Pour-able Urethane. DIY mounts/bushes
 

Looking for a suitable product came across a local one (Aus) that came in various hardnesses from 60a to 90a, a phone call and he tells me flat out its not for automotive use, that the one you want needs to be heated to 240c for pouring and baked 24h @ 200c to cure and is not for retail sale, cant be done at home.
then there's this DIY Liquid Urethane Engine and Motor Mount Inserts
but on the site they dont even tell you how much you get and some of the reviews complain it came with no instructions and didnt set properly.
Just wondering what viable options are here. I have some grand ideas for fabbing some fully captured mounts but its a lot of work to flush down the tube by using an inferior product.

If you don't get any leads on a cast-able solution, you can machine mounts up out of readily available billet material.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#polyurethane-rubber/=155l2jc

Right there in the link you provided for the Energy Suspension "Do-it-yourself" kit there were very detailed written instructions and a nice video.

The video shows you how much (how little?) you get in the kit.

Cheers Blue -didnt see that the 1st time must have had a couple too many under my belt and switched off with all the "why do you want poly mounts in your car" kind of info tainment.

Glad to see they address the curing process, makes me feel better. Couldnt see how much you get but its 1400g shipped so im guessing a litre or a pint which is plenty for four mounts.

I have got some 90a rod left from the "hockey Puck" mounts i made - problem with them is you still get noise and vibration transfer through the bolt unless you enlarge a hole and bush one end of the bolt.

I might splash out and get this diy goo - postage to aus is a bit of a killer though.

Here is a 5 second doodling of what i had in mind - i can see a couple problems with it - will refine and streamline it.

I have got some 90a rod left from the "hockey Puck" mounts i made - problem with them is you still get noise and vibration transfer through the bolt unless you enlarge a hole and bush one end of the bolt.


Yeah.

The way I have seen others get away from the hockey puck problem of a single through bolt is to turn the rubber cylinder 90 degrees in orientation.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c5aed381ec.jpg

Couldnt see how much you get but its 1400g shipped so im guessing a litre or a pint which is plenty for four mounts.

It looked like very little "poly" is provided in the kit from the video.

^ yeah that solution crossed my mind but i dont have access to a lathe and it seemed a little bulky and required too much re-designing the existing set up at the time.

Well, you could do a "puck" style with 3 disks of poly.

Each end disk has a bolt in it with big fender washer. Center disk has a hole in middle for the two bolt heads and washer. All three are bolted together around the periphery.

Thats not a bad idea - only thing is the peripheral bolt heads and nuts will need to be insulated or spaced from the mounting surfaces of the crossmembers.

Glad more people are finally taking notice of the single through bolt problem with many of the aftermarket options :icon_tup:

Yeah, its a shame there's no proper aftermarket mounts available for old school RX's apart from maybe the mazda competition mounts which would be a bit soft for my application.
Using a shock absorber bush and collar on the end of the bolt helps though - I have "puck" style mounts on the gearbox and all the ugly noises of a thrashed TII gearbox were being broadcast through the floor untill i did that.
Havn't done that to the actual motor mounts yet though, and dont think i will for aesthetic reasons.

I did Mazda Comp mounts on my engine, trans, rear, subframes on my FC.

It didn't have any problem with engine moving around with 420ft/lbs torque on slicks.

I was a bit worried because I took off the engine torque brace (it was forcing the engine down on the passenger motor mount bending/cracking my center irons where the motor mount bolts.)

Engine was solid doing pulls on the dyno, never watched it doing drag launches on slicks- but I didn't have any slop in my IC couplers and never had a problem with them working loose.

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I had the "hockey puck" style engine mounts of the FD when I bought it.
Holy hell- loosened all the bolts up front and rattled the entire car and my teeth when the AC was on.

I bought new stock mounts for the FD. $500 ouch.

That's interesting. I'm not really getting thaaat much vibration on mine - it is a built and balaned engine though.
I cant really afford much movement on mine - RHD fb - down pipe is millimetres from the steering box.
Previous set-up used stock mounts, and a rear control arm from the UIM to the strut tower for bracing.
Might go ahead and get a can of that two part liquid bush gunk for Xmas. It appears you only get about a 1/4 of a can though?

Yeah, I am fully expecting to see rotor weights the max 2 letters apart when I rebuild the FD engine.

Rebuild because rotor kissed the side housing wall at only 9,000rpm redline...