2-cycle oil
 

Eh guys what two cycle oil should I run?

If you are running pump gasoline, then any 2-stroke oil that is rated TC-W3. I use Valvoline.

Im trying out Protek R from Pettit Racing, its made specifically for rotaries, so I think it makes more sense then regular 2 stroke..? But thats just me

IMO 2 stroke oil is 2 stroke oil. There may be more/different additives between brands. BUT, they HAVE to share most properties to get the certification (tcw-3 for example)

I run wally world brand 2 stroke tc in mine, got a good 3k miles on it since i've started to premix. Runs great and smells like a chainsaw while idling, best 2 things i could ask for lol

Thats true, but the additives can make a big difference. All of them are at least TCW-3, but then they can go above and beyond.

I used to run Klotz in my old FD and I could get sick smelling that exhaust hahaha

I guess a good option would be TC-W3 two stroke oil for two stroke outboard marine engines...as they apparently run hotter than your average engine or at least have higher combustion temps...

You would think a small 2 stroke (weed wacker, chainsaw etc) would run hotter than an outboard due to only being air cooled, while most, if not all, outboards pull water up from the outdrive to help cool the motor

Makes sense...but at the same time maybe the outboard engine runs soo hot it needs water cooling as opposed to the chainsaw/weed wacker that can get away with just air cooling? Haha I really have no idea...

But as you said 2-stroke is 2-stroke...better anykind than nothing...eh?

I usually run idemitsu but I have easy access to it.

In the effort to glean information, I asked someone I know that races two cycle dirt bikes. He said Bell or any other top brand synthetic. He said the bikes he builds benefit more from things like ceramic bearings and some other stuff than the type of oil in the gas.

This is what a good 2 stroke oil burns like.

The ash is soft and will wipe off with your finger ... notice the two finger wipes, one the face of the rotor and one one the pocket.
The second rotor has been wiped with a blue paper towel.

This was 50k miles on Quicksilver Premium 2-stroke using the MOP.

Barry

I run redline synthetic racing 2 stroke oil through the omp and I premix some as well. It's definitely lubricating inside the engine, I can see some of the oil on the plugs as well, it burns clean, and the feedback from the dirt bike owners have all said positive things about it. A redline rep said that they have run the oil in rotaries successfully using .75oz per gallon. I have been running around .5oz per gallon to .75oz per gallon.

The cream of the crop product that seems to be the best of the best is called Legend ZX-2SR.

ZX-2SR | Legend Performance Inc.

It meets every standard and even the more Strict JASO standards.

Need to make sure it burns ashless right?

I think almost all 2 stroke oil is ashless now due to the EPA standards, but i could be wrong

I was searching for the same thing and came across something on a aviation forum.

They had a row of many identical rebuilt engines with different brands of premixes in each one and ran them for many hours on a stand. Then tore them down for inspection.
One was Pennzoil TCW-3 and it did just as good as high cost oils.

They say it's good and good for protecting against engine wear and low ash. Pennzoil TCW-3 is around $20 a gallon now, there's really no sense in spending $50+ a gallon.

If it's good for aviation where your life depends on it, it's good for my car..

Im kind of on the same page with others about pre-mix oil.......pre-mix oil is pre-mix oil. I stick with a name brand for peace of mind, but just so you know the generic brands are still made by the big companys.

Hope this helps and saves you money.

From time to time i usually pick this up from Oreilly's Auto.


http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...ycle-qtnew.jpg

I use Speedway because all Speedway gas stations carry it, and it's only $5/quart. Roughly 8oz/5gal when driving around town and on highway.

When racing, I use the Lucas synthetic. Roughly 2oz/gallon.

Testing at the drag strip netted better and better MPH the more oil I was adding, confirming some suspiscions that I'd been having. Even glorping a quart of 30w oil (less ash/deposit producing additives compared to multiviscosity) into the tank is a huge benefit. Note that I spin my engines hard and I use non-Mazda seals, which seems to be a factor.

just cause it says FC FD on the bottle doesn't mean it was made for rotarys :lol:

There's way too much paranoia on this subject. All 2 cycle oils serve a similar purpose so it doesn't really matter what you use in a rotary. As long as they burn, your good. I used whatever I could get my hands on at the gas station with my rebuilt NA fc engine with RA seals. 9 yrs and 45k later, she still started right up after sitting for the last 5yrs. No carbon lock, no hiccups, nothing but vroom-broom. That's real world results. It was always said that RA Seals wear housings??? Well I reused the same housings that were in the engine when it 1st blew. Scratches and all!! I don't have compression problems as I run premix as the omp doesn't work.

Thanks for Info I like hearing positive on Rotary Builds , I've Bought klotz since I don't have a OMP on my RX-7 so going to try it and will check out that o'reilyes product too.

^ On the street .5oz per gallon should be plenty.

Thanks

One nephew works in advance one cousin works in O'reilly's and a good friend works in the speed shop in Pep Boys so I'm hoping i get some discounts lol

short answer- any 2-cycle oil is better than the MOP pumping nasty engine oil in there. There definitely are better and worse kinds, but IMO, the cheapest stuff you can find is still fine.

As far as quantity, there have been several experiments on this, from both guys on this site as well as Mazda and Curtiss Wright, and all of them say the more premix you run the more power you will make. I use 8 ozs per fillup because it is a convenient amount, but better to err on the high side than the low.

I would use 1oz/gallon as a bare minimum. The factory injection drooled it into the carburetor/manifold or directly into the rotor housing or both, where it pretty much went directly where it was needed. When you premix, a lot of the oil never makes it to the rotor housing surface, it goes in and stays in the air and gets burned and blows out. So I firmly believe that if you premix, you should go well over and above what the oil metering pump would inject engine oil.

So that is why I throw in about 8 ounces per 5 gallons on the street, and maybe 2oz/gallon when racing.

Doesn't too much premix lower the octane? This is something turbo guys have to watch out for and not necessarily us NA guys. I noticed on my own 20b that when I accidentally put more than 1oz per gal, the engine was way more flood prone. I need to check the 2 cycle oils density level compared to fuel because what I may have been experiencing is the oil settling towards the bottom of the tank and that being pumped through as fuel. This of course only happened when the car sat up for a few days.