anyone w/ 13B bridge and holley 650?
 

i am building a 13B bridge this summer for a little competition b/t friends and we have a cap on the amount of money to be spent. i have another friend that has a holley 650 double pumper and will need to know the baseline for the jets to run a 13B standard bridge. if anyone has a setup from racingbeat, i would be very appreciative for learning what they put in them for this engine application.

thanks

David Sanchez has a 13b bridgeport with a 650 and an RB intake.
http://www.rotarycomponents.com/david11.jpg

do you have a way for me to get in touch with him?

David is a racer so he does not give any info on his setup usually. But if you catch him at the right time he may at least give you some good info.
I am setting up a wireless network for him tomorrow if the cable modem people get him hooked up then like they are supposed to.
He will have email after that. I will PM you his new email when he gets it.
That picture was taken yesterday at NOPI.

Re: anyone w/ 13B bridge and holley 650?
 

Holley 650 for BP 13B---> :)
If it's a standard carb as supplied by Holley.
Start with #67 fuel jets on all four sides.
You're going to have to modify the high speed air bleeds(jets) on the carb. Those would be the inner or the ones closer to the middle of the carb on both the primary and secondary sides. There are eight bleeds on the top of the carb. Four of them are on the primary side and the other four are on the secondary. The outer ones are the idle air bleeds and the inner ones are the high speed bleeds. An easy way to distinguish them would be the larger oners are the idle bleeds and the smaller ones are the high speed bleeds. You're going to be modifying the high speed bleeds only with the use of an 1/16th drill bit. This is also done after removing both fuel bowls and metering(jet) blocks so as to prevent any debris from entering them.
For the accelerator pump squirter a #25 is a good starting point.

crispeed
87 RX-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs
un-tubbed

thanks

so what you are saying is that for starters, open the high speed air jets with the 1/16 bit? that's it? after i get the carb in hand, i'm sure i will see what you're talking about.

now you said the metering (jet) blocks.....what do you mean about that? is that where one would create a hole for the oil metering lines? or is there already a provision?

He said you need to switch to #67 jets and a #25 accelarator pump squirter. He is not talking about oil metering. He is referring to fuel metering.

You know what you need??? More cars. Is this one gonna be done before the 3rd gen or after?

this one will probably be done before the FD. i'm in a debate whether to send my existing turbo off to precision for a little larger wheel or to just scrap it and wait for a money sac to fall in my lap and get the GT35/40 or GT70 kit. you can never have too much.

BTW, josh(the green civic hatch from xtreme) is planning on having his car running 133-6MPH through the traps by the end of the summer. i guess i might have to give up on beating him and just have the total package.... i mean, com'on and FD is WAAAY better than honda

crispeed,

i got the carb the other day and it came off of a guys chevy truck so i'm assuming it is just a standard format double pumper. i am going to take it apart at work today and see what's up with it. went to auto zone to get some 67 jets and they were out. i saw what you meant by the high speed jets in the book that the guy gave me with the carb. going to buy the rebuild kit and start to tinker. if you have any more info that could be of help, oh great one, i would appreciate it.

thanks,
roy

We're running 68 primaries and 73 secondaries. It's a holly 650 double pumper on a bridge ported 13b.

Cooper

i don't know if you're still working on this carb, but I am closing in on the proper tuning for my proform 650 double pumper after a lot of grief. For oil metering, I drilled the fuel bowl on the primary dies and threaded in a nipple fitting that fit the injector lines. I used JB weld on the threads to ensure no lekaing. I canned the power valve because my race ported motor drops vacuum so fast is was going too rich too fast to make any rpm above 6k. I am at 6700 ft so my jet number will be lower than yours, but have 60 primaries and 63 secondaries. I also modded the throttle linkage to accept a fabbed metering control rod to control the pump. I have 74 idle air bleeds and 32 high speed bleeds in the top of the carb. I have just ordered larger (.030) inlet restrictor bleeds for the metering blocks because I have a lean condition at 2000 rpm until I get into the throttle. My engine is a race ported 13B 4 port.

Thank you for sharing!

i always run blowthru holley turbo set up , all motor i ran 69 pri and 72 sec., and i ran no power valve so i had them blocked on primaries and secondaries , one of the things people dont do is mess with rod the conects the primaries to the secondaries this has to be adjusted so the secondaries dont come on too soon like a v8 so you have to bend it till your engine revs all the way , hope this helps
julio

650 holley
 

also have a 650 holley dp on a race port/ full bridge past combustion filled housings o rings with a 7' Camden supercharger before the blower I ran no power valve 76pri 81sec ran great wot I was at 11.9 on afr with the blower at 10lbs I run same pump shot that came from factory with 75 pri 76 sec and a 6.5 power valve on boost wot im at 11.3 on afr keep in mind I did not do any air bleed adjustments out the box venturis and metering blocks no drilling

I'm having the same problem with by bridgeport 13b and holley 650. However, my 650dp is spread bore. Does this make a difference in jetting? My car is running pretty rough and the transition between primaries and secondaries is horrible. Right now I'm running 70 primaries and 80 secondaries with a blocked power valve in th secondaries. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

U need to remove power valve from secondaries put plug in on both side 70 jets all around may be OK depends on bridge but u need to remove power valve a bridge cannot produce much vaccum for holley due to such overlap from port timing also when I ran all motor I ran a a open spacer which helped the transition depending manifold for rotaries are four barrel the spacer helps ,volley see vaccum equally

I'm running a spread bore to square bore spacer. And its the jetting the same for a spread bore as a square bore?

Should you plug the power valve or leave it in?

Thank you. I drilled the high speed air bleeds prior to your response. I'm just now getting back into tuning it. So, block both power valves, run 70's all around (doesn't matter if it's spread bore or square bore), anything else?

Yikes. Shouldn't have to mess with the high speed air bleeds but the idle air bleeds will make better on the street. Lean condition at low rpm is normally caused by idle trans slot not being visable beneith the blade at idle. It gets vacuum at light throttle then goes lean, idle trans slut must see vacuum at idle.

67 primary great start point 80 secondarie start to be safe. Pink cam primary #3 position. 31 squirter.

I ended up getting a Holley 600 dp square bore from a buddy top start from scratch. I'll start by plugging the power valves and running 70s all around?

Thanks for the info. My throttle plates started sticking bad on the spread bore so I grabbed a square bore 600 from my buddy. No drilled air bleeds.

The larger the air bleed the larger the jet will have to be. It can also effect whether it gets richer or leaner with rpm. For street use the idle air bleed can be tuned for low end drivability but ive never found it necessary to mess with the hi speed air bleed.

You will need short jet extensions and large needle and seats. I only trust the areomotive fuel pressure regulator 13301 and mount it as close to the carb as possible.

I have also considered using 4an line from the regulator to each bowl on the carb. I haven't tried it yet but 4an is still much larger than the opening in the needle and seat and the less fuel between the regulator and the bowl the faster it can regulate the pressure, this should help prevent flooding after heavy boost. EFI pump 6an from tank and 6-8 an return. Theater the return the better.

Thank you for your help. Looking back on this I realize how little I knew. Since then I have pulled my motor apart and found out the person I bought it from lied about it being bp, it was only street ported. This is why I was having such a tough time getting it to run right (BP timing, carbs, jets, etc.) I'm in the process of figuring out a new set up and possibly starting from scratch. Any suggestions? I currently have a 74 13b 4 port large street port with an RB Holley Intake, RB headers & exhaust, msd blaster coils, stock dizzy. I've got a holley 650 spread bore, holley 650 square bore and a holley 600 square bore vacuum secondary(came on care originally). Thanks again for all of your help.