Bridge Port Questions
 

Hi, i am thinking of Bridge Porting my Turbo 2.

Is there any one out there that has done it allready and i could ask what it runs like?

I am going to be useing the car every day and i will be running a T4 1.15ar and all the other goodies, I'm trying to get around 350-400 Rwhp and would like to know if it works as well on turbos as it does on Na engines.

i dont own a B-ported engien but i have seen one and driven in one and man dose it sound nice.

I have also heard mixed opinions on the reliability but i would say it is the biggest port you can do befour you start to really shorten the life of your engien.

the guys ported 3rd gen I drove has been fine up to now.

A full bridge port will give you much more than 400 rwhp with a T4 with 1.15 AR. You can easily do that with a street port. Also, a full bridge port is not the most streetable engine setup... a much better choice (in my opinion) for a street car would be getting a partial bridge port... thats street porting the primaries and putting a bridge port on the secondaries. I've been considering doing this for some time now... do a search on here for a post by exit13b. He did a partial bridge port on his engine... he has some sound clips posted and has documented a lot of what he went through.

MMMMM that sounds intresting? I will have to look into it.

Thanks

I own a 12a bridgeport. Man its slow!! Go Perperal port! That my next goal, once I get a interal engine assembly balanced, 3window bearings, etc, etc, etc. But actually bridgeports are fast if you have a aduquate intake which mine is undersized till I can afford a weber 48 or 51

Is there a dramatic diffrence between (big)Street port and Bridge port in the power gains and delivery? I do know there is little power under 4k.

Whould it make much diffrence if i fitted a realy quick Turbo (spool up), flowed every thing and fitted a smaller IC?

From what i can tell there is a few disadvantages such as the poor tickover, high power band and it is fairly expencive to do compaired to Street Port but is the gains in the "Bhp per Psi" worth the downfalls?

Thanks

with a bridge port you can make the same HP as an extended port but run a couple of psi less because the bridgey is inhaling more than the extended port is

Thats what I am doing now. I saved up and bought an IDA. Any ways I think i am go to start by keeping it at 48 then if I get sick of it go to 51 mm. Any ways I say why do a half job when you can go all the way. Also all I have heard about carbon seals is that they are realy fragil and in most cases to fragile for street engines and with a p port we can use the 2 piece steel's which are stronger, and can handle moer abuse. Thats what I think.

CJG

Of course with a Pport with steel seals you'll only want to go to 8500rpm which is the limit on steel seals. And a PP makes much power beyond that. Stick with carbon seals, and replace them more often? It isn't too hard to pull the engine apart you know. At least thats what I think.

I knew someone with a PP 12A carbon seals that drove it on the street for 21K before freshining it up with new carbon seals and was on his way again. I am sure his miles were more highway then most of us would do though. Also keep in mind that very little thing becomes very critical above 8K as for balancing, hardened stationary's, etc, etc. And definitely a scatter shield with those kinds of rpm!!

At 7500 a PP dumps an extra 150hp in your lap and its hard to control! It goes to 11K fast..Very fast!!!!

Carbon seals are what you will want unless you run boost. Carbon seals won't take boost and detonation. They don't damage the rotor housings like others would, so you can reuse housings over and over, unless you break a apex seal somehow... or some other failure.