anyone have the install guide for mazdaspeed dry sump
 

title speaks for itself.
technically i'm not using the mazdaspeed part, but i need to know what needs to be changed in the block to facilitte any particular dry sump configuration.

here is current plan:
*change over to Gilmer pulleys (alt, water pump, and main)
*make a braket to hold the 4 stage pump i just perchased (positioned on spark-side of block)
*remove suction tube and replace pan with 1/4 steel plate.
*drill and tap hole in rear port-side corner for scavenge #1
*drill and tap hole in middle port-side edge for scavenge #2
*scavenge 3 is for turbo oil
*remove stock oil pump from front cover
*plug oil cooler return in front cover (M16x1.5 bolt)

the question is: what do i do about the stock pressure regulator(s)? there are 2 right?
the dry sump kit i purchased comes with an oil pressure regulator valve, so do i just shim the stock regulators to go balls-out and then control the oil pressure with my new regulator? maybe i remove the stock ones completely? anyone have any ideas?

Sounds like you are on the right path. Contact Clr motorsports His name is Carlos.

He will be able to steer you in the right direction. http://clrmotorsports.com/

Good luck with your project.

I have not set up a dry sump system, but from what I understand of how the system works-

On an external pump system, you will want to block/shim/disable the front pressure regulator that regulated the pressure leaving the pump. Now set the new external pump outlet regulator low enough it won't inflate your oil cooler when the oil is cold.

Block the front cover oil OUTLET to the oil cooler.

Block the oil pump where the stock pump body bolted so you don't have a massive system bypass.

Install the adj. race oil pressure regulator in the rear plate and have your oil enter from the oil cooler here like stock.

Put a block off plate at the stock filter pedestal location with a loop line over to the front plate oil galley to help decrease pressure drop.

Draw your scavenge sections through lightly peforated tube to prevent pooling of oil anywhere that will slosh up and out your "crank" vents.

Consult someone who has set up a dry system on a rotary before because I don't know what the heck I am talking about but am hoping someone will correct me on what I have typed if it is incorrect so that I know how to do it :P

yes that sounds logical. i took a closer look at my spare engine yesterday. i think i can eliminate the stock oil pump, timing chain, front regulator, and just plug the front cover oil outlet with a bolt.

for the information of others, here is how the oil path works in the region between the oil pan, and the oil cooler...

oil is sucked up from the pan by the pickup tube. the pickup tube is bolted to the bottom of the front iron near the middle of said iron. after the oil is sucked through the tube, it travels through a short passageway in the front iron to the suction side of the stock 2 stage pressure pump. when the presureized oil leaves the pump it travels back into the front iron and makes a bee-line toward the spark side of the engine. after a few inches it makes another 90 degree turn toward the front of the engine. at this point it leaves the front iron and enters a passageway in the front cover. at this point it encounters the front regulator. the regulator lets some oil flow down back into the pan while the majority flows out through the hole in the front cover that leads to the oil cooler.
as i said, i can't see any reason any of these components or passageways need be used when using a "universal" dry sump system.
one thing i still am not sure about though:
the oil drains into the pan from the port-side of the read iron and the middle iron. there is no obviouose drain location in the front iron like the other two. are these the only 2 spots that oil comes out of the bottom of the block?
i am not including the rear regulator.
speaking of the rear regulator, that leads me to another question. if one regulates the oil with an external pressure regulator, can the REAR regulator be blocked off too? i don't see any reason why not, but most people recomend replaceing the rear regulator with a race spec one (to allow less oil to be blead off presumably). can't it be blocked completely?

sorry for the long post.