Question about synthetic
I've been reading most of the current threads on the dino VS syn arguement but just recently a member said rotaries burned oil. Now I already knew rotaries burned oil, but aren't synthetic oils supposed to resist burning? How does this all equal out? Can someone please explain?
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Don't use it if you still have the stock oil injection.
-Ted |
Can you explain a little more in depth? I like to know why I'd be doing something (or not in this case).
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Some brands of synthetic work in the rotary engine, and others do not. For this reason, Mazda recommends against using synthetic oil in the engine. The brands of synthetic which do not work well sludge up in the rotors and wear striations into the rotor housings. The brands of synthetic oil which do work well are used by many race teams in their pre-mix.
For a street car, I don't see any reason to spend $8/qt on synthetic engine oil which you will replace every 3,000 miles. I have used Castrol GTX 20w50 oil in rotaries for over 14 years now with excellent results, and it's only a little more than $1/qt. :D Synthetic oil in the transmission and differential is a good idea, however, since it really does make a difference, and is more affordable since you only change this oil every 30,000 - 60,000 miles. |
Originally posted by Evil Aviator The brands of synthetic which do not work well sludge up in the rotors and wear striations into the rotor housings. |
When I converted to Pre-mix, I was down with using Synthetic but as mentioned, why spend so much money on Synthetic when your changing It every 3000k's. You guys are changing your oil at 3000k's aren't you? :D
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most synthetic when injected doesn't burn up completely
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Originally posted by NRA T2 most synthetic when injected doesn't burn up completely |
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