JK40C/CD009 Transmission from 370Z on 13B
02-21-16, 10:07 AM
#26
Full Member
Thread Starter
I think you'll be overwhelmed and probably feel that there are still too many, haha.
02-27-16, 12:15 PM
#27
Full Member
Thread Starter
SMALL UPDATE
The car was on the dyno yesterday. Post-session reports from the tuner while in the hot-seat are no driveline vibration or anomalies up until the tested 7000RPM, which is the highest the car would go due to ignition issues under load.
So while a proper baseline or any subsequent pass could not be achieved- it was vibration free up until we decided to call it quits. We need to work on the ignition issues preventing the car from successfully completing a proper baseline or power run.
Sooooo good news and bad news. It's a bit of a heart-breaker, but it's good to know that as of yet, the drivetrain does not need to be removed to have anything rechecked, replaced, remachined, or redesigned.
I think that's a good step in the right direction. I believe I can start compiling a list of parts required and get pricing for the various items so I can put together a price list- with and without the slave cylinder and adapter as an option (which would lower the cost quite a bit as well, and would negate the expense for those of you who may have tilton or ap-racing units already).
The car was on the dyno yesterday. Post-session reports from the tuner while in the hot-seat are no driveline vibration or anomalies up until the tested 7000RPM, which is the highest the car would go due to ignition issues under load.
So while a proper baseline or any subsequent pass could not be achieved- it was vibration free up until we decided to call it quits. We need to work on the ignition issues preventing the car from successfully completing a proper baseline or power run.
Sooooo good news and bad news. It's a bit of a heart-breaker, but it's good to know that as of yet, the drivetrain does not need to be removed to have anything rechecked, replaced, remachined, or redesigned.
I think that's a good step in the right direction. I believe I can start compiling a list of parts required and get pricing for the various items so I can put together a price list- with and without the slave cylinder and adapter as an option (which would lower the cost quite a bit as well, and would negate the expense for those of you who may have tilton or ap-racing units already).
05-05-16, 10:38 AM
#28
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SMALL UPDATE
The car was on the dyno yesterday. Post-session reports from the tuner while in the hot-seat are no driveline vibration or anomalies up until the tested 7000RPM, which is the highest the car would go due to ignition issues under load.
So while a proper baseline or any subsequent pass could not be achieved- it was vibration free up until we decided to call it quits. We need to work on the ignition issues preventing the car from successfully completing a proper baseline or power run.
Sooooo good news and bad news. It's a bit of a heart-breaker, but it's good to know that as of yet, the drivetrain does not need to be removed to have anything rechecked, replaced, remachined, or redesigned.
I think that's a good step in the right direction. I believe I can start compiling a list of parts required and get pricing for the various items so I can put together a price list- with and without the slave cylinder and adapter as an option (which would lower the cost quite a bit as well, and would negate the expense for those of you who may have tilton or ap-racing units already).
The car was on the dyno yesterday. Post-session reports from the tuner while in the hot-seat are no driveline vibration or anomalies up until the tested 7000RPM, which is the highest the car would go due to ignition issues under load.
So while a proper baseline or any subsequent pass could not be achieved- it was vibration free up until we decided to call it quits. We need to work on the ignition issues preventing the car from successfully completing a proper baseline or power run.
Sooooo good news and bad news. It's a bit of a heart-breaker, but it's good to know that as of yet, the drivetrain does not need to be removed to have anything rechecked, replaced, remachined, or redesigned.
I think that's a good step in the right direction. I believe I can start compiling a list of parts required and get pricing for the various items so I can put together a price list- with and without the slave cylinder and adapter as an option (which would lower the cost quite a bit as well, and would negate the expense for those of you who may have tilton or ap-racing units already).
05-13-16, 04:53 PM
#29
Full Member
Thread Starter
This adapter plate has absolutely nothing to do with the R154 or the 1JZ. It is for the rotary engine. You'll have to look elsewhere for an adapter for the 1JZ. Those kits are costly, too.
05-14-16, 10:32 AM
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
It's really up to the user how they'd want to mount it up- though I can provide a photo shortly. I have a number of them, I just haven't sorted through them in a while.
The transmission mount and the shifter location are - AT THIS POINT - up to the person installing the kit.
I do have a number of viable solutions for the shifter location at this point, which I've yet to test because I am not happy with the way the reverse lock-out functions on the relocated shifter assemblies, so I cannot offer that at this time- but it will be a necessity for my person vehicle (not an RX7), so in the near future it will be solved.
Currently, I am at a cross-roads between complexity and cost vs simplicity and features. I will have to do some more work on the shifter assembly by the end of the month to have it in my car as soon as possible. I have a T56 Magnum strike-rod assembly, a GT500 mustang strike rod assembly, and various nissan strike rod units, levers, shifter cups, and odds and ends... and it's still a challenging design exercise to come up with a good reverse-lockout mechanism.
The best way would be to excuse the mechanism from the design all together- but I think I'm close.
05-14-16, 10:33 AM
#33
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Thread Starter
06-03-16, 04:25 PM
#35
Full Member
Thread Starter
Haven't done much work on the shifter setup because I haven't put it in my personal car and I am swamped with other things... The car the setup is in is having another 13B built for it, because of issues with the first motor that turned out to be mechanical.
The shifter design in "theory" is easy to fix, but making an elegant solution that people would gladly buy rather than say "wtf is that piece of garbage" is an order of magnitude more complicated, more involved. So it costs more too. This is not important if you have fabrication skills and would like to fabricate something yourself and hide it under the shift boot. It's not insanely difficult to produce a one-off custom piece if you have the tools and know how to use them.
the Z32 Twin Turbo and Z33/34 or 350z/370z shifter assemblies are not quite the same as most other transmissions in that when you move the shifter to the left and forward into 1st gear, it is not turning the strike rod to the right, and pulling it back (i.e- it is not moving in both opposite directions, only in the forward/back directions. Left and right are mimic'd to the same direction).
Anyways, that's all technical hogwash.
If you want me to get pricing on the adapter kit, minus the shifter relocation- and I can help you figure out a solution that will work for you- we can do that.
PM me
The shifter design in "theory" is easy to fix, but making an elegant solution that people would gladly buy rather than say "wtf is that piece of garbage" is an order of magnitude more complicated, more involved. So it costs more too. This is not important if you have fabrication skills and would like to fabricate something yourself and hide it under the shift boot. It's not insanely difficult to produce a one-off custom piece if you have the tools and know how to use them.
the Z32 Twin Turbo and Z33/34 or 350z/370z shifter assemblies are not quite the same as most other transmissions in that when you move the shifter to the left and forward into 1st gear, it is not turning the strike rod to the right, and pulling it back (i.e- it is not moving in both opposite directions, only in the forward/back directions. Left and right are mimic'd to the same direction).
Anyways, that's all technical hogwash.
If you want me to get pricing on the adapter kit, minus the shifter relocation- and I can help you figure out a solution that will work for you- we can do that.
PM me
04-28-17, 03:42 PM
#36
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hello everyone,
Sorry for the absence. I have been receiving messages from some members here showing interest in the kit, as well as pricing and timeline + any additional info I could share. So I've directed you all here.
Technical Updates:
The car that is currently fitted with this kit made a very conservative 470whp on the dyno with no driveline vibration at 8000+ RPM, which is good.
The engine the kit was tested with was using earlier irons, which I was told were thinner castings than the later ones, and ended up cracking near some fitting or plug (I can't quite remember) which is a known problem on thinner casted 13B irons, apparently. Again, this isn't something I am familiar with, but I was told that it had more to do with the power output and poor casting than anything else.
Upon teardown of the engine after making 470+ whp we came to a number of positive conclusions regarding this kit.
I can now safely say that:
A] the flywheel spacer is machined and designed well, the ARP bolts that thread into the counterweight did not loosen at all, which is a big concern of mine. Some of the VK56 to CD/JK trans adapters make use of a similar spacer and have issues with aluminum flywheels and bolts coming loose. This kit did not show any signs of the same issues with its limited runs on the dyno. This will be further investigated throughout the year if the engine is ever removed from the vehicle again, but so far it's good. Flywheel Fastening = PASS
B] the adapter plate itself was machined to tolerances well within input shaft runout spec. No vibrations from the drivetrain from the motor all the way to the diff. This was confirmed on a dynapack to 7000rpm, and now a roller dyno to 8500rpm or thereabouts. Driveline Vibration = PASS
C] No issues with starter alignment or mounting to speak of. The car starts normally every time. There are very simple starter mods that can be done in about 5 minutes with a die grinder or even a cut-off wheel if you're handy [at least 14 dexterity required], and does not damage the starter or prevent it from being used in a standard mazda transmission at a later date if need be. Starter Fitment = PASS
D] Clutch slave adapter upgrade that was purchased from a Z parts outfitter seems to show signs of wear or running off-center, but I'm not sure if it's excessive or normal at this point. I am working on a separate style of clutch slave upgrade that will undoubtedly outlast most of the other clutch components and is easily rebuildable, cheaper, and much more robust. It will also feature a way better heavy duty bearing from the 350Z, which has the same conical "high speed" face that the original FC/FD does. Hydraulic Throwout Bearing = Still Testing
Pricing & Availability:
Pricing is coming soon.
The clutch slave thing is going to be the only holdup at this point since I don't want to sell a kit that has clutch slave failures repeatedly. Pulling these transmissions is not going to be fun in an unmodified car with the stock rad support and whatnot. I'd like to prevent that from being a normal thing. This means I have a new part of the puzzle to factor in, but it also means that you don't have to buy an "upgrade" slave cylinder from someone else that is 2.5-3 times the cost and is not rebuildable, nor do you have to buy the T56 slave that is used in the colins kit that uses the same bearing as the one in the "upgrade" kit- which at this point seems incompatible with the RX7 diaphragm fingers. That is a decent savings in cost when we get it working- which I already have a solution for, I just need to have it milled an installed.
There are
7-8 currently interested users here on the boards
4-5 currently interested locally
though I know this is only "interest" and not "guaranteed to buy".
In order to get accurate and best pricing, I will need to know who is interested in this kit for real.
admittedly, I simply do not have the funds to produce 20 of these kits and have them sitting around until someone decides to upgrade their drivetrain.
The only other alternative to this kit at this point is the Colins Adapter, and it currently requires an automatic Cosmo 20B bellhousing , and the purchase of their flywheel if you don't have the auto flex-plate and stock flywheel. it also requires the purchase of the T56 throwout bearing (which is virtually the same as the one used in the 350z upgrade kit, so I can't speak to its reliability just yet as we might be having problems with it). With their machined flywheel, the kit is $1200USD, and with the throwout bearing and lines, it ends up being around $1350-1400 USD and I you'll have to upgrade the bearing collar on the slave anyway, so you're looking at around $1500 USD for the Colins adapter.
Currently, it looks like the kit pricing of what I have here would be around $1500-1700 CAD, which is around $1100-1300 USD, but you should be able to use your factory flywheel and not require the purchase of hard to find auto bellhousing and flexplate. It will work with all your stock items. if you are upgrading from a manual setup already. The price COULD go down quite a bit depending on number of people interested, and whether or not the slave cylinder setup needs to be included- but you'd still have to purchase an upgraded slave afterwards if it's not included in the kit. the stock Z one is incompatible and a plastic piece of poop.
The kit will include:
- Adapter Plate for Transmission to Rear Iron
- Starter to Bell Housing Adapter
- Pilot Bushing for Eccentric Shaft
- Flywheel Spacer
- Clutch Slave / Hydraulic Throwout Bearing *pending
- Clutch Slave Mounting Plate *pending
- Clutch Slave Hydraulic Lines *pending
- Fasteners for:
--- Adapter Plate to Rear Iron
--- Transmission/Bellhousing to Adapter Plate
--- Starter Mount
--- Starter to Starter Mount
--- Flywheel to Flywheel Spacer & Counterweight
--- Clutch Slave/Bearing to Adapter Mount
In order to use this kit to put this transmission on a 13B engine you will provide:
- your own driveshaft
- your own manual starter
- your own pressure plate
- your own clutch disc with 350z/nissan T-24 spline
- your own flywheel
- your own counterweight
- your own rotary engine
there are no guarantees that it will fit in an unmodified chassis- as the transmission is quite wide and tall. the kit is simply to adapter the transmission to the engine, and nothing more.
you are responsible for fitting and mounting it into whatever chassis you choose. I repeat: everything outside of the bell housing or clutch/starting system are up to you and/or your fabricator. This kit is not specific to any vehicle.
No, this kit does not work on 2JZ engines. I am not sure why I've received 3 PMs regarding this. It does not work on any other engine other than those tested on.
I would like to open this thread for "interested" users who are serious, and understand the outside costs that are not included in the kit. You have to pay to play with proper transmission solutions. Overall, they are not cheap.
if you are seriously interested, put your name on this list below, and I will soon create a vendor thread or something in the proper forum:
================================================== ====-
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1. <your name here>
Sorry for the absence. I have been receiving messages from some members here showing interest in the kit, as well as pricing and timeline + any additional info I could share. So I've directed you all here.
Technical Updates:
The car that is currently fitted with this kit made a very conservative 470whp on the dyno with no driveline vibration at 8000+ RPM, which is good.
The engine the kit was tested with was using earlier irons, which I was told were thinner castings than the later ones, and ended up cracking near some fitting or plug (I can't quite remember) which is a known problem on thinner casted 13B irons, apparently. Again, this isn't something I am familiar with, but I was told that it had more to do with the power output and poor casting than anything else.
Upon teardown of the engine after making 470+ whp we came to a number of positive conclusions regarding this kit.
I can now safely say that:
A] the flywheel spacer is machined and designed well, the ARP bolts that thread into the counterweight did not loosen at all, which is a big concern of mine. Some of the VK56 to CD/JK trans adapters make use of a similar spacer and have issues with aluminum flywheels and bolts coming loose. This kit did not show any signs of the same issues with its limited runs on the dyno. This will be further investigated throughout the year if the engine is ever removed from the vehicle again, but so far it's good. Flywheel Fastening = PASS
B] the adapter plate itself was machined to tolerances well within input shaft runout spec. No vibrations from the drivetrain from the motor all the way to the diff. This was confirmed on a dynapack to 7000rpm, and now a roller dyno to 8500rpm or thereabouts. Driveline Vibration = PASS
C] No issues with starter alignment or mounting to speak of. The car starts normally every time. There are very simple starter mods that can be done in about 5 minutes with a die grinder or even a cut-off wheel if you're handy [at least 14 dexterity required], and does not damage the starter or prevent it from being used in a standard mazda transmission at a later date if need be. Starter Fitment = PASS
D] Clutch slave adapter upgrade that was purchased from a Z parts outfitter seems to show signs of wear or running off-center, but I'm not sure if it's excessive or normal at this point. I am working on a separate style of clutch slave upgrade that will undoubtedly outlast most of the other clutch components and is easily rebuildable, cheaper, and much more robust. It will also feature a way better heavy duty bearing from the 350Z, which has the same conical "high speed" face that the original FC/FD does. Hydraulic Throwout Bearing = Still Testing
Pricing & Availability:
Pricing is coming soon.
The clutch slave thing is going to be the only holdup at this point since I don't want to sell a kit that has clutch slave failures repeatedly. Pulling these transmissions is not going to be fun in an unmodified car with the stock rad support and whatnot. I'd like to prevent that from being a normal thing. This means I have a new part of the puzzle to factor in, but it also means that you don't have to buy an "upgrade" slave cylinder from someone else that is 2.5-3 times the cost and is not rebuildable, nor do you have to buy the T56 slave that is used in the colins kit that uses the same bearing as the one in the "upgrade" kit- which at this point seems incompatible with the RX7 diaphragm fingers. That is a decent savings in cost when we get it working- which I already have a solution for, I just need to have it milled an installed.
There are
7-8 currently interested users here on the boards
4-5 currently interested locally
though I know this is only "interest" and not "guaranteed to buy".
In order to get accurate and best pricing, I will need to know who is interested in this kit for real.
admittedly, I simply do not have the funds to produce 20 of these kits and have them sitting around until someone decides to upgrade their drivetrain.
The only other alternative to this kit at this point is the Colins Adapter, and it currently requires an automatic Cosmo 20B bellhousing , and the purchase of their flywheel if you don't have the auto flex-plate and stock flywheel. it also requires the purchase of the T56 throwout bearing (which is virtually the same as the one used in the 350z upgrade kit, so I can't speak to its reliability just yet as we might be having problems with it). With their machined flywheel, the kit is $1200USD, and with the throwout bearing and lines, it ends up being around $1350-1400 USD and I you'll have to upgrade the bearing collar on the slave anyway, so you're looking at around $1500 USD for the Colins adapter.
Currently, it looks like the kit pricing of what I have here would be around $1500-1700 CAD, which is around $1100-1300 USD, but you should be able to use your factory flywheel and not require the purchase of hard to find auto bellhousing and flexplate. It will work with all your stock items. if you are upgrading from a manual setup already. The price COULD go down quite a bit depending on number of people interested, and whether or not the slave cylinder setup needs to be included- but you'd still have to purchase an upgraded slave afterwards if it's not included in the kit. the stock Z one is incompatible and a plastic piece of poop.
The kit will include:
- Adapter Plate for Transmission to Rear Iron
- Starter to Bell Housing Adapter
- Pilot Bushing for Eccentric Shaft
- Flywheel Spacer
- Clutch Slave / Hydraulic Throwout Bearing *pending
- Clutch Slave Mounting Plate *pending
- Clutch Slave Hydraulic Lines *pending
- Fasteners for:
--- Adapter Plate to Rear Iron
--- Transmission/Bellhousing to Adapter Plate
--- Starter Mount
--- Starter to Starter Mount
--- Flywheel to Flywheel Spacer & Counterweight
--- Clutch Slave/Bearing to Adapter Mount
In order to use this kit to put this transmission on a 13B engine you will provide:
- your own driveshaft
- your own manual starter
- your own pressure plate
- your own clutch disc with 350z/nissan T-24 spline
- your own flywheel
- your own counterweight
- your own rotary engine
there are no guarantees that it will fit in an unmodified chassis- as the transmission is quite wide and tall. the kit is simply to adapter the transmission to the engine, and nothing more.
you are responsible for fitting and mounting it into whatever chassis you choose. I repeat: everything outside of the bell housing or clutch/starting system are up to you and/or your fabricator. This kit is not specific to any vehicle.
No, this kit does not work on 2JZ engines. I am not sure why I've received 3 PMs regarding this. It does not work on any other engine other than those tested on.
I would like to open this thread for "interested" users who are serious, and understand the outside costs that are not included in the kit. You have to pay to play with proper transmission solutions. Overall, they are not cheap.
if you are seriously interested, put your name on this list below, and I will soon create a vendor thread or something in the proper forum:
================================================== ====-
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1. <your name here>
Last edited by Careless; 04-28-17 at 04:03 PM.
04-29-17, 10:06 AM
#37
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Join Date: Jan 2002
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"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
04-29-17, 01:02 PM
#38
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"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still interested in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
05-03-17, 06:43 PM
#42
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
Just being open here, only reason i would back down is if a Turbo II transmission came up for super cheap.
So just to confirm I read it correctly, the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc (splined for the Nissan transmission) were all from a Turbo II?
Starter can be from any manual 13b right?
Once you have everything mocked up, can you take some detailed pictures and pictures with a ruler/scale? I want how much of my FB tunnel i have to push out the way for this to work.
By the way, thank you for doing this whole project!
Its nice to see experiments and new ideas
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
Just being open here, only reason i would back down is if a Turbo II transmission came up for super cheap.
So just to confirm I read it correctly, the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc (splined for the Nissan transmission) were all from a Turbo II?
Starter can be from any manual 13b right?
Once you have everything mocked up, can you take some detailed pictures and pictures with a ruler/scale? I want how much of my FB tunnel i have to push out the way for this to work.
By the way, thank you for doing this whole project!
Its nice to see experiments and new ideas
06-02-17, 10:14 AM
#43
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: HK
Posts: 1
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Received 0 Likes
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"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
looking forward to the final update
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
looking forward to the final update
06-20-17, 01:29 PM
#44
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
7-Justa2rotor-Tim Brockert
looking forward to the final update
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
7-Justa2rotor-Tim Brockert
looking forward to the final update
07-16-17, 09:02 AM
#45
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
Just being open here, only reason i would back down is if a Turbo II transmission came up for super cheap.
So just to confirm I read it correctly, the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc (splined for the Nissan transmission) were all from a Turbo II?
Starter can be from any manual 13b right?
Once you have everything mocked up, can you take some detailed pictures and pictures with a ruler/scale? I want how much of my FB tunnel i have to push out the way for this to work.
By the way, thank you for doing this whole project!
Its nice to see experiments and new ideas
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
Just being open here, only reason i would back down is if a Turbo II transmission came up for super cheap.
So just to confirm I read it correctly, the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc (splined for the Nissan transmission) were all from a Turbo II?
Starter can be from any manual 13b right?
Once you have everything mocked up, can you take some detailed pictures and pictures with a ruler/scale? I want how much of my FB tunnel i have to push out the way for this to work.
By the way, thank you for doing this whole project!
Its nice to see experiments and new ideas
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
7-Justa2rotor-Tim Brockert
8- cvzg77r
07-16-17, 10:21 AM
#46
Full Member
Thread Starter
I'm not sure how close the aftermarket units are to the factory equipped units in terms of dimensions, but there would be no reason to use a factory clutch anyways. stock Flywheel I could see being used, but the rest needs upgrading, or it's simply not worth it.
I will confirm on the flywheel.
I can't speak to the differences of other starters and whether they work or not. The best thing to do would be to ensure you use the same starter we used on this car, or try another one. There is a small modification to the nose of the starter on the edge of the little window where gear pops into when it's being energized. So as long as the dimensions are the same at the aluminum nose of the starter and the mounting area is identical, it should be fine. I think any starter that bolts onto the Turbo II manual transmission will work in this kit- that seems to make sense to me. But I can only "advise" to use the same one we are using.
You are obviously free to experiment with whatever starters, 1.5kw or 2kw, you feel that you want to try as an upgrade to whatever we used on this car if you have other versions of the starters laying around (if whatever we used is known to have problems or something that I am unaware of in terms of longevity or reliability in the original OEM application). but just be aware that any starter you do use will need a small area ground down and that MAY affect returning it as a core to a rebuilder. But if you do it cleanly enough and tidy it up with some 220G sandpaper before returning a core- they would never know anyways.
IN NO WAY does the starter modification prevent the starter from being used on a stock 13B Turbo II transmission. It is backwards compatible and takes about 60 seconds with a grinding tool of some sort. Just a bit of clearance has to be made on the starter gear "window" due to the angle we had to use to make this starter mount easy to insert and remove with two hands.
Aside from the starter mod, as long as the solenoid is positioned in the same place, it should clear the chassis/firewall/bulkhead area where it curves into the transmission tunnel. I'ts really tight there, as the entire bell housing is about 2" larger in diameter, so 1" all around. It clears fine though, with the solenoid orientation this starter had. Not sure where they are positioned on other rotary starters.
I will confirm which starter is being used.
As posted earlier in this thread, the mounting pads on the body that hold the original transmission mounting bracket to the body and transmission will have to be cut/shaved/ground on either side of the transmission tunnel, because the gear case section of the transmission is about 11-12 inches at its widest point, and contacts those transmission bracket pads.
Last edited by Careless; 07-16-17 at 10:25 AM.
07-17-17, 10:55 AM
#47
Full Member
Thread Starter
Confirmation on parts:
- Flywheel is FIDANZA Turbo II Flywheel.
- Starter is stock Turbo II starter.
It should work with the stock flywheel if they're identical in dimensions, but we haven't tried others.
It should work with other starters if the can be mounted similarily, but we haven't tried others.
Clutch is a bully clutch. Not sure how different the diaphragm fingers or pressure plate heights/shapes are on the RX7 clutches. I think it should work fine with most other clutches.
- Flywheel is FIDANZA Turbo II Flywheel.
- Starter is stock Turbo II starter.
It should work with the stock flywheel if they're identical in dimensions, but we haven't tried others.
It should work with other starters if the can be mounted similarily, but we haven't tried others.
Clutch is a bully clutch. Not sure how different the diaphragm fingers or pressure plate heights/shapes are on the RX7 clutches. I think it should work fine with most other clutches.
08-22-17, 03:02 PM
#48
Junior Member
I would also like to confirm this. I had driven a 370z for 4 years and the transmission in my nismo was great and it would feel very familiar. I'm interested and would to know and confirm where I could source the other items needed.
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
7-Justa2rotor-Tim Brockert
8- cvzg77r
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
7-Justa2rotor-Tim Brockert
8- cvzg77r
08-28-17, 09:50 AM
#49
Full Member
Thread Starter
I don't think this is going to happen, friends.
The cost of production for the kit is far too expensive- even at 15-20 units
In order to sell them for a reasonable price I would have to pay in advance to produce upwards of 40 kits and sit on a pile of adapter kits for the next 2 years, or I would have to forfeit all profit whatsoever and not make even a single penny just to sell 10-15 units.
Having been a part of group buys before, less than 50% of those who are on the list will end up actually paying due to some unforeseen circumstance, so I'm not going to assume any risk with something of this magnitude- it is not an inexpensive investment for anyone involved, including myself.
Therefore it is not worth my time to pursue this any further.
I will report back if anything changes, or the price of labour and materials drops drastically over the next 6 months. (Not going to hold my breath)
The cost of production for the kit is far too expensive- even at 15-20 units
In order to sell them for a reasonable price I would have to pay in advance to produce upwards of 40 kits and sit on a pile of adapter kits for the next 2 years, or I would have to forfeit all profit whatsoever and not make even a single penny just to sell 10-15 units.
Having been a part of group buys before, less than 50% of those who are on the list will end up actually paying due to some unforeseen circumstance, so I'm not going to assume any risk with something of this magnitude- it is not an inexpensive investment for anyone involved, including myself.
Therefore it is not worth my time to pursue this any further.
I will report back if anything changes, or the price of labour and materials drops drastically over the next 6 months. (Not going to hold my breath)
09-12-17, 09:48 PM
#50
I don't think this is going to happen, friends.
The cost of production for the kit is far too expensive- even at 15-20 units
In order to sell them for a reasonable price I would have to pay in advance to produce upwards of 40 kits and sit on a pile of adapter kits for the next 2 years, or I would have to forfeit all profit whatsoever and not make even a single penny just to sell 10-15 units.
Having been a part of group buys before, less than 50% of those who are on the list will end up actually paying due to some unforeseen circumstance, so I'm not going to assume any risk with something of this magnitude- it is not an inexpensive investment for anyone involved, including myself.
Therefore it is not worth my time to pursue this any further.
I will report back if anything changes, or the price of labour and materials drops drastically over the next 6 months. (Not going to hold my breath)
The cost of production for the kit is far too expensive- even at 15-20 units
In order to sell them for a reasonable price I would have to pay in advance to produce upwards of 40 kits and sit on a pile of adapter kits for the next 2 years, or I would have to forfeit all profit whatsoever and not make even a single penny just to sell 10-15 units.
Having been a part of group buys before, less than 50% of those who are on the list will end up actually paying due to some unforeseen circumstance, so I'm not going to assume any risk with something of this magnitude- it is not an inexpensive investment for anyone involved, including myself.
Therefore it is not worth my time to pursue this any further.
I will report back if anything changes, or the price of labour and materials drops drastically over the next 6 months. (Not going to hold my breath)
As an aside, I've been looking at CSC alternatives and found this:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...it-p-7340.html
Do you believe this would have the slightest chance of fitting under an FC?