Getting ready for PINKS ALL OUT
"Pinks All Out" accepted my car for November 20th at Firebird Raceway here in Phoenix, Arizona. I have never raced before now. I took my yellow RX7 R-1 (with a single T4 turbo, dyno-tuned to 350 whp and 310 ft lbs of torque) to Firebird a couple of weekends ago and was able to get 13.3 at 110 mph, with wheel spin through 1st and 2nd gear. Once I get hooked up the car performs fantastic. I have stock transmission, rear end, and axles. I have a new Stage 1 Exedy racing clutch. My problem (besides inexperience at the track) is wheel spin, as everybody else. I am running 17 inch street tires. I have not tried any "feathering" at all. I launch at about 4,000 rpm, full throttle, with considerable wheel-spin, then shift into 2nd at 6000 rpm. I get wheel spin almost through 2nd gear. I shift at 6000 rpm into third and then just hang on through 4th as traction catches up with the car. I ran 11 runs and was able to be consisitent in the 13.3 to 13.5 range. I noticed that I only lay rubber with the right rear tire. Shouldn't I be seeing two lines of black ? Can someone please give me some help before I break something. Will I see better ET's with "feathering" at the launch, or am I just going to have to live with wheel spin and 13's until I get slicks? I am looking at Nitto NT 555R's or Nitto NT-05's. Anyone out there have any experience with these tires?
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drag radials or slicks are your answer..
AND ALOT of practice.... |
going with a set of drag coilovers in the rear should also help with traction as they will allow a significant amount of weight transfer to the rear reducing wheelspin, but not eliminating it.
you also want to learn how to pre-load the clutch and ease out of it quickly off the line |
So Pinks all out is doing a 13 sec class? or did you not tell them what your car runs?
and for your question drag radials will fix your traction issue but the tires you listed have stiff side walls so they probably will wheel hop and break your stock rear on the first hard launch |
With a 13 sec car you will likely see less than 3 seconds of tv time. You need to get your et down if you want anyone to know you've been there.
Slicks are a must have, drag radials a minimum. With this opportunity you need to find the funds to get into the 11 second class or you're gonna be a 2 run spectator in the crowd. |
Go get some slicks, more seat time, and possibly a re-tune and up your power a bit. You need to at least get into the 11s and be semi consistent to have a chance.
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Pinks All Out- traction
Originally Posted by 1wide7
(Post 10199731)
So Pinks all out is doing a 13 sec class? or did you not tell them what your car runs?
and for your question drag radials will fix your traction issue but the tires you listed have stiff side walls so they probably will wheel hop and break your stock rear on the first hard launch I do not want replace my rear end right now, so I need to be conservative and avoid wheel hop. |
Pinks All Out- clutch
Originally Posted by cptpain
(Post 10199330)
going with a set of drag coilovers in the rear should also help with traction as they will allow a significant amount of weight transfer to the rear reducing wheelspin, but not eliminating it.
you also want to learn how to pre-load the clutch and ease out of it quickly off the line |
Originally Posted by 84stock
(Post 10200592)
With a 13 sec car you will likely see less than 3 seconds of tv time. You need to get your et down if you want anyone to know you've been there.
Slicks are a must have, drag radials a minimum. With this opportunity you need to find the funds to get into the 11 second class or you're gonna be a 2 run spectator in the crowd. |
"Pinks All Out"- slicks, time and tune
Originally Posted by rnz520
(Post 10201639)
Go get some slicks, more seat time, and possibly a re-tune and up your power a bit. You need to at least get into the 11s and be semi consistent to have a chance.
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every mod you do is like learning how to drive the car all over again. i agree with practice, practice, practice, practice and more practice.
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drag radials,
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have fun and Listen to the guys practice is the key,, slicks and practice, no matter what you having the family their your a winner in my book ,, My kids get so excited when we go to track, imagine if i race, have fun and good luck,,
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Originally Posted by chino_rx3
(Post 10204287)
have fun and Listen to the guys practice is the key,, slicks and practice, no matter what you having the family their your a winner in my book ,, My kids get so excited when we go to track, imagine if i race, have fun and good luck,,
DITTO on the family!!! |
I made an error in my assessment of my differential and tire marks on the pavement. It seems the rear end is working just fine. I was actually looking at someone else's tire marks. I leave plenty of "double" rubber (both tires) on a burn out. So, traction is my problem. I'm going to get Nitto NT 555R's for the rear today. If anyone out there needs some, you can get a pretty good deal from Discount Tire. Mine ran $159 plus $15 for mounting and balancing (each). I think they are advertized at $169. I found an internet price of about $147 from Discounted Wheel Warehouse, but after freight, they would have been higher than Discount Tire. Discount Tires was able to special order the tires yesterday for overnight delivery today.
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shift at 8000
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I have a FC making around 350-360, drag radials is all you need. I gained 4 10th's of a second on my 60' and 1/4 mile time. I was running the stock 15" wheels w/ a 225/60 soft compound tire. A 235/60 on a 15x7 inch wheel and some more practice, there's no reason you couldn't run 12's...and up your shift to 7500 or 8000.
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Tires, burn-outs, & RPM
Originally Posted by Holton713BRE
(Post 10207022)
I have a FC making around 350-360, drag radials is all you need. I gained 4 10th's of a second on my 60' and 1/4 mile time. I was running the stock 15" wheels w/ a 225/60 soft compound tire. A 235/60 on a 15x7 inch wheel and some more practice, there's no reason you couldn't run 12's...and up your shift to 7500 or 8000.
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For the first burn out, do a decent one, you don't want to boil them. Then after the first one just a puff of smoke works good for me, just enough to get them cleaned off. And if they prep the track right, you'll hook. Just play with the launches, I've tried everything, the best for me is 6500 and slipping the shit out of the clutch. But I also have a ACT 6 puck un-sprung clutch in my car. Get some vids next time you go...I'm going out next Wednesday night, so I'll try to post one of my car next week.
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My boss(and several friends here) will be running in Pinks here at Infineon raceway(17th/18th) in his Vega, we've stopped work on customers cars trying to get it ready in time :lol: From what Ive heard from reliable sources, they pick cars that look like street cars(stockish) and run in the low 10's (10.1-10.3). I hope to see a Rx7 or two out there...the event sold out within an hour.
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careful with the stock rear and drag radials. I am assuming you have all stock toe links ect. The drag radials may make it wheel hop and then something is going to break.
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something broke
Originally Posted by gunhail1
(Post 10208704)
careful with the stock rear and drag radials. I am assuming you have all stock toe links ect. The drag radials may make it wheel hop and then something is going to break.
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@ the OP, dude that sucks! I hope you get it taken care of ASAP, I wanna see some RX7's on PAO asap lol.
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LSD trip...to the parts store.
Originally Posted by jm85rx7
(Post 10210507)
Lsd?
When jacked up and turning the wheels by hand, there is no noise, but a definite binding after turning free for a partial turn. I can turn the wheel past the "bind", and it will turn freely until it binds again. It does it the same for both rear wheels. All right you guys out there, before I remove and open up the LSD, what do you think it is? Should I rebuild or replace the LSD? If I replace it, what would you suggest... OEM Torsen LSD? KAAZ LSD 1.5 or 2 way? Carbonetics 1.5 or 2 way, carbon or metal? Any ideas on saving money on the parts? |
KAzz 1.5 way thats what I use
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