Roll Bar/Cage Options Question Time Attack Car
So, I'm very slowly building a car. A lot of people suggested I pick something to compete in for guides lines so I decided time attack was for me since I don't want to use the car for wheel to wheel racing and no intention of ever using it for wheel to wheel racing.
So the plan is to make it legal for competing in Global Time Attack, but I'm getting a lot of mixed messages about Roll Cage design and cost. So, for anyone who's had a cage fabricated, how many points, and what was the cost for you? For anyone who's running something like an Auto power U-Weld style cage, how well does it fit the car? My main focus is being safe. I'm thinking a 10 point cage would be good enough, but I'd love an opinion for those actually out there racing. Thanks Some additional info can be found in section 4 here. http://www.globaltimeattack.com/wp-c...14-GTA-CCR.pdf |
I've had bad experience with a weld in kit where you notch your own pipes. If you have a shop that does good cages I would recommend that. Go and visit the shop so you can sit in the seat and create ideas of fitment, especially if your tall.
The kit I had experience with was for a e46 m3. With the height of the driver, 6 ft, I put the main hoop as far back as possible. When it came down to the a pillar bars the shop supplied, the pipes were cut so short the gap between the a pillar and the front bars was huge! The gussets We made later made it look better. Another problem which was partially bad planning because the owner rarely came by, was the door bar would hit his elbow when he turned. |
Originally Posted by GrossPolluter
(Post 11905732)
I've had bad experience with a weld in kit where you notch your own pipes. If you have a shop that does good cages I would recommend that. Go and visit the shop so you can sit in the seat and create ideas of fitment, especially if your tall.
The kit I had experience with was for a e46 m3. With the height of the driver, 6 ft, I put the main hoop as far back as possible. When it came down to the a pillar bars the shop supplied, the pipes were cut so short the gap between the a pillar and the front bars was huge! The gussets We made later made it look better. Another problem which was partially bad planning because the owner rarely came by, was the door bar would hit his elbow when he turned. Hoping to find someone who will quote a price, but being able to work with the shop to insure everything tailors to me being in the car would be fantastic. |
Originally Posted by ProjectR13B
(Post 11906920)
Thanks. I didn't consider the bars being too short. I am tall, but in a stock FC with the seat all the way back, I clear the roof, so I think I'll be good with a Race seat. It'll be fixed with a back plate no matter what route I go. My major problem right now is that locally there aren't any shops that build cages, just a lot who do installs.
Hoping to find someone who will quote a price, but being able to work with the shop to insure everything tailors to me being in the car would be fantastic. |
Originally Posted by GrossPolluter
(Post 11906986)
IM not sure about other companies, but the company I dealt with , you had to notch each pipe, and cut them to length. Good welding is one part, but if the tubes aren't fit nice and tight, even the welds will come out not so nice
|
talk with Fritz, he just had a new cage put in his fd race car, he has mentioned that the previous cage in the car was terrible. you get what you pay for
|
You might have better luck getting a roller ITS car (which will already have a legal cage built) and then go from there.
|
we just did a mail order cage in the miata, and you have to fit the tubes, but it pretty much went right in and works pretty well.
|
Originally Posted by Mahjik
(Post 11907854)
You might have better luck getting a roller ITS car (which will already have a legal cage built) and then go from there.
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:01 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands