rxforspeed |
06-24-08 02:29 AM |
Rotary building newb-a few questions and ideas related to turbo six port engines...
Hey guys-I'm not new to this forum (I prefer to stay in the first gen section most of the time), but I'm still pretty new to rotary engines in general. My main question on this topic is if the Atkins "Rotary Engine Rebuilding" DVD is worth the $25 plus shipping for an inexperienced rotary engine builder like myself? My goal is to use the MSII V3.0 EMS to control the fuel and ignition timing, while utilizing a seperate electronic boost controller to keep boost pressures under 15psi. I'm shooting for about 300 or less HP, but I want to keep the engine streetable with as much low end torque and power as possible, while keeping maximum engine speed to under 7500rpms. I'm also after as much reliability as possible, hoping for somewhere close to 100k miles without a complete rebuilt.
I'm a fabricator by trade, and although I haven't much experience with welding aluminum, I'd like to fabricate my own six-port lower intake manifold. The main goal behind this idea would be to keep the auxillary ports (or rotary valves) operational and run the actuators off of regulated boost pressure-or eventually step up to electronic gear driven motors remotely operating the rotary valves based on engine load, throttle position, boost pressure, and engine speed. I figured if I could build a custom LIM, than I'd build a custom UIM to match and run each main, secondary, and auxillary port into it's own runner. The auxillary port actuator connecting rods would definately require some modifications, as would the comlete assemblies to keep the profiles closer to the housings and irons and away from the exhaust/turbo manifold, turbine, downpipe, wastegate, and other hot exhaust components. With a fabricated intake such as this, I could also tune the main port runners to a longer length, the secondary runners to a medium length, and have extremely short auxillary port runners to enhance power and torque throughout the entire RPM range. Each runner could be made of equal length between the two rotors as compared to the stock offset design, where one rotor may run rich and the other lean if left uncorrected in the EMS tuning. Any thoughts on this idea? Has this ever been attempted before?
Thanks in advance for your time, help, and cooperation guys. Your advice is sincerely appreciated...
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