Annoying misfire!
I am trying to find this "misfire" issue I am having. I have looked over and over again all wiring, coils,wires,new spark plugs ect.
35r single turbo Stock trailing coils Msd digital 6 + msd dual blaster coil for leading New plugs and all 9s Ect.. I know it maybe difficult to trouble shoot by Just listening but I'll give it a shot any way.. http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/bfa117ce.mp4 http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/bfa117ce.mp4 |
Idles too rich? Try 12.5-13.0 . I'm guessing its a stock port based on vacuum?
thewird |
Too much timing advance on idle. The miss is not that bad?
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Did I see 207F on your external water temp gauge and 33C on your OEM sensor (Power FC)? If so one of them is wrong, and it is most likely the stock sensor. You need to get a new one. It's the one on the water pump housing. Also, if I'm right you are running an FC thermoswitch which is turning on your #1 fan relay at 97C/207F. Your ECU is not engaging the #2 and #4 fan relays because the water temps are reading too low.
Also, with a bad water temp reading you will be stuck in warm up enrichment and depending on your setup it will affect your ignition timing as well. Both can contribute to misfire at idle. |
Yeah I have the FC thermo switch and the water temp sensor was installed new by me like two years ago... I have the digital temp gauge hooked up from the rear housing coolant nipple to the top coolant nipple on top of the water pump housing. Is it possible I have the water temp green connector the the fuel rail temp connector swaped?
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(Arghx) good eye. Yeah I had the fuel rail sensor and the temp sensor swaped... I swaped them to their right location and right away the a/fr came up in the mid 12s at idle... I am going to take it for a spin today and report back, thanks guys...
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Good thing u have the fc thermoswitch. Otherwise your fans wouldn't come on until very late.
thewird |
It's so easy to mix up them two plugs, Mazda should have made them a diffrent color or connector ..
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Glad to see you finally using those electronics ;)
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Originally Posted by MOBEONER
(Post 10660562)
It's so easy to mix up them two plugs, Mazda should have made them a diffrent color or connector ..
thewird |
Originally Posted by thewird
(Post 10660656)
Well to be honest I'm not sure how you mixed them up. they're kinda positioned where they need to be lol. But shit happens I guess.
thewird |
Originally Posted by beefhole
(Post 10660630)
Glad to see you finally using those electronics ;)
Haha that's funny, i was going to call you to ask you about this as well. :) |
forgot about the whole swapping thing. yes that is a pretty common mistake
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So i took her for a ride and shes running much better now but shes leaning out on me. At idle shes about 12.3 12.5 when i start driving and accelerate lightly she goes from 12 A/Frs to 15 and 16 and she bucks..... I checked fuel gauge 38 psi at vaccum, replaced fuel filter, pump is working ...
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Always run rich, and take away fuel where you don't need it.
16 is safe under cruising/vacuum, but all engines are different. Mine is also unhappy above 16. Some can do 17-18, but everyone is different. |
When my gauge hits upper 15 to 16 it bucks...
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Is this new or has it always done that? This is under throttle tip-in or during steady throttle position?
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Originally Posted by arghx
(Post 10661982)
Is this new or has it always done that? This is under throttle tip-in or during steady throttle position?
I am just begining to understand The PFC and how it works and tuning but i have not tried to mess around with anything in the PFC. This is under throttle tip-in or during steady throttle position? I would have to say both... even when parked, i rev the car and keep (lets say) a stedy 4,000RPM rev it leans out in and out...I will take video of what it does and post it... |
Datalogs would help, preferably ones where you have a wideband input. You loaded a map that hasn't been specifically optimized for your car so there is no guarantee that it isn't still a tuning issue. A single turbo conversion is a big enough change that it can throw off the tune even though you didn't change injectors.
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Originally Posted by arghx
(Post 10662031)
Datalogs would help, preferably ones where you have a wideband input. You loaded a map that hasn't been specifically optimized for your car so there is no guarantee that it isn't still a tuning issue. A single turbo conversion is a big enough change that it can throw off the tune even though you didn't change injectors.
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without having it hooked up you will greatly limit the usefulness of the logs
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This was me reving the motor while in park..If I'm not mistaking the secondary's are the problem.
I checked connectors and everything is connected. http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/77d99875.jpg |
I'm no expert, but I'm thinking the split should be more consistent under vacuum. It starts at 12, but when you touch the throttle, it drops to 3
Tighter split = leaner right? Also the secondary injectors shouldn't be coming on under vacuum, unless the computer is supposed to fire all 4 for tip in? I do not know the PFC like my old haltech though Any experts feel free to chime in! :) |
Nothing looks wrong in the log. Have you tried adding fuel in that area?
thewird |
I have not touched a thing. All I did was install a diffrent map to see what would happened and still the wideband goes lean and bucks. I will post a video of what it does..
Here is video. http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/48e269f2.mp4 |
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