Silkworm's car...
 

Silkworm, I love seeing your car...
would you post pics and info on it?
I don't have a dedicated race car, but would love to see what has been done to yours..

I have all that info on my website here: www.lcaf.com

Thanks for the complements :)

PaulC

how about the specs on the car? what things have u done to it so far?

on my car?

Specs.. Uh.. 2450lbs dry, who knows how much hp, but probably not a lot. Best of 2:05 at Sears Point, 2:15 at Thunderhill w/bypass, 1:55 at Laguna Seca all by stopwatch.

Done to it..

8 point welded cage with NASCAR style door bars
Fully gutted interior (dash remains intact)
Kirkey Intermediate seat,
Momo steering wheel (oooh) with Quick disconnect
Autometer Tach and Water Temp/OilPressure/Oil Temp guages
Wilwood brake proportioning valve
Simpson harnesses
M&R Window Net

Mazdaspeed Stage 2 suspension, 400/275lb/in springs F/R. Includes Koni struts, coilover setup, camber/caster plates, rear camber link.
Racing Beat swaybars (got tired of waiting for the Eibachs that come with the Stage 2 setup)
Delrin bushings all around, including rear steer elimin.

Brakes are stock non ABS with Carbotech Panther Plus pads all around and SS lines.

Engine is an 89 block, 88 electronics. No smog, no accessories, dual alternator pulley.
Racing Beat Header and 2.5" straight back exhaust with a Magnaflow muffler.
Koyo radiator
Stock Mazda oil cooler, SS oil lines

Lots of stickers for power.

I think that covers most of the major stuff.

PaulC

How are your oil temps with the single stock setup? I couldn't get away with it.

Your spring rates remind me of a funny story. Decided to share my car with a newb road racer this year since my funding is low. He's done ALOT of circle track stuff. Even made some ARCA starts years back. So he's experienced. He says my car is WAY loose. I say I like it and it's "free".:) Part of our rental agreement is that he funds a new set of shocks and struts. So we start talking to people about our setup and what it does and what we want and I say it's got 400 in the front and 325s in the rear. That's what Ground Control recommended when I built the car and I honestly don't know any better. One guy says it should be loose, the other place asks, "How can you drive that car?":) Win, the guy sharing my car, is like "I told you so!" I just guess I like a loose race car and am leaving it for now.:D

I run 500 lb front, and 275lb rear, with a 3 way(RB I believe) adjustable rear bar set full stiff, and a 2 way adjustable front bar set full stiff. I have GC/Koni yellows, adjusted ALL the way down. This is pretty neutral to slight oversteer in my TII, however there is more body roll than I like. Can I up the rates proportionally front and rear, and preserve the balance, or is that so oversimplified that it makes no sense. (sorry for the hijacked thread) Carl Byck

That can work but I doubt the Koni yellows can take much more than a 500 lb. spring. Contact Tri-Point Engineering about the limits of those shocks.

Paul,

How did you measure the steering column (the end, threaded inch) for the quick release and how did you mount it? I've got my eye on one from pegasus but it comes in two sizes for different size shafts. I was thinking about sliding a steel sleeve an inch long snugly over the threads, welding that, then welding the male spline over that. Yours setup? Suggestions? Thanks!

The Konis would have to be revalved up front.

Chris,

Oil temps last year with the Griffin were acceptable even in the hot heat here, 230s. Now, I'm seeing 230s even with 80* heats running the Koyo. So I'm going to have to do something for the summer I think.

You could remove the rear swaybar for him.. That's the way mine's setup, and it's just a bit of understeer all the way through. Nothing obnoxious, still easily tossable through corners.

I have *heard* that 500 is about the max our Konis work well with before needing revalving. I don't know for certain, but like RX-Heven said, Tri Point or Speedsource should know. I'm heading to 500/325 myself, just as an experiment.

Jason,

IIRC, we used a 5/8 sleeve, which was almost a perfect fit farther up. The threaded portion is much smaller than that. So what we did was, took the stock steering wheel nut, lathed it circular until it snugly fit inside the 5/8 sleeve, threaded the nut on flush, welded the nut to the shaft, then welded the sleeve to the nut, as well as farther up on the shaft.

PaulC

No sway bar on the rear.;) Guess we could stiffen the front bar some? I like laughing at him more.:D Until he gets loose and wads up my car.:D

Thanks Paul, I'll try the same route. :D