Old guys with 12As club meeting
Well guys, I'm leaving for Vermont Friday morning.. Driving my dad's truck towing an enclosed trailer alllll the way back home and back to Georgia again. This is going to be interesting, because the brakes on his truck without a trailer are something like this. You lean into them and not a whole lot happens. It's simply how they operate, there's nothing wrong with them. Wooo.....
Sabine's transmission leaks from around the speedo gear. Gotta fix that...
Sabine's transmission leaks from around the speedo gear. Gotta fix that...
I think people are a bit crazy about degreaser and pressure washing their engine bays. I mean seriously? I cleaned the engine bays of my cars and many cars at Toyota... Just don't go spraying into the intake or going full blast two inches off the surface of any wiring or sensors...geesh.. Just do it.
So I don't think I've told anyone, but remember my trip to Montgomery to get those wheels? Well I decided that was a stupid purchase, so I put them on CL and sold them for 0 profit...
I make myself feel better thinking that the trip with the girlfriend was worth it
So yeah, those are gone. And the 'vert's going soon. And almost everything I want off of the GXL is off, so that'll be gone soon too. Then it'll be time for more RX7's! We'll see...
Good luck
I take it your mom wants to bring a bunch of stuff home this time...? Or is she just packing a lot of dogs
:
???
When I first got my car, I remember buying some 'Engine Brite' and going to town with it And if I didn't screw anything up, you should be fine, because I was 14... Just don't be a goober and sit the hose, say, next to the air intake snorkel.
I make myself feel better thinking that the trip with the girlfriend was worth it
So yeah, those are gone. And the 'vert's going soon. And almost everything I want off of the GXL is off, so that'll be gone soon too. Then it'll be time for more RX7's! We'll see...
Originally Posted by Collin
Well guys, I'm leaving for Vermont Friday morning.. Driving my dad's truck towing an enclosed trailer alllll the way back home and back to Georgia again. This is going to be interesting, because the brakes on his truck without a trailer are something like this. You lean into them and not a whole lot happens. It's simply how they operate, there's nothing wrong with them. Wooo.....
I take it your mom wants to bring a bunch of stuff home this time...? Or is she just packing a lot of dogs
:???
When I first got my car, I remember buying some 'Engine Brite' and going to town with it And if I didn't screw anything up, you should be fine, because I was 14... Just don't be a goober and sit the hose, say, next to the air intake snorkel.
Originally Posted by Collin
We're bringing back furniture..
Where's the new going?Point it out on a picture and I'll get it off of my spare motor if I've got it, because I'm not too sure I know what you're talking about. Is it the cup-like thing that bolts behind the fan that the belts roll around on, or something else?
Kevin the Younger, the only thing that is sensitive is the distributor, if you get any water in there, which is easy to do when you are spraying down the engine bay with a garden hose, it will ground the dizzy and the car will turn over but not start. You can put a plastic bag over it or if water gets in just take the cap off and blow it out real well, especially around the igniters and down in the base of te dizzy. (If you haven't already popped the dizzy cap and checked for wear to the cap and rotor, this would be a good time to do it!). Obviously you don't want to spray water down the carb with the breather off either, but if the breather is on you don't need to worry about the carb, this will be a good chance to degrease that too.
So the procedure is:
1. Warm the engine a little, the degreaser will be more active on a warm (but not hot!) engine.
2. Spray the engine bay down with degreaser, especially in the greasy oilly areas like below your bee hive and around the connections to you starter.
3. Use a 2-3" paint brush or something similar to work the degreaser into the greasier areas.
4. Let the whole thing sit for 15-20 minutes and then hit it one more time with the brush.
5. Hose it down really well.
6. (Optional, but recommended). Get some nice hot dish soap and soap everything up using the brush and/or a boat sponge. (If you do this you will need to spray the engine bay with some spray lubricant or WD40 after it drys to protect from surface rust).
7. Hose it down one last time and let it dry and the get to work on your nice clean machine!
Start with those starter connections, I'd just undo them all, do a little more degreasing, dry and sand with some 120 sand paper. Chances are that will fix your no start problem.
Kevin the Elder, I hate to tell you this but you ARE that old. You've been hanging out at OGTA since the last century and you are getting to be a crotchety old smart *** just like the rest of us. And what, you are on your third or fourth 7?
Whoops before I posted this I hadn't noticed that you guys had run up a whole 'nother half page of banter, so my note follows the Kevin's posts on the preceding page, not anything on this page. Collin bring me back some of that cool New England antique furniture!
So the procedure is:
1. Warm the engine a little, the degreaser will be more active on a warm (but not hot!) engine.
2. Spray the engine bay down with degreaser, especially in the greasy oilly areas like below your bee hive and around the connections to you starter.
3. Use a 2-3" paint brush or something similar to work the degreaser into the greasier areas.
4. Let the whole thing sit for 15-20 minutes and then hit it one more time with the brush.
5. Hose it down really well.
6. (Optional, but recommended). Get some nice hot dish soap and soap everything up using the brush and/or a boat sponge. (If you do this you will need to spray the engine bay with some spray lubricant or WD40 after it drys to protect from surface rust).
7. Hose it down one last time and let it dry and the get to work on your nice clean machine!
Start with those starter connections, I'd just undo them all, do a little more degreasing, dry and sand with some 120 sand paper. Chances are that will fix your no start problem.
Kevin the Elder, I hate to tell you this but you ARE that old. You've been hanging out at OGTA since the last century and you are getting to be a crotchety old smart *** just like the rest of us. And what, you are on your third or fourth 7?
Whoops before I posted this I hadn't noticed that you guys had run up a whole 'nother half page of banter, so my note follows the Kevin's posts on the preceding page, not anything on this page. Collin bring me back some of that cool New England antique furniture!
Kevin the Younger, the only thing that is sensitive is the distributor, if you get any water in there, which is easy to do when you are spraying down the engine bay with a garden hose, it will ground the dizzy and the car will turn over but not start. You can put a plastic bag over it or if water gets in just take the cap off and blow it out real well, especially around the igniters and down in the base of te dizzy. (If you haven't already popped the dizzy cap and checked for wear to the cap and rotor, this would be a good time to do it!). Obviously you don't want to spray water down the carb with the breather off either, but if the breather is on you don't need to worry about the carb, this will be a good chance to degrease that too.
So the procedure is:
1. Warm the engine a little, the degreaser will be more active on a warm (but not hot!) engine.
2. Spray the engine bay down with degreaser, especially in the greasy oilly areas like below your bee hive and around the connections to you starter.
3. Use a 2-3" paint brush or something similar to work the degreaser into the greasier areas.
4. Let the whole thing sit for 15-20 minutes and then hit it one more time with the brush.
5. Hose it down really well.
6. (Optional, but recommended). Get some nice hot dish soap and soap everything up using the brush and/or a boat sponge. (If you do this you will need to spray the engine bay with some spray lubricant or WD40 after it drys to protect from surface rust).
7. Hose it down one last time and let it dry and the get to work on your nice clean machine!
Start with those starter connections, I'd just undo them all, do a little more degreasing, dry and sand with some 120 sand paper. Chances are that will fix your no start problem.
So the procedure is:
1. Warm the engine a little, the degreaser will be more active on a warm (but not hot!) engine.
2. Spray the engine bay down with degreaser, especially in the greasy oilly areas like below your bee hive and around the connections to you starter.
3. Use a 2-3" paint brush or something similar to work the degreaser into the greasier areas.
4. Let the whole thing sit for 15-20 minutes and then hit it one more time with the brush.
5. Hose it down really well.
6. (Optional, but recommended). Get some nice hot dish soap and soap everything up using the brush and/or a boat sponge. (If you do this you will need to spray the engine bay with some spray lubricant or WD40 after it drys to protect from surface rust).
7. Hose it down one last time and let it dry and the get to work on your nice clean machine!
Start with those starter connections, I'd just undo them all, do a little more degreasing, dry and sand with some 120 sand paper. Chances are that will fix your no start problem.
and ACTUALLY I'm prayin it's the cables because when I went to go remove the starter the first time before I started posting on these forums, I could hardly get the top bolt to budge AND could hardly unplug the wires, I could've just probably didn't plug them all the way back in due to the gunk and grease.
OK, to stir you guys imaginations, should I display the trophies tomorrow night?

So far we got Best In Show:

And Most Improved (we all need to decide which trophy that one gets)
Chris both Kevin the Elder and Kevin the Younger could give you a run for your money on this one.

So far we got Best In Show:

And Most Improved (we all need to decide which trophy that one gets)
Chris both Kevin the Elder and Kevin the Younger could give you a run for your money on this one.

Originally Posted by rxtasy3
brett, he's talking about the aluminum piece that's between the fan and pulley.
I've got to top off my coolant in a min once the car's cooled down- I'll look around and see if I can figure out what you guys mean.
Originally Posted by Ray
Nice find Michael the Younger! Get that fxed and yu can run for Most Improved too.
Originally Posted by Ray
OK, to stir you guys imaginations, should I display the trophies tomorrow night?

-Of course, the most pretty
-Loudest
-Best 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gen
-Longest Drive (to the meet)
-Best wheel/tire combo
-Nicest Paint
-Cleanest Engine Bay
-Cleanest Interior
Theres my imput. Ya'll could get corny and have 'biggest brakes' and what not
the cleaning went well and looked so much better than it looked..but unfortunately it didn't get the car running on it's own. When I turn the key it still does nothing..Alternator-good, Battery-good, Starter-unsure?..now I'm off to the store to pick up new terminals, and am going to disconnect the wires, sand them a bit, put them in the new terminals, and then follow them down and disconnect it at the starter, clean them there also, then reconnect. Wish me luck, if not, I'm still going tomorrow regardless if my GF and I have to push or not, haha.
This one is over my head Kevin the Younger, time for the OGTA collective to decend on your car.
OK, Brett has contributed the next Tropy Award:
-Longest Drive (to the meet)
I'm suggesting the last one on the left for that. It's got a nice chrome plate for an 84 model, with a marble base and a gold medalion.
OK, Brett has contributed the next Tropy Award:
-Longest Drive (to the meet)
I'm suggesting the last one on the left for that. It's got a nice chrome plate for an 84 model, with a marble base and a gold medalion.









