|
Track car 10th AE project
this is my track car project thread, i made one in the 2nd gen but after a while i should have put this in the race tech section, so here it is now. this has been a grueling project because i didnt know what to do with the car in the first place and i lagged it so much i was to a point i was going to sell it but things went my way and now its a keeper.
the car is an 88 10th anniv. t2 swapped with a 13B-RE, going single conversion, plan to get atleast mid 400hp to 500hp just a quick parts list: haltech E8 kg parts fuel rails 1000cc primaries 1600cc secondaries SARD FPR 2 walbro or aeromotive fuel pumps MSD ignition module (undecided) msd coils(undecided) havent decided on a turbo yet but its 3 im looking at T04R, T04S, T-70 http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...penresized.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...talresized.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...earresixed.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...KEMANIFOLD.jpg after a couple months of debate among myself and other issues to overcome i made my decison to convert to single and go all out on this car. i always wanted a race car to race and keep. and now its be coming reality. |
Nice!! Makes me want a 13b re, those ports are huge
|
Nice, I feel like taking my engine apart now...
|
turbo
I use a turbonetics 60-1 ball bearing (full sized) w/ a 96 hot side. p trim It makes 455 rwhp/365tq on a heavily ported S4 13BT
I wouldn't go any bigger than this or a GT35R unless you plan to run 20+ psi. |
Haltech
Also if you are serious about road racing a rotory don't use the Haltech. opt for a Motec. Yes the cost more but I will vouch for the difference in the way the car runs. I have absolutly no hesitation, stumbles, or lean spots. My car was dyno'd in November it made 405 with a Microtech. That ECU took a crap at the track after my alternator died. I went Motec M2R and I gained 50 hp with changing the TPS, coils, and ECU only. Same dyno same tuner and same boost settings. The car runs awesome. It runs as smooth as a new car. We overlayed the two dyno runs and they were night and day. The Haltechs and Microtechs don't seem to be able to keep up with the needs of a turbo road race rotory motor. They are fine when you are either at idle or full throttle (Drag Racing), but it is my opinion that with a modulating throttle with varying load conditions there are rich and lean conditions that can't be ironed out within the tune. We tuned every 250 RPM from idle to 8500 rpm. Motec is simply the best option for our cars it cost twice of what a Haltech does but what does a rebuild cost these days? Good luck with your build
|
What are you doing about Water and Oil cooling?
|
Originally Posted by Flynbryn
(Post 7871708)
I use a turbonetics 60-1 ball bearing (full sized) w/ a 96 hot side. p trim It makes 455 rwhp/365tq on a heavily ported S4 13BT
I wouldn't go any bigger than this or a GT35R unless you plan to run 20+ psi. i was planning to boost higher than 20 but saw that most werent even boosting no where near 20+psi so i decided against it, but i dont want to get a turbo that will choke and on top of that i would like it to actually provide well enough power through out the powerband |
Originally Posted by Flynbryn
(Post 7871740)
Also if you are serious about road racing a rotory don't use the Haltech. opt for a Motec. Yes the cost more but I will vouch for the difference in the way the car runs. I have absolutly no hesitation, stumbles, or lean spots. My car was dyno'd in November it made 405 with a Microtech. That ECU took a crap at the track after my alternator died. I went Motec M2R and I gained 50 hp with changing the TPS, coils, and ECU only. Same dyno same tuner and same boost settings. The car runs awesome. It runs as smooth as a new car. We overlayed the two dyno runs and they were night and day. The Haltechs and Microtechs don't seem to be able to keep up with the needs of a turbo road race rotory motor. They are fine when you are either at idle or full throttle (Drag Racing), but it is my opinion that with a modulating throttle with varying load conditions there are rich and lean conditions that can't be ironed out within the tune. We tuned every 250 RPM from idle to 8500 rpm. Motec is simply the best option for our cars it cost twice of what a Haltech does but what does a rebuild cost these days? Good luck with your build
i did opt for a motec but what set me back was obvious enough was the price, but ill look into it more but if i can find a good deal on a motec ill get that but hows the software is it user friendly? |
Originally Posted by 88GT
(Post 7871766)
What are you doing about Water and Oil cooling?
|
Cool color...
|
T04Z sounds about perfect for your setup... great track turbo especially with a bridge port
|
finally an update!!!!
so alot has been going on duringthe past months and now i have a new track car and some goodies!!! to begin im finishing the car i have aquired(used to be my cousins) now its mine..lol... heres a couple of pics of the new car...
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...rlover/088.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...rlover/087.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...rlover/093.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...rlover/094.jpg it was t2 swapped but the engine blew so he was bitchin that rx7's blow and they guzzle gas....etc, etc..same old yapping, so from this http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...rlover/114.jpg to this: http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...DSCI0068-1.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...r/DSCI0069.jpg http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...DSCI0067-1.jpg it still needs a couple more things, wastegate, ecu, DP, fuel pump, and we can fire this bad boy....t70 turbo so lets see how it goes... |
I sure hope you've got plans to upgrade the suspension, brakes, wheels and tires to match. You CANNOT just double or triple the power in the car and take it to the track without upgrading the rest without some nasty concequences (I've seen this exact upgrading path end in a crash in the first session on track). You'll need some seriously wide tires to handle the power (a rebuilt diff should be in order too), some big wheels to hold those tires, maybe a widebody to cover them, a suspension to keep those big tires planted and some big brakes to deal with the heat of slowing it down.
Really, you're going at it backwards, what you should be doing is making sure the suspension, wheels, tires, brakes and so on are all up to the task, then working at making more power. You DON'T need power to go fast and you DON'T need to modify your car to get on track, and if you're a novice, without a doubt, the weakest, slowest link is you, the driver. You'll also learn more if you've got a slower car (takes more work to go fast, power won't be masking errors). Not to brag or anything, but just this last weekend I was lapping Race City in Calgary with the advanced students at a BMW club driving school and despite being the lowest powered, cheapest car on track I was still chasing down and passing some seriously powerful cars (M5, STi's, M3's). That's because my car's much faster in the turns due to the race suspension, race tires and race brakes. I'm not saying this to discourage you or anything, I'm just hoping that you see the light and make the changes before you go and crash your project. |
^ not at all i know my views are just entirely the same as yours and ive planned everything from transfering power to the ground since day one,ive done constant research on and offline, plus i already have my some of my suspension modified, but in terms of power i wont be doing 500hp on the first rimes ill be cranking boost later on...i have not had alot of time on the track but i do have some exprience so thats why im here on this section since its the people on here give much better advice, but what you said is what ive already taken to content,
no discouragement whatso ever its just time and money(there WAS a time i wanted to sell due to lack of funds) theres still more i need to do, but to me its finding quality parts, in terms of being reliable to its task and not having to keep replacing after every session, at least it can withstand a couple abuses.. but thanks for the advice, p.s i started on the engine because i wanted to get it started but things went totally different as to whats was actually planned for the car.. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:28 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands