Rtek does rtec 2.1 realy stop flooding
10-27-08, 06:50 PM
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does rtec 2.1 realy stop flooding
does rtec 2.1 realy stop flooding....if it does has anyone installed the 2.1 and it totally eliminated flooding.....is it a differant map
10-27-08, 09:32 PM
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you can tune the stock starting map. i've leaned mine out to basically 1/3rd of what the stock settings were and have no issues. cold starts it cranks for just a bit long and then catches but never have a flooding issue. You do probably want to get you injectors serviced to help with flooding too.
10-28-08, 07:17 PM
#9
Regardless of your injectors, the 2.1 for the S4 has the ability to change the crank fuel vs temperature map. When you change the injector preset, the map is also adjusted to compensate for the change in primary injectors. But you can make your own changes as well on top of that.
10-28-08, 07:34 PM
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now whats the highist the secondary injectors can go on the 2.1 ...would 550 in the primarys and 1000s in the secondarys work on a t3/4 turbo.... with out flooding?
10-28-08, 08:35 PM
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ive read it ....im just getting up to date info before i buy one....i dont have flooding im just curios on the features on the knew 2,1....is there any issues on install
10-31-08, 08:30 PM
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i think what should be said is that the question is flawed.
rtek cannot stop the car from flooding. cars that flood usually only do so when they are out of tune, having severely leaking injectors, etc. hotstart and shortstart problems arent really engine map related, they are out of tune/low compression/crap injector related. ofcourse the engine map can be changed to make this LESS of a problem, but it wont SOLVE it.
as said though, the rtek can help sort some of this out, but its not directly related to the problem that CAUSES flooding.
rtek cannot stop the car from flooding. cars that flood usually only do so when they are out of tune, having severely leaking injectors, etc. hotstart and shortstart problems arent really engine map related, they are out of tune/low compression/crap injector related. ofcourse the engine map can be changed to make this LESS of a problem, but it wont SOLVE it.
as said though, the rtek can help sort some of this out, but its not directly related to the problem that CAUSES flooding.
Last edited by Minnionator; 10-31-08 at 08:34 PM.
10-31-08, 10:39 PM
#14
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It (RTEK Crank map) is similar to the Mazda crank fuel map (2nd jpg). Except the RTEK can be manually changed. The Mazda one CAN be changed by eliminating it and using the AFM for starting. Elimination by removing the Start signal from the start circuit at pin 3B.
11-01-08, 10:24 PM
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That's interesting, I didn't know you could use the afm for the cranking map. Are there any disadvantages to doing that? Is all you would need to do is de-pin 3B?
As far as the rtek goes, I had to use a fuel pump cut off switch to start my car for years, after tuning my the starting map with the rtek, my car starts every time. I actually removed my cutoff switch since I haven't had to use it in over a year! I definitely fixed what ever was causing my car to flood.
As far as the rtek goes, I had to use a fuel pump cut off switch to start my car for years, after tuning my the starting map with the rtek, my car starts every time. I actually removed my cutoff switch since I haven't had to use it in over a year! I definitely fixed what ever was causing my car to flood.
11-01-08, 11:00 PM
#16
I used the pin 3b method for quite a while. I also had to use the fuel cut swtich. Now Both are not needed. The cranking map almost allways keeps it from flooding on me. And if something does go wrong I can clear it by pushing the pedal all the way down. Its win win.
I have 720x4, when I changed them before (rtek 2.0, no crank start map at that point) it still flooded EXACTLY the same as it did with the 5x550s. So size doesn't matter
I could still clear it with the flood clear but i did the pin 3b method for hot starts.
Confused?
Just get the 2.1 its worth it.
I have 720x4, when I changed them before (rtek 2.0, no crank start map at that point) it still flooded EXACTLY the same as it did with the 5x550s. So size doesn't matter
I could still clear it with the flood clear but i did the pin 3b method for hot starts. Confused?
Just get the 2.1 its worth it.
11-02-08, 07:42 PM
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That's interesting, I didn't know you could use the afm for the cranking map. Are there any disadvantages to doing that? Is all you would need to do is de-pin 3B?
As far as the rtek goes, I had to use a fuel pump cut off switch to start my car for years, after tuning my the starting map with the rtek, my car starts every time. I actually removed my cutoff switch since I haven't had to use it in over a year! I definitely fixed what ever was causing my car to flood.
As far as the rtek goes, I had to use a fuel pump cut off switch to start my car for years, after tuning my the starting map with the rtek, my car starts every time. I actually removed my cutoff switch since I haven't had to use it in over a year! I definitely fixed what ever was causing my car to flood.
There is a disadvantage. In COLD weather with a cold engine, it's more difficult to start (not enough fuel for a cold start).
Anyway, 3B will eliminate HOT start problems totally imho. Then again, if you have a RTEK 2.1, you don't need to be doing the 3B removal. Removal of 3B beats a fuel cut switch all to heck and back. EGI fuse removal for flooding ...................is something I'd never put up with. EVER. It's flat dumb.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-02-08 at 07:46 PM.
11-10-08, 08:28 AM
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Dennis Blackstone has been relentless in trying to find out why RX flood. So I read an article this weekend concerning something quite different, but might apply. I'll attach it in a jpg.
What I'm suggesting, is that we have a rather old fashion ECU compared to modern ECU.
Modern ECU have the ability to adapt to new conditons and *learn*. Ours does not. When the engine starts wearing out there's no new learning cycle or change in fuel delivery. But it seems there are changes and new learning in newer ECUs.
As long as we continue to use used parts in rebuilds, things aren't going to be *as new* again.
What I'm suggesting, is that we have a rather old fashion ECU compared to modern ECU.
Modern ECU have the ability to adapt to new conditons and *learn*. Ours does not. When the engine starts wearing out there's no new learning cycle or change in fuel delivery. But it seems there are changes and new learning in newer ECUs.
As long as we continue to use used parts in rebuilds, things aren't going to be *as new* again.
11-19-08, 01:58 PM
#19
^ Rx-8's flood, albeit nowhere near as often as 2nd gens, and they have a very modern ECU that runs on a CANbus and is adaptable (has fuel trims). It is an overly rich cranking map that is the root of the problem, probably for some emissions or supposed driveability reason that we don't understand.
Here is the cranking map from my Apex'i Power FC, which is for 550 primary's:
degrees C - pulsewidth
80 - 12.0
50 - 17.3
30 - 32.0
10 - 59.0
-10 - 87.2
-30 - 104.2
This is I believe a little bit leaner in a few spots than the graph Hailers posted from the training manual, which is for a nonturbo engine with 460cc injectors. I have NEVER flooded with that map. I can start the car and cut it off after a few seconds and it always starts right back up. Same deal when it's hot.
Here is the cranking map from my Apex'i Power FC, which is for 550 primary's:
degrees C - pulsewidth
80 - 12.0
50 - 17.3
30 - 32.0
10 - 59.0
-10 - 87.2
-30 - 104.2
This is I believe a little bit leaner in a few spots than the graph Hailers posted from the training manual, which is for a nonturbo engine with 460cc injectors. I have NEVER flooded with that map. I can start the car and cut it off after a few seconds and it always starts right back up. Same deal when it's hot.
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