Curious, are you controlling boost off the PFC straight, or via the added boost controller kit?

All the "kit" is, AFAIK, is a solonoid, which the EFR already has, and it was wired to the "boost control" wiring supplied in the Rywire harness.

Hi Peter,

Based on reading about your troubles it just sounds like you need some better support. So When you have time this week I will be happy to teamviewer into your PC and and make sure the Adaptronic ECU is setup correctly for you. Give me a call when you are free. 763-753-9939.

Thanks,
Shawn Christenson

Thanks Shawn, I appreciate it!

If I decide to put the Adaptronic back in and reconfigure my laptop, I'll give you a buzz.

P

I know it's a different set up but when I went single I couldn't control boost with my greddy profec anymore, turns out I had to re plumb the solenoid since it differed between external and internal wastegates.

I can't imagine that's an issue, because the solonoid is made for (and comes with) the EFR, and I've reversed the wires.

I hooked it up like all of the pictures show, but it doesn't take long to reverse the hoses I guess.

Manual boost controller should tell all.