Installed Linelock...brakes seem to be "sticking on" ???
 

I installed a hurst 1 in 3 out linelock in my turbo II...
After the install ...my front brakes seem to be dragging, think there is air in the line?
Is it possible the return lines are too small and the fluid is trapped in the calipers?
I have it 12v key on, and turn it on with the button..no switches.

I used 3/16th line and i'm utilizing all the stock lines, not 1/4" line like the diagram says, a mustang is basically an identical setup to ours.

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Touch a wrench or something steel to the top of the solenoid and make sure it isn't staying energized. If it is magnetic, then the solenoid is somehow getting power when it's not suppose to.

Looks like you fed out if the prop valve did you have a pic of lines b4 you added?
Did you bleed all the brakes or just fronts?

Hello fellows thanks for your reply !

The lines were bent up as to be able to return to stock if there were issues... I am feeding the LL with the output of the master cylinder with what I believed to be the front output. The rears are untouched. The mc port that fed the front left brake caliper without a proportioning valve was capped off. The LL tees the line for me as its 3 outputs.

I have bled the brakes starting on the passenger's rear. Drivers rear. Passenger's front. Then drivers front.

I used a bleeding cup. So air wavy sucked in. I am going to try the brakes again.

I'll try the magnet method. ..

I fear the line size is too small going from the proportioning valve to the linelock...

Thanks again

Im guessing air in the system, because its installed above the brake filling point will be a prick to get the air out :)

I checked the solenoid for magnetism And I also checked the ground .. everything seems fine.

The linse are in what I think are factory positions. .. anybody know if there is a diagram of where they are to go ?

Air in the system would not cause the brakes to drag. Same with the size of the line. Looks like you used stock size line. Unplug the solenoid all together and see if that frees things up. Doubt it will since it should be an all or nothing deal. FWIW, you'll be able to hear the solenoid click when you activate it. It'll also get hot if you leave it activated for very long.

My guess is, you either have it plumbed wrong or you got some burrs in the line restricting flow when you did the flaring.

Plumbed incorrect IMHO, but I'm a Fd guy... I say ditch the factory prop valve, add a wildwood or something and run right to mc
Good article with pics of the lines into and out of the MC, we need pics like this to be able to help you!

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=15624.15

i just looked at Rxv8builder and the only difference on his car... he has a single in single out LL. He sent the side port of the MC to the Prop Valve.... then plugged the output.

On the MC he used the bottom port into the line lock then tee'd the line going to his two front brakes.

I did the opposite, blocked the mc port and used the post PRop valve port..


My lines look messy because they have an expansion loop in them for vibration/movement. But they also use unions to mate up to the factory lines with no cutting or reflaring at all... I can completely remove my setup in minutes minus the bleeding of the brakes and go through a DOT inspection if needed.


I'll try it how v8RX7Builder ran his lines and see if it goes away. This is how i originally wanted to run the setup but thought the Prop Valve would give me a bunch of grief.

Ill double check the flares when I take it apart, Ill check if they somehow are restricted. Thanks everyone! :)

BTW yes, the valve makes noises when it's released...and i can hear it actuate when i engage it with the engine off. Much like a regular relay! :)

I'll keep you all posted.

OK I redid the lines like the norotors thread (keep in mind I have a 3 output line lock)

The rear brakes were plumbed into the f port and the f into the r. I've capped the f off and ran the supply for the LL into the bottom mc port.

The brakes are now dragging. .. like if I push the car in neutral. .. it rolls then stops like the brakes are in say 1 percent or whatever. ..

Is this as good as it gets? I'm ready to go with the wilwood prop valve. .. sigh

Thanks in advance