rx7 store gt35r turbo kit install for newbs help
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rx7 store gt35r turbo kit install for newbs help
since I cant find any answers or pictures of the install or have any questions really answered i decided to post some install pix with the engine out. Keep in mind I am a newb when it comes to rotary or even turbos at that. I am used to building v8 pushrods. So here are a few pix I took of my progress. I also installed a fuel system that I also got from the rx7 store. Keep in mind if you do the install by yourself you will have to adjust the hotside to fit the dimensions of the lines ..at least i had too. Anyways i just need opinions if i am doing it correctly. I dont need to hear people telling me to take to a specialist ... I wanted to see how everything works and give it a shot myself. I wanst sure about the oil lines and how they are routed so i guessed on pretty much everything. I also wanted to post this to help other newbs like me installing a single turbo...i am looking for honest opinions and critisizm..thx:
Last edited by kru510; 06-17-09 at 08:29 PM.
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the only major thing i noticed was that you DEFINITELY need to re-clock the turbo. Loosen all of the bolts that attach the turbine housing to the CHRA and rotate the center section so that the oil inlet is no more than 5 degrees from vertical (12 o'clock) and the oil drain should be no more than 5 degrees from 6 o'clock.
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that is what i was thinking also but the manifold sent to me is a megan racing manifold that actually blocks the center section from going any further down..maybe someone can chime in on similar results with the megan racing manifold
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if youre not keeping your AWS (accelerated warmup ) then get rid of the coolant line running from the thermostat housing to the rear plate. Its not needed and will be one less area for leaks to devlop.
Also run your vacuum lines to the oil injectors Before securing your fuel rail, as it hard to do after it tightened down
Also run your vacuum lines to the oil injectors Before securing your fuel rail, as it hard to do after it tightened down
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I would reccomend a fuel resistant sealant compuound but not thread tape.. just like on your oil cooling lines to the turbo, thread tape can sometime have particles fall off and block the oil passages... ruining the turbo without proper lube... in this case it make clog up your injectors or what not??? Just my thoughts
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The AWS is working with a solenoid valve. you mean the wax rod to get rid off?it is two independent systems i think. the one raises the revs to 3k at cold start and the other is raising a bit the idle when cold.the AWS is not needed.
the wax rod ??
the wax rod ??
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I would reccomend a fuel resistant sealant compuound but not thread tape.. just like on your oil cooling lines to the turbo, thread tape can sometime have particles fall off and block the oil passages... ruining the turbo without proper lube... in this case it make clog up your injectors or what not??? Just my thoughts
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A little bit of anti-seize is good on the npt threads when you are doing aluminum fittings in an aluminum rail. The threads can gall and stick pretty easy, so you think you have it tight when in reality it isn't sealing yet (I know this from experience).
Also it looks like your oil drain hose is actually resting on your manifold? I'd try and get an air gap in there somehow.
-Andy
Also it looks like your oil drain hose is actually resting on your manifold? I'd try and get an air gap in there somehow.
-Andy
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updated pix
so i took the advice from everybody ..i re clocked the turbo as much as a could to 12:00 ..as you can see from the pix..then redid my oil lines so they are not resting on the lim...and i am shopping for some new braided oil metering lines..opinions pls..thx
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But here's details on my GT35R car: 7-UP CLUB HOME PAGE
Regards,
Crispy
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