Things To Do When on the INSIDE
 

I am going to pull my motor AGAIN soon to replace those faulty O rings ( hope thats all) , I plan to replace the oil pump and also the regulator with a 105-115 psi HP one so I can safety run 10K rpms . Is there anything else I could / should do whilst I'm in there ? , I am also using all original MAZDA soft parts , I use original 3pc seals , rotors are cleaarenced , e shaft polished ,oil jets replaced with webber carby jets and the thermal bypass pellet replaced with the plug.:) :confused:

What are you doing about rotor bearings and stat. gears?

.... as well as crank assembly balancing?

B

Correct me if i'm wrong , but aren't the stock FD bearings and stat. gears up to the task?.

10k rpm?

not on stock internals you won't!!!

Already doing 9000 withouy ANY problems.

I was reading a technical thing on rotary engines and they had a graph showing the load on the stationary gear teeth as a function of RPM.

Loads doubled when going from 8000 to 9000 RPM. I don't even want to think about what they're like at 10000 :)

Brian

Is that so ? , care to post a link to that info ?.

I have seen 14998rpm's on Cosmo(same as FD) stationary gears. I have seen 12,000rpm's every weekend for a year on the same motor. I personally was reving to 10,500rpm's on my 1/2 bridge motor. The FD stationary gears can take it. Shit I rev 9500+ on my sideported motor. Yes the motor probably won't last 10yrs, but it is fun as hell. I do advise using the same weight rotors. The rotors are stamped with letters on the side similar to the #'s marking side seal grooves. There are A,B,C,D,and E rotors. You can use letters that are next to each other. Use an A with a B or a B with a C and so on.

On my FTP....

ftp.zeroglabs.com
username: rx7
password: rx7

file is "REbyKenichiYamamoto.pdf" -- it's in there.

Brian

and also, at around 88000Rpm, the e-shaft starts to flex.

now imagine all those precision-machined clearances throughout your engine, and now imagine having the main supporting section moving about.

Say bye-bye internals!!

if you dont hold it too high it should do 9500 rpms

but dont hold it
and be warned the apex seals wont last all that long with the chatter from that speed

you could always get ceramic seals :S

The reason for the clearancing of the rotors is to ALLOW the additional movement when doinng higher rpm's.The ideal would be something like the GURU two piece e shaft with center bearing (planned for my semi pp motor) . Everyone says get hardened stationary gears ...., but does everyone know that the FD gears are factory hardened ?.
I think higher oil pressure would be enough , as I said ,I am already doing 9000rpm with my present mods without problems, I will let you'll know whal happens.

Go for it man. Plenty of oil pressure with stock FD regulator for over 10,000 and yes the FD does have hardened stationary gears. Have fun!

Here's an idea, instead of paying shitloads of cash for a 2-piece e-shaft and bearing, why not get a 2-piece roller-bearing instead?

Simply fit it around the e-shaft when you're assembling it, and voila!!

A centre bearing :)

!!!!!

MINE!! ALL MINE!! MUHUHAHAHAHAHahahahaa... (evil laughter continues unabated for minutes)

Man you just made my day!

What da HELL IS DAT ^??? !!!!!