Weird problem setting idle.
 

Its a two part question.
S4 2.1

1. When setting my Idle i go through steps with my rtek and when i get to the last step, the slider that says to slide untill i get the highest rpm. At about half way my idle is about 530 and dies out. In order to get it to idle at 750 i pretty much have to go to full voltage (5?) This doesn't sound right to me. Over all this seems to work fine but i sem to have itermitent problems with my AFRS plumiting when trying to start from stop. Oh TPS is right at 20

2. When I go to tune the damn thing doesn't seem to do anything. Example. In bargraph mode with the car at idle and pull -13ish on the map. I pull the lowest bar down in an attemp to raise or lower my AFR and absoultly nothing happens. I cant stall out the car with too little or too much fuel. Just the same afr.

Weird.

I'm not sure whats with your idle, but just try to make it idle nicely..?... Make sure you have the Injector Presets set correctly with your INJ combo... I just skip all the screens about setting the idle.

Do you see the little brackets in the upper right hand corner of the palm screen? Or an X? it usually takes a second or two to update after making the changes, and maybe blip the throttle to see if it changes anything...

Good luck

I have nearly the same problem with my car running a S4 Rtek 2.1. When im in any gear and hit the gas hard to accelerate I get a serious hesitation, seems like its throwing timing or running extremely rich. It does pick up after but runs quite rich under boost 9-10.5AFR Under stock boost level of 7.5PSI. I also have the exact same issue with setting the idle, I have removed the ACV valve, Air pump, S4 turbo dashpot, and capped off what was left accordingly.
Runs slightly lean at idle under closed loop at about 12.0AFR when technically it should be 14.7. I have 720 secondaries and have set the preset as per manual. Car runs quite well under most normal operating conditions, Idles strong at 750+-100 rpm, and accepts all loads well such as A/C, lights, power windows in combination.

Does anyone have any idea what exactly is going on here? I have a feeling that either my TPS is failed (was set to 20% and has fallen to 11% with care driving), what are the symptoms of a failed afm or air pressure sensor? Does anyone know of these parts failing in the past?

I gave up on this since i had to move and since the weather here is hotter then hell (or tuson) i've been driving my vert.

BUT i will be playing with it this weekend, when the temps arn't 100+ (for seattle that is insane) because I need to do emmisions.

I just don't understand how lowering the slider on the 1k doesn't lean out the car to the point of stall. My safc did that.

As far ass your tps. I've noticed that once you set it to 20% it can change while driving. Its easy to test your tps with an analog voltage meter. They are cheap and I have one only for the one time I tested my TPS

I will have to pull it apart and see whats going on. The idle adjust screw does nothing but LOWER the idle/ idle AFR it seems. I am positive I do not have any boost leaks as I have done comprehensive testing just to make sure. It really seems like this car is holding back a lot all the time and something is seriously wrong. It dynoed at 224 at 7.5psi and had 2 more VERY inconsistent runs including the very noticeable stumbling/hesitation issue, also had a very bad bout of detonation :'( in the high RPM 6500+ and I was told that it seemed the car had advanced the timing beyond reason even after adjusting Timing maps back to a much more conservative then stock level.

I have also checked fuel pump voltage and fuel pressure both checking out quite good.

You can't tune the idle AFR by adjusting the fuel tables; that only affects your mixture during driving conditions. The lowest RPM value is greater than 750 RPM anyway. To adjust idle AFR, you can only use the variable resistor function in the ECU setup menu. Fix whatever you changed in the map, or you might cause some hesitation in that area.

9.0-10.5 is way too rich under boost. You need to pull fuel, then you'll stop bogging the hell out of it. Aim for about 11.5 AFR.

Idle AFR should be around 12-13 AFR when fully warmed. And if you're seeing 12AFR while cruising, the ECU is not getting proper data from the 02 sensor. Is your stock sensor hooked up? Check it.

If your air adjust screw on the BAC is fully extended and will not increase idle speed, adjust your throttle stop, then correct with the adjust screw. Lowering idle speed should not affect AFR.

You can test your TPS with a multimeter and reset it, if necessary. But the TPS is unused at WOT, so long as the signal to the ECU properly shows that the throttle is fully open (full open resistance value).

Again, probably because you need to tune it. 9.0-10.0 AFR is rich enough to to cause misfires in the stock ignition system.

I understand the fact that the fuel tables will not affect idle mixture. Variable resistor function in the ecu does not seem to work correctly, If I adjust it up or down with the initial set coupler set it will die if I turn the screw in and will hold steady 68-=750 with screw all the way out and variable resistor set to approx 1/3 on slider.

I understand the fact it is running far to rich under boost, I have tried removing fuel with minor success, it did make a noticeable difference but still ran fairly rich and had massive hesitation. The car really feels like its being holding back power, does not freely glide down the road as previous rx's have, to me almost feels like the car is running retarded timing a little. I have checked the timing to best my ability at full operating temperature with no loads idle as close to 750 as possible, the marks are bang on it seems.

The stock O2 sensor is brand new and functioning well, sits at a steady 14.7 or so when under lean cruise and cruise conditions.

As I understand Misfire is different from detonation is it not, mean an abundance of fuel to much to be ignited so it 'misses the fire'.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/rich.php

But, did you lean out the map in vacuum at all?

See: https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/afr-tuning-methods-827389/
I had problems with leaning out under slight acceleration, creating a hesitation as you described, just had to up the fuel in vacuum(still slight lean), it runs rich when under boost still and I've dialed it out a lot.

I removed the Variable Resistor (Idle mixture?) as you use the Idle adjustment on the Palm, if you can stall the car from the idle control, its working but you should be able to get a smooth idle... 12-13 afrs seem to be about right for me.

Post up some logs. (you have to zip them before attaching them) Do you have any error codes? Are you using the plviewer?
http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=utilities

I haven't really have problems with setting idle at all. But mine idles at ~1000 but its pretty smooth.

Good luck, you'll get it...

A thread on the topic of being too rich: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/dangerously-rich-afrs-855001/.