cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

Hey gang, I wanted to share my experience with using Hylomar 100 Red to hold the water brings in place during a rebuild.

Basically I'm not thrilled with the performance of blue Aerograde Hylomar for this purpose and wanted to try another adhesive/sealant. Since red is resistant to water and antifreeze, it seems like the perfect solution.

So during initial startup following my rebuild, I had copious white smoke exiting the exhaust and figured I was screwed. However after a few startup cycles, the white smoke has stopped and I'm hoping that the red HYLOMAR has cured and bedded-in to form a watertight seal. (Using stock orange Mazda inner orings). Fingers crossed for now.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

It comes in Red?

Man, I've spent too much time in the Shire...

eage8

iTrader: (9)

The orings do the sealing. The white smoke was most likely due to burning off the assembly lube.

I used to use blue hylomar, but in my recent rebuilds started using Vaseline to hold in my viton seals (pineapple racing) and it worked great and makes it much easier to reuse the seals.

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

While a great headline, you're missing the point. Any conforming material at the joint interface does the sealing. While Vaseline get's fully squeezed-out of the joint, Hylomar doesn't - it adds another layer. The oring and the sealing compound does the sealing. And 20 minutes of billowing white smoke wasn't just Vaseline burning off.

While Vaseline works fine for holding the hard rotor seals in place, it's a swelling agent for polymers and is generally considered a bad idea. (Admittedly, it doesn't appear to reduce oring life). Crisco or oring (silicone) grease seems like a better idea.

Viton is awesome.

I agree that red Hylomar is probably even harder to remove than the blue stuff, so if reusability is a concern, it's probably not the preferred solution. My goal is to not continually rebuild my engine though (a guy can dream).

insightful

sure you didn't just accidentally fill the exhaust with coolant prior to pulling the old engine or while pulling it?

been there, done that, except i realize alternate causes for things where most people start running around in circles, yelling and screaming.

i've never had blue hylomar cause initial sealing issues on my builds, with the exception of the outer coolant seals swelling, but they tend to absorb pretty much everything for some reason.

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

One of the factors motivating me to try Hylotyte red was pitting in mating surface of the J-spec rotor housings. I sanded as much of the housing face as practical, but some of the pitting remained and I wanted to see if Hylotyte would fill the roughness that the stock water seals might miss.

I'm not trying to sell the stuff, just reporting my experience. Feel free to use whatever works for you. I figured it was worth a shot versus scrapping otherwise good rotor housings.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I understand where you are coming from, have had some pitted housings before.

I had good luck making a little plane/chisel from a lathe bit and scraping the groove floor flat.

~.~ another time suck...

Gilgamesh

Seems to be very similar except for better gap filling.


Copy/Paste from their website:

HYLOTYTE Red 100

Hylomar Limited is delighted to announce the launch of our new Hylotyte® Red 100.

This new product is a synthetic, semi-hardening, jointing compound that has excellent gap filling properties. The product is resistant to a wide range of fluids, especially water (including salt water and steam), anti-freeze, and synthetic oils.

Features

Highly resistant to steam and hot water

Based on new synthetic polymer technology

Forms an instant seal

Heat activated curing system

Excellent resistance to automotive fluids

Improved gap filling – useable on rough machined and pitted surfaces

Inhibits galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals

Methylene chloride free

Available in 40ml and 80ml tubes