Bridge ported ONLY !!!.
 

O.k. so now that I have everyones attention ,tell me what you think , I had my engine bridged on the secondarys and have noticed an increase in the amount of fuel required to start the ( the engine hasn't actually started but when the fuel is increased it responds better and " almost " starts ) , because of this the plugs are constantly fouling .
The engine was rebuilt with all new internal parts , so the compression is good , i am being told that I need touse HOt plugs to get it started , is this true , has anyone else experienced this problem ? , I am thinking about getting one or two MSD's and installing them on the lead plugs ? .:( :mad:

Just through in some stock plugs 7s or 9s to get is started.. But i wouldn't boost with those plugs..


-Zach

u mean all bridged cars have to switch plugs just to get it started?

No.. But if the engine has never ran. it will be hard to start.. SO you use a hotter plug to get it going for a while..


-Zach

the hardcore racers back in the day used to do that, because the really cold plugs will foul out. so they warm it up with stock plugs, and then switch. i dunno if they still do that though

mike

Yeah, they still do that when NGK raceplugs are ~7-12/each...


-Zach

I was told to get the NGK-B8EM ? .

Not sure abou tthe b8em, but i have seen the b8ev or b8evq


And * is NOT a cold plug.. 10-10.5 i would consider cold..


Stock it runs BUR7EQ and BUR9EQ

-Zach

try some B7ES plugs in it just to get the thing to start

did you crank the engine over for a while without the plugs in it to clean all the assembly oil out of it before trying to start it????
if not just try a new set of plugs.the idle fuel will need to be richened up for the bridge but not a great amount.the engine should still start & run with the same fuel map as you had with the previous engine.
if the new plugs don't fix it try towing the car down the road in 2nd gear...this will get it to start for sure.once it starts for the first time it will be fine

O.K. I'll try all of the above and let you guys know , thanks.

My Mazda starting kit consists of a tow rope and a '97 F-350 with a 7.3L powerstroke turbo diesel. Almost always starts the most troublesome rotary. I can sell you a kit if you'd like ;).
Don.

I just got my bridgeport running a few weeks ago. One of the people that had built many before said that it would probably have to be push started at first untill the seals seated and created more compression. Actually he was bragging that all his motors were "turn key" motors, meaning started with the starter. Well turns out mine also was a "turn key" motor, hehe. But I would'nt have been suprised if I had to get it rolling to start it at first. Just push it and be done with it. As for plugs, 10.5s the whole time.

There sounds like there is allot of guys Overseas using "softer" seals to bed in on worn housings ?

Jon (RXeng) is pretty spot on with the fuel tip. Starting by towing in second is a "new" method :D Never had to resort to that one ! :p:

I use b7em for the street, they are great never fowl and work a treat! but i only run 14psi max on pump fuel with a 66-1

The towing thing is for engines that have almost no compression at all.Not always from seal & housing problems but from an engine that gets flooded real bad(i've seen a series 3 with the engine full,manifold full & fuel overflowing out the top of the carb).
When this happens the fuel washes the cylinder walls down & compression is damn near zero.The only way you can get it started is to tow it.Once it's started & run for a few minutes everything is fine & will start straight off the key after that

O.K . I got hth B8EM plugs today , so after work (tomorrow morning at 7 :00am) I,ll try again ! , thanks again guys .

Today I tried the new plugs with the same result ! , the FUCKIN' plugs are coming out wet wit gas and the engine "almost " starts , I am so fed up !!!! , .
I will double check the compression and install a MSD 6A on the leading plugs and see what gives , later.

yes if the motor is new put in some 7's to get it going and broke in. i am running full bridge and 11's. when the car is cold i use the fuel pump switch to keep it from fouling. toggle the switch just to let some fuel get in there but turn the pump back off so it doesnt keep pumping fuel in there. also turn the car over a little with the pump off to kinda warm up the plugs.

Marcell, please take out all the plugs & wind the motor over with the throttle wide open for 10 seconds, this will purge out all the crap (fuel & building lube), blow dry the plugs with a compressor.

Reinstall the dry plugs, and try to start it using about 1/4 throttle. If it fails to start again take the plugs out, if they are wet again with fuel, then you willl need to pull some fuel out of the cranking fuel setting on the ECU simple as that.

But please carnk the engine over for a while to clear out all of the crap in the combustion chambers, you may need ot do this a couple of times. The first time you do it there will be big clouds of fuel and lubricant flying out of the plugs holes. PS take car not to catch fire, disconect the fuel pump and the ignition while doingthis procedure for extra saftey.

regards

Ok. I 'll do that again !......... , yes I did that already but not a "number of times " as you said , so i'll try
again ,thanks RICE , later.

Stop stuffing around & tow the frigging thing!!!!!!!!
It will start.....
Just put the car in 2nd gear with the ignition on & tow it behind another car at about 40km's an hour and it will go.
I see a car like this come into my shop at least every couple of months that has been continuously flooded like this & the only way to get it to go is to tow it.

I'm not saying that towing is the "right" way to get it started, but i am saying that it's quick, and if the thing can run, it will if you pull it down the road. Sometimes I don't have time (too impatient) to pull plugs, clean them, reinstall them and try cranking again only to have the battery go dead, and the charger click off due to overload.
I don't go 50mph and dump the clutch in 2nd. I put it in 2nd and slowly increase the speed with the clutch out to a max of about 25mph. If it doesn't start then, you probably have a fuel, ignition, computer problem, and you can be pretty sure it's not due to it just being flooded. Oh, you will want to have clean plugs in it. I only recommed this method if you've already tried Rice's method to no avail (a reasonable number of times), and you are tired of mucking with it.
Don.

he said mucking

obviously Don has been playing with Mazda's for a few years!!!!!!!
You hit the nail on the head!