2 piece apex seals....
 

Hi ppl,

Just got good used houisngs and started the rebuild with my mechanic.... this is our first rotary rebuild.. we r following the manual and Bruce turrentines rebuild video...

The problem is that we r using Rotary aviation 2 piece seals... When we install the first rotor and then lift the eccentric shaft 1 inch to slide the intermediate housing in.. the corner piece of the apex seal pops off... sometimes from one at times from more apex seals... and sometimes its a pain to look for them...

In thev video i noticed that the 3 piece seals that bruce used slid into each other.. what do i do with these two piece seals... Do i need to glue them together.... Its very frustrating...

Please help... I am still on the front rotor.. Will go there in the morning.. Please reply Soon

Also all the corner pieces are supposed to face towards the flywheel right... My mechanic thinks otherwise.. can that be.. i am skeptical cuz in the video it clearly says that all corner pieces apex seals are supposed to face the flywheel...

Please help urgent....

Engine assembly lube---LOTS of it.

Tried it still pops off.. tried petroleum jelly too....

Can i use super glue if yes how..

thanks

On the 3 piece seals, the corner seal is usually glued to the top seal from the factory. I know that you can use super glue to reattach the corner to the top piece on these. I'm not sure if the two piece seals would work the same way, but from looking at pictures of them on the RA site, I don't see why it wouldn't work the same way. The best way to do this would be to find a very flat surface (the center plate works very well for a working surface). Put just a few drops of glue on the angle where the two pieces fit together and then put the corner piece on. I use a gel type of super glue, so I usually have a few seconds to align the pieces. You can use a razor to scrape the seal off of the plate if the glue overflows a little.

yeah, my factory mazda 2 piece seals came glued together. Thats really the best way to do it.

Thanks a million guys... Used superglue.. it worked very well for me... Installation became very easy.. Thanks

Ok one more question..The first rotor is supposed to go in one apex seal facing twelve o'clock... i did that... then after the intermediate housing the eccentric shaft has to be moved to the six o'clock position and then the rotor has to be installed in the six o'clock position...

I do remember that the second rotor was at the six o'clock position but i do not remember if the eccentric shaft was moved to the six o'clock position... Can that happen.. I mean is it possible that the rotor was facing 6 o'clock but the eccentric shaft was not...

I am thinking of taking off the side housing and confirm...

Have checked the compression on the stand.. In three complete rotations it does make 6 strokes or chubs.. Is that an indication that everything is ok inside??

Thanks for all you help guys.. really really appreciate it..

I just glanced at the factory service manual and it says to turn the e-shaft so that the rear journal faces the intake and exhaust ports before putting on the intermediate housing (that would be at about 3 o'clock as you look down at it). I didn't see anything about turning it to 6 o'clock before putting on the rear rotor. I've been told to put the front rotor on at 12 o'clock and the rear at 6 o'clock, and it sounds like that is what you did. I would guess that you are OK since you are getting 6 good pulses when you turn the motor.

No, this cannot happen yaar.

Ok guys.. thanks alot for the info

The engine is in the car.. just put it in today... but the problem is that it does not start...

if i keep cranking at times it seems likes it tries to fire up but does not....

The same happened when i installed my last engine.. the only thing is last time i did not rebuild it...

Please tell me what to do... is this normal...

last time i let it sit for a night and the next morning it fired up...

Please help....

It's probably flooding, which is not uncommon for new engines before they break in.

Also, the plugs could get fouled a couple times before you get it to start nicely.

Ok i took off all the plugs and took out the egi relay... then cranked the car to check compression by placing my hand over the leading plug holes.... There is compression and it is not bad in all three faces of both the rotors....

Why would'nt it start

Will try push starting it tonite

I dunno about push starting, hook up a big truck and pull it, dump the clutch in 3rd.

It has started without pull starting....:)

Thanks alot guys for all your help...

Now i need to know how to give it a proper run-in... I can't wait to floor it but at some posts in the forum i have read that i need to run it in for about 3000 miles...
I'll need lots of control not to drive it fast before that..

Also i read that there should be no boost for the first 500kms... how do i do that.. with the sequentials boost is diffcult to avoid... the max i hit was 1.5psi is that ok?

Also these are Rotary Aviation hard seals how do i run them in...

For the time being i have put up three fans infront of the car and have told my driver to let it idle for 20 mins and then turn it off and let it cool for an hour and then again start it up for 20mins.....Is this a good idea or does this have any bad effects.. I told him to keep an eye on the temps still.....

thanks a lot guys

1) run for 45 mins after first start up
2)0-500, be sorta gentle, i do rpms up to 3k
3)500-1000, i do rpms up to 4k

but thats just me, there are other different break in procedures

Ok i have driven it 260 kms in 2 days... i need advice on the following break in procedure that i have come up with but am not sure of.. Please tell me if this would be wrong..

I drive the car for 1500 kms under 3000rpms
alongwith this i let it idle for 30 mins..5-6 times a day with an hourly interval and three fans on the engine with the hood open...



Ok this method i am contemplating because i am at work the whole day... and i can't wait to drive the car fast... 3000kms break-in period will take ages... will the above method be ok...

Is there any other convinient method...
My engine was rebuild using Rotary Aviation Master rebuild kit