Stock radiator/ cool temps/ turbo
 

I have been doing a few track days on my stock (essentially) 87 TII. I am running the stock radiator. My temp guage doesn't go anywhere near half way. It is usually at most 1/4 up the guage.

I don't have A/C, so there is really nothing blocking the rad other than the oil cooler. I am running straight water with one bottle of water wetter.

Does anybody else have similar results? Is this odd?

If this is very odd, I will get an aftermarket temp guage. Those of you that are running aftermarket temp guages: Where did you plumb yours in?

Thanks!

Rob

not really odd, just running that cool! :)

Stock temp gauge is next to worthless. The back of my water pump housing was drilled and tapped for a sending unit while my motor was apart for a rebuild. You can also install it in the filler neck on an S4 but be aware that if the thermostat fails for some reason the hot water won't escape and get to the sending unit to let you know it's overheating.

The S4 temp gauge isnt too bad. It at least reads somewhat linear.
The S5 gauge is a different story.

Do you have all the stock ducting still intact? Mine was missing and caused my ported NA to heat up pretty easily with the stock rad.

By "stock ducting" I assume that you meant the undertray? If you are missing the undertray, you will certainly have cooling problems.

As for taps for h20 temp sensors, you can also get the inline ones which splice into the upper radiator hose. Here is an example I googled, but there are others out there:

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...cessories.html

As Gene indicated, probably the best place is to tap the thermostat housing so if you thermostat fails then you will see the "hot" side temps. However, if your stock gauge is still working then you are covered - if you see your stock gauge reading "warm" and the aftermarket (radiator side) one says "cool", then you know your thermostat is FUBAR.

Good luck,

-bill

The ducting I was referring to is the 2 or 3 piece plastic molding over the AC evap and rad overflow.
It is certainly a good idea to install a temp sensor pre-thermostat, but that isnt always an option. The 1/2" NPT fittings that come with most mechanical temp gauges WONT fit before the thermostat. Inless you relocate the alternator or are running a different intake manifold. I had to weld a 1/2" NPT bung onto my thermostat housing to get mine working.
Granted, you could always use an electric gauge with a 3/8" NPT sensor, but you have to pay out the ass to get an electric gauge in full sweep.

I have a dual digital electric gauge by SPA that has oil and water temp, and has niceties such as two color choices for backlight (red or green) peak recall, choice of C or F, and settable warning blinker for each readout. For temperatures I like it much better than an analog gauge. Wasn't cheap though, $250ish IIRC.

Sould pretty cool. Too bad it cost 1/4 of what I paid for my car! I have autometer 2 5-8" full sweep mech gauges in oil press and water temp. I think I paid less than 100 for both with mounting hardware. I really would rather have electric gauges so I wouldnt have to run copper tubing and hot fluids into the cabin, but college is expensive.

True...

What major are you? Does your college have a Formula SAE team?

I go to IUPUI in Indianapolis. We are the only or at least the first university to have a bachelors program in Motorsports Engineering. I am double majoring in that and Mechanical Engineering, since its only a few more classes to get both and be a licensed ME. I signed up for Formula SAE, but unfortunately it conflicted with my classes this sem. Maybe next year.

Just use electric gauges, 1/8" NPT, fits no problem.

So I guess the temp isn't all that odd?

Everybody tells me that a TII will need extra cooling if driven on the track, but I am not experiencing any problems!

Does anybody else run a stock radiator?

Thanks!

Sweet. Conflicts with classes? Are there structured times for the work? My team would take anyone they could get, whenever they could show up. I was the only non-engineering major on mine, but I had prior experience with machine tools and turning wrenches, and ended up learning how to make fiberglass parts. Spent most of the time working late nights, hell during crunch time at the end trying to get the stupid thing ready I was taking 20 credits too.

What about in the heater hose Output from the side of the block? Racing beat makes this one for the RX-8 http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm

http://racingbeat.com/photos/11493.jpg

Since our heater cores are constant flow, and always circulating despite a closed thermostat, would this be an option?