Question about O2 Sensor R/L Output
 

I noticed that when I was viewing the outputs screen while driving the "O2 Sensor R/L" check would flicker on and off where i am having the bucking. Is it normal for the output to flick on and off while light throttle?

It's just the rich/lean indicator. It should flicker whenever you are cruising/ in closed loop..

So, a slight excelleration from 2k-3k would cause closed loop? I understand closed loop happens at a steady cruise, correct? Will it go into closed loop while moving up the rpm's?

I'm not 100% certain the exact conditions for closed loop. Typically the ECU operates in closed loop until you get to a certain load. (i.e. TPS > x%) You can accelerate lightly without coming out of closed loop..

so we have a tps issues then. i thought this was the issue the whole time..so i dont know and i have found out that when the engine is warm (at half way or little more) it runs worse.

It doesn't take much acceleration to go open loop, you can get away with very light acceleration and stay closed loop. The exact conditions are fairly complicated (read I haven't fully decoded this section of the ECU). Try disconnecting the O2 sensor wire temporarily, this will force the ECU to stay open loop even at cruising. If the hesitation goes away then at least its been narrowed to closed loop operation.

-Henrik

ill try this today

******when the engine is warm (at half way or little more) it runs worse.
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While under 120* the mixture is richer. Just over 120* it gets leaner. Watch your wideband and water temp and you can see that happen at approx 120*.

no wideband yet... but i unplugged my o2 and it seems to alot better til the temp get at half or little more(cant figure out why my car gets over half way??,new oe stat, koyo and 16"e-fan??)

Do you have the underbelly tray on your car?

no i dont and i have the stock t2 hood.. but i think im running a higher water content than coolant

and i might have a wideband in a few days

Do you have the underbelly tray on it though. Goes under the front of the car. Keeps the air from escaping though the bottom and forces it into the rad.

Something is wrong with this picture. The RTEK2.0 has a real accurate water temperature display. Much more accurate than the gauge for sure. Just an observation.

no i know this. well what temp is normal for a o.e. stat? and no i dont have the undertray on it.. it was wrecked along time ago and its not been there since ive had it

I would recomend a underbelly tray. Makes a huge difference. Hey, I ran a new 02 wire, and have to say, the problem got better until I ran my car for a while and it started to come back. But not as bad.. I had resistenace on the 02 before like a few other wires. I have a feeling I have a break somehwere in my harness.

180* and should show that on the RTEK.

With KOYO a RX will run cold in the winter and spring time from my observations. I don't like too cold a water temp myself. Too hot/too cold, can't win.

Gauges are deceptive. Stock gauges that is. On one of my cars the needle will be in the lower quater easy when at 180*. On another car when at 180* it will be almost in the middle. Possible caused by the combination meter being replaced a few years ago from a wrecking yard.

well my rtek says 236 sometimes?? i also think that the neck that has the cap on it leaks out at higher temps. and an air leak would lower psi in the radiator and cause the liquids boiling point to drop and cause it to run warmer right? is there a aftermarket underbelly

You can go to any wrecker and get one off a fc3s. My S4 unerbelly fit on my S5 bumper, so any will do. With my fmic, I added ducting. Honestly, those temps are high. I bought a Taurus E-Fsan from the wrecker. The fan goes on at 213 +- and turns off at 185 +- . I will get a pic of my ducting for you. I would think the clutch fan would keep it pretty steady. I would highly recomend more cooling.

Do you have the black ducting on the top of the rad?

i have an 87 gxl and ill take a look to see if it has one but also i need to set my efan lower maybe.. much research do i must.

black ducting? shroud? nope not here

236 is hot hot hot. You shouldn't see more than 180 give or take a bit, unless your really booting it. How old is the t-stat? They seem to not last more than a couple of years. When I first got my TII, it ran hot (about 1/2 on the stock guage and the aux fan would come on a lot), replaced the t-stat and it doesn't go above about 1/4 on the stock guage (180 on the Rtek) unless I'm booting it and then it cools down again quick. Stock rad/fan with both undertrays.

-Henrik

no i have koyo and 16" efan and stat is brand new (oe)

I think Henrik was suggesting the above. THere really is no better cooling device then the OEM clutch fan.

ahhh well im going to check on that tray today

also the upper two black rad shrouds.