soo guys...what will 300-350 rwhp fc beat?
 

anybody have firsthand experiences?

anything that is slower than it and possibly some "faster" cars with bad drivers. just go out and try it AT THE TRACK sometime and see who you can race/beat while you're there.

I dynoed 305WHP. during 90+ degree day. I beat: SRT-4's modded, killed a WRX modded, MR2 boosting 25psi, Lightning modded, Integra GSR turbo, DSM's, and I hung with a Supercharged Firebird that had 383 stroker. These races were at night in cold air, so I most likely had more than the 305WHP I dynoed. My car is 88 tii w/ T04E boosting close to 20 PSI. And the motor has a blown rear apex seal (or 2?). I've been driving it around for months blown. It's funny to see the peoples expression when you tell them its blown AFTER you beat them!! haha.

Dude are you serious? :eek:

Car will not run with blown apex seals.

:bsmeter:

this is not so ture.... it just wont run good wiht blown apex seal 1 seal out of 5 it could still run and be driven....not that i would do it. but it could run with a bad seal

well, assuming you weigh around 2700lbs, 300whp gives you a power to weight of about 9 lbs to 1 hp. 350whp is 7.7 to 1.

350whp has better power to weight than C5 Z06 vettes.. which run low 12's at 115-116 on average. some hit high 11's at 117-118 in cooler weather.

i'd say a 350whp FC is about high 11's on good tires well driven. more likely 12.0-12.3 range at 115-117 as well.

so you'll beat just about everything out there stock. stock 03-04 cobras and Z06's will be a close race with 350rwhp in a FC. 350rwhp in a FC will beat bolt on LS1 fbodys. BPU supras too.

300whp wont do as good against those cars. bolt on LS1 cars will probly run you with 300whp. but it will be close race.

You're welcome to come over anytime you want and hear the 1 whoosh (or was it 2, can't remember) in the back rotor. She takes a while to start up, I even have to push start it sometimes, but she starts and drives like a champ. Just doesn't idle good. At idle it sounds like a v8 with a really big cam overlap, friends tell me, but under boost you know its a rotary.

Hmm, I think I might weigh closer to 2600lbs, no AC, no PS, some interior is gutted, and I took out other stuff, can't remember. Its a stock block 13B-RE, and the turbo is a 60 trim. BTW it does feel close to 330-340WHP at night according to my butt dyno. I spin 1st, second and 3rd on some good 225's. BTW the torque was 247lb/FT, not sure what RPM, but the 305WHP was at 6500RPM.

305whp is still very strong. your talkin mid 12's still which is enough to take on most stock cars. 350whp will crack 11's

(lol) I actually smoked a pretty serious DSM Talon with a cracked apex-seal and my old stage 1 hybrid turbo. I didn't know I had a cracked an apex-seal until about a month later (compression test). But yeah, you're right--it will run and drive just fine, but there's no reason for a (misleading BS flag) lol. :D

~Erik

I had two blown apex seals and my TII could barely even hold idle and the flames were pouring out of the exhaust. I almost didn't make it home after it happened. Perhaps they are cracked, but blown? My rotor was destroyed and the housing, and mid and rear housing were toast too.

You can definitly drive the car with a blown apex seal...cuz I did for a month. Then it blew completely but it was in need of a full rebuild anyway. So I just drove it hard until...BOOM!
My car with everything I have in my signature was faster than a stock turbo2... And my rear rotor was shot. One face had like one psi. The total buildup of the rear was like 80. The front was like 90 but equal pressure on each face...not good at all. :bluesuit:

Oops here's my setup.

BTW guys the dyno was on 87 octane gas, including all the other races. But I didn't blow my motor due to low octane fuel, I just about redlined 5th and poor 255 walbro ran out of steam. My future plan is for dual walbros.

a t04 turbo and a 13b-re what psi was that at cause i would think you should easily be at 400whp with that

Yea me too, but not with a blown motor. I dynoed with the rear rotor blown. and it was close to 20 psi.

yeah thats true its hard without a healthy motor are you rebuilding right now
i was gonna go with an re motor but didnt kinda curious to see how well one can do
i blew a seal a few months ago but it was a decent chunk missing it ran for a few weeks but would not hold an idle below 1,500 so now she is gonna be better than ever and damn 20psi besides it being a t04e what are the specs of the turbo i am in the search of a new turbo and just seeing what is out there

wow u tapped out a walbro 255? usually thats enough to feed most fuel requirements

i wasint callin any BS on you...i just quoted rotorforce and i was sayin that you can drive with a bad apex seal

cheers PaTricK

eh not me, I was damn near close to 7k in 5th, not sure how fast that is as my speedo is broken. Id say 165? At least that's what the firebird guy told me, after giving me mad props, he said his car had to be in the 11's!

Any way my car is 88 tii
stock block 13B-RE
60 trim t04e .96 exhaust .60 comp
OBX manifold
H-mount intercooler w/ a huge spearco core
850 primaries, 1600 secondaries
chevy double pass radiator
Microtech LT-8 tuned by me
RE Amemiya dual FULL 3" exhaust, doesnt narrow down like every other dual.
Borla XR-1 as midpipe

BTW I'm taking apart the motor pretty soon as my gf was nice enough to buy me some apex seals. And I have a spare tii motor, so I'm using those housings, and maybe streetport. So I'll post up pictures in another thread as soon as this goes down.

thats sweet, blown rotor racing