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-   -   FD3S chassis limits (https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-drag-racing-167/fd3s-chassis-limits-988704/)

lane_change 02-23-12 10:43 AM

FD3S chassis limits
 
I am getting ready to start another FD mega project and want to do things a bit different this time around. I want to keep it a street car...my last FD build started with those intentions but went way too far the wrong way and basically became a race car that I tried to convince myself could be a street car, eventually I decided it was a race car and sold it. That car was a 93 FD, 2JZ, Ford 9", 4-link, back-halved, TH400, and an NHRA certified chassis down to around 8.50 w/ parachute mount, etc... Again, I lost my street car feel.

This time around I am planning to go TT LSX...6-speed, Ford 9", roll bar/cage (not NHRA approved), no parachute, etc...but I am curious about the chassis limits for this kind of build/power output. How much cage do I need to keep the car straight with 800-1000hp? Plans were for a full roll bar in the rear, front door bars (low), to tie into the front firewall area, and subframe connectors. Ideally I would like to tie into the front shock towers again, but I don't think I can make that work without coming in high and I don't want a halo in the car since I don't want to have to wear a helmet to drive the car on the street. I'm just not sure what the best approach would be to keep the cage as un-intrusive as possible on the cabin while still providing the chassis support that I would need. I may also run some pin out door bars as well. I want to keep the area from the seats forward feeling stock.

We are planning to tube frame the very front of the car to create more room for the turbo mounting, intercooler, radiator mounting, piping, etc... and just build mounting tabs for the stock bumper, radiator, etc...to secure to. We are also going to be keeping a/c in the car, it's Houston...way too hot for a street car not to have a/c. The main purpose for the car will just be for fun, just your basic street car, maybe some time at the drag strip on low boost, etc...but I want to go back to a turbo setup after having a radical n/a setup in my C6Z06, I want the street civility and brutal power potential that a turbo setup can offer. The car will be running a ProEFI EMS, all mil-spec wiring, etc...

So basically, I am just looking for some basic ideas, see what some of you guys are running for your chassis configurations that are making decent power.

Rotor_4_Life 02-23-12 02:48 PM

2jz and lsx? That's weak!

This section is ROTARY drag racing :icon_tdow

mazda2211 02-23-12 02:58 PM


Originally Posted by rotor_4_life (Post 10991253)
2jz and lsx? That's weak!

This section is rotary drag racing :icon_tdow

+1

lane_change 02-23-12 03:03 PM


Originally Posted by Rotor_4_Life (Post 10991253)
2jz and lsx? That's weak!

This section is ROTARY drag racing :icon_tdow

I have had dozens of rotary powered FD's, from big singles to stock twins....plus I am going to have 2 FD's, one small single rotary powered car (IHI RX6 or similar), and this one. Just looking for some chassis input....the motor really is not the question, unless you think the torque differences between the LSX is just too far off from the rotary powered torque curves to make my question non applicable for the experienced rotary powered drag racer with an FD. But I don't think it is. I think a chassis is a chassis...just curious to know what people think is necessary for chassis modifications for a car of this nature. I have heard of FD's that can't close their doors due to too much flex, I don't want that from my car.

PDViper77 04-22-12 10:52 PM

I thought I remember you being from the Missouri area??? Anyway, do you have any pictures or info on your previous parachute mount? I need one for my 7 and also who did it for you?

Thanks,


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