Building the 13B-RE FC ~ Opinions/Advice from the Experts
 

Okay, so Im finally getting my ass in gear and am assembling my 13B-RE (Cosmo) FC setup peice by peice. To get my head straight and my Ideas in order, I'd like to post this thread to get advice/help as this is my first 'BIG' Buildup.

Plans:

I'll be building the 13B-RE with new rotor Housings and rotors and an Aggressive street port. I cant imagine running more than 25PSI of boost so Im NOT going to pin/stud it. I'll use Mazda OEM Seals, as Im more comfortable with them.

*Which stat gears should I use? Im not planning on revving it much more than the stock tach can handle (8000RPM).

Haltech E6X will be the brain and I have 1600cc Injectors for the Secondaries and was thinking 1000cc as primaries.

HKS Manifold and HKS Standard External Wastegate

*GT35R* Heres where Im kinda scratching my chin. I have a T4 GT35R with a .82 A/R and a 3 inch v-band exit (Yes, from RX-7 store). I was thinking to break the motor in and dial it in on this turbo, then switch to the HKS T04Z, which I have a hard on for. At first, Im only willing to make about 400HP. Then, whatever the T04Z makes. however, if this GT35R can step on the toes of the T04Z, then I wont even bother with it. I'll just use the GT35R.

The other thing is Clutch/Flywheel/PP. OS Giken has a farily big selection of twin plate clutches. I cant even fathom deciding on one. Any help?

Im thinking Greddy 2-Row intercooler, as I can get a deal on one. Use Water/Meth injection to make up the rest of the cooling.

Ford 9" Rear end.

TII Transmission - rebuild with OS Giken Gears in it.

Koyo Rad, RB Suspension Etc. The rest is pretty self explanitory. the car is an S4 GX getting the royal treatment.

Thats all my scatter brain can think of for now. Im hoping you guys can help answer questions and fill in the blanks. Im trying to do this setup with most of the labour done myself.

Thanks Guys & Gals.

I have 13b-re engine here in Russia.
I bought koyo rad from subaru WRX cose a standart RE water pump body has not a water pressure cap. It is onto radiator.
U'll need an old FC water pump body to use with FC-FD koyo rad.
The other way is weld a water pressure cap onto aluminium tube between rad and pump body.
I think about it cose I made V-mount.

And I think U'll hit the LIM with this mani and this turbo. I had some pain in the ass since I try to assemble all parts together. :wallbash:

it sounds like you got it preety well covered I might step down to a 850 cc primary injector instead of a 1000cc. and fit dual fuel pumps in the tank banzai racing has a write up on doing this to a fd but would be basicaly the same as far as parts needed.

oh and banzai's trany and engine mounts and they make the engine mount addapters to do this swap as well. I figure you already know all that you've been on here a bit from the looks of it

I come and go on the forum. I was getting out of rotaries for a bit, but didnt feel like I full-filled my rotary needs. So I decided to build another RX-7. I still have alot to learn about Standalones.

I'll probably use a TII waterpump/housing. Stat Gears I'll probably leave if they are in good condition. I was thinking of using S4 Rotors for the Glorious 8.5:1 Compression Ratio instead of FD rotors. We'll see I guess.

I don't think you will need a ford 9" rear, the s4 t2 rear is very strong.

I also think your better off using the 13b-re water pump.

I have a running 13b-re installed in my car with an e8, using stock turbo's.

One of the reasons I chose the 9" Rear (Other than its bulletproof), is that its VERY easy and cheap to change the rear gears. I can go from a 2.90 all the way to a 5.60 if I wanted to. AND they are Dirt cheap and local. Its like an S4 rear end, only without Half-shafts.

Sounds like fun. :) I'll toss in my hat and respond to each post/question.

You wouldn't have to pin the motor anyways with the Cosmo for power levels under 600rwhp, I would say. The iron meat at the upper dowel lands on that motor are of the thicker cast and will withstand much more than the older motors.

Stay with what's in it.

If you plan on staying with 100% race fuel, assuming you have enough pump in the back end, that's enough fuel to support about 630rwhp. That's alot; no need to use 1000cc/min primaries. :)

Will work fine, other than you may encounter boost creep issues if you have a weaker spring and want to run lower boost. I recommend a 10-12psi spring.

Stay with the turbo you plan to use -- Do the job once and don't sweat it thereafter. There's absolutely reason to switch turbos for any "break-in".

Exedy has a nice twin-plate, but I doubt you'll need anything quite that tough unless you're wanting to break 400ft/lbs torque to the wheels, IMO.

Skip water. Stick with methanol, and don't worry about buying a humongoid intercooler at that point. Believe me.

Turbo II Driveline -- 'nuff said. :)

B

I don't know, but I still belive he still needs an Intecooler. The stock one is not great.

LOL, as of right now there is no intercooler. I'm going to go with the 2-Row Greddy. I can always go bigger if needed. I'll go with a 2-stage Methanol injection system.


I was thinking about the fuel system the other day. I was thinking Dual intank Walbro's and a Surge Tank in the back. Im not so sure how to plumb a surge tank so I'll take it to a pro for that one.

I'd like to use the HKS T04Z Turbo with 1.00 A/R. Someone mentioned to me that the Garret T04Z was a deicent choice of turbo. Any opinions? The price makes me skeptical (Compared to the HKS unit).

is your spending this much money on it consider rx8 stat gears they are the best, hardened and only around 80 dollars (come with new bearings), add to this an rx8 e shaft .6 pounds lighter (needs a couple minor mods to work). If you have a choice don't use re stat gears over either rew gears or rx8 gears, rew are 9 window bearings with hardended gears, re and 3 window bearings, gears probably arent hardened as it isn't designed to exceed 6500 or so (auto only)

I have re and rew irons, they are nearly identicle, look to be taken from the same cast.

I would go with the 35r, but then I wouldn't want more than 425-450 whp, (35r has made up to 500), I will be using BNR stage 3 twins, for my final setup.

The 35R will outflow the HKS standard wategate, it is rated at 38mm but the outlet is 32mm, causing huge spikes. You should consider something larger (44+), the Tial 44 is nice but would require a custom adapter on the HKS manifold.

sorry for being off topic here but since i finally found an RE thread i might as well post...but the question is if any of you guys are running some sort of catch can or replaced the charcoal canister??

what mods needs to be done?

Something to do with clearancing I think.


Any thoughts on this motor in a first gen?

If I recall, Alls i really have to do is replace (and modify) the front cover and slap on my SE oil pan.

400+WHP in a 2200 Pound FB. I can only imagine it being similar to that Twin Turbo Ford GT that had a hair-raising ride down the 1/4.

If using rx8 stat gears and rotor bearings I think the only mods are drilling out the oil galley and something similar. I think the clearence mods are related to using the rx8 e shaft with non rx8 rotor bearings and stat gears.

Call mazdatrix and ask them, and search on the forum's for someone who has actually done it. My experience with this is only 2nd hand.

Sounds like too much trouble for little to no gain. (Depending on how you look at it.)

.6 pound lighter e shaft and better (rx8 has 9k rpm redline stock) stat gears and bearings, oh and they are far cheaper. Rx8 stat gears are 88 and 114 for new gears with bearings. Rx8 e shaft is 177. FD stat gears are 309 and 388. So for under 400 you can get better new stat gears and a better new e shaft. Vs 1.1 fd stat gears.

Yeah your right that too much trouble :wallbash:


:wallbash:

Or use the perfectly good ones in the engine for free. But of course, for the budget minded builder, its perhaps an option.