Turbo bolts keep coming loose, tried Nord-locks, Loctite, 300lb-ft torque, what next?
 

I have a single turbo FD with a stainless steel manifold. I presume the T3 flange is regular steel. The bolts are high grade steel. I've had the bolts come loose 6 times now. I've tried lock washers, Loctite, Nord-locks, a ton of torque on each bolt, new bolts, and all of them together. They just keep coming loose. It doesn't take very long (one day to one week) and the Nord-locks have worked the best for me so far (two weeks). I can literally move my turbo by hand it becomes so loose.

The turbo is mounted real low so it's a royal PITA to re-tighten. I have to take the compressor housing off of the turbo, the downpipe, and everything around it to re-tighten the bolts. It's about a 2 hour job after doing it 6 times. I wouldn't be able to drill the bolts on the manifold to wire it up but maybe drill them several ways before tightening it. I'm considering some very pricey options at this point. I've even considered tacking the turbo to the manifold at this point.

Since the area regularly sees 1200-1400F exhaust temperatures, most bolt vibration techniques don't work. Loctite burns up at 450F, lock washers go flat, stainless steel stretches (or seizes), so this has been a huge annoyance for me.

I've heard of people drilling/wiring them, using hose clamps wedged against the housing, welds/tacks on the bolts/turbo, stage 8 bolts, 2100F thread-locker (it's only rated for 300inch-lbs, $50), and a few other ideas. I just want to do it one more time and never touch it again.

My question is, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions to keep them from loosening up again? What's worked for you? I'd ideally like to be able to do this with hand tools but I'm up for anything at this point.

Crown nuts or tack weld the nuts. I've never had to do either though so I'm wondering whats up...?

No personal experience, but......

http://www.stage8.com/imports.html

I was gonna say stage 8 as well. That's what they are supposed to be know for. From racing to heavy duty machinery. I'd give them a call.

I had good luck with these.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=FST

I'm going to pickup a set of stage 8's. Thanks for all of your help, I'll let you know how they work after a few weeks.

these solved my problems

serrated metric external tooth lock washers. once they dig in you are good to go.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-lock-washers/=hfzp6e

I used stage 8 nuts and installed studs. I haven't had nearly as many problems since I've started using them. I blew my turbo and had hell taking them off but since then it's been great. I would highly recommend these bolts/nuts for anyone looking to fix this type of problem. :)

i had a miata friend with this same problem, and they tried a number of fixes, but the root problem turned out to be that the chinese turbo didn't have the bolt pads machined flat, so the fasteners were not tightening to a flat surface.

the fix was putting on a real Garrett.

Nope. Yuo don't want them coming undone? drill and safety wire.

Triple-R: Engine Rebuild - More Turbo Improvements

http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/safetywire.jpg

Regards,
Crispy

Well I'm certain mines a real Garrett. :)

Purdy! I would do something like this if I had the room/access to it. Didn't you safety wire the turbo and the motor/exhaust flanges?