RallyCrossed a 1gen this weekend...
 

What fun! A few pics can be found at
http://www.cchanphotography.com/gall...=848&g2_page=2

Check out pages two and three, good stuff.

This was out at the Del Mar Racetrack (horses) in San Diego, a great event put together by DirtyE30.com and About Time Racing, sponsored by Dave Turner Motorsports.

Results may be posted at www.DirtyE30.com/sdrally.html this week, thanks to Denver for letting me codrive the car while our Rallye Fiero took a dump after its first run.

nice :)

What kind of tires are those? they look bigger then stock

Rally Open 2wd allows for full rally tires, those were 205/65-15 Falken med-compound gravel tires on Panasport wheels.

This was a former Club Rally car, so it had the terratrip computer, cage, fire system, etc....very cool. It was set of tarmac setting when the owner bought it, so it was too low and too stiff, but we managed to get it around the course a few times without blowing up :-)

nice lol

That's cool. I've been know to rallyx one of my FB's from time to time. Even been thinking about getting some 13" rally tires.

What did you do to raise it up? New springs? If so do you know the spring rates?

Not my car, but there were coilovers and aftermarket springs on it with Tokico Illuminas. The car would have needed to be raised a few inches. Spring rates wouldn't be necessarily higher, just higher ride height for more wheel travel. 13 or 14" rallye tires would have been better, the 15's were just too big for the bodywork and the gearing.

I'm so jealous! I love that dirtye30 site as I have an ix too.

So if it's the same rates and just needs to be raised...... I need to find a way to make some spacers then.

how did you guys set up your cars i have an fc i want to rally out for local use and some minor floggin...im on a limited budget so what can i do to get it ready?

Ok so I've been doing this in the RX-7 for a couple of years now. I did a home brew coil over set up on the front. I've gone thru a couple of sets of front shocks. They were used so maybe they were due. I've got new KYB's on there now. The front is raised up a bit but if you go too far - you get positive camber. At the rear, I have some 5" springs with spring adjusters to raise it up. The rear sway bar is gone. Just this past weekend I disconnected the front sway bar. This was for fun runs so I don't know if it was quicker or not but it sure was easier to control the car during the slides.

I've fooled around with the front and rear spring rates some. The stock ones rear ones would be fine except they don't work with the rear spring adjusters.

Any pics of your coilover setup? I had planned to use some shackes just sitting on the stock spring perches (need more rideheight anyway, right?) but the local group quit putting them on in back of our shop... and I'm just too damn busy to pick up that ball and go. Maybe one of these days...

Alabama cant be far from 100 Acre Wood or Rally Tennessee, plan to hit the stages at all this year? Give me a shout if you do, should be codriving and such in a GC Subaru if it gets built.

I'll see if I can't get some pics. If I forget it's pretty easy. Others have done this as well. Cut the stock spring perch off, weld on a steel ring to the strut, install adjusting sleeve - say from a Miata kit - above the steel ring, install new springs and spring hat.

All this is for rallycross. I haven't done the stage rally thing.

Having run 65cm tires, I agree! I now run 185/65R15 Falkens in the front so that I don't have to cut out the inner fender box. They recently made that illegal.

DEFINITELY need more spring rate, though. With stock spring rates, the rear end unloads the inside tire far too easily. With no swaybar and non grippy tires, I liked 200lb front. With good tires, I have the swaybar back again, and I'm going to try going to some 250lb. I have a heavier engine now, and I have a 50lb skid plate to protect my oil cooler as well, so that makes a big difference. With the 12A and beehive, I was running 14" 150lb springs with the perches cut and rewelded for zero spring preload at full droop. Later added a 1/2" shim on the L/F because that corner is just so heavy.

The rear is tricky, it NEEDS to be soft, but stock is too stiff for good grip but too soft to keep from ramming the driveshaft into the floor (man, it makes a lot of noise when you do that). The solution involves body surgery and installing a 3 link. Through trial and error, i found that a short instant center with the axle pivot about 4" above the diff banjo and a body pivot as far forward and down on the inside of the "bin area" as possible to work well. This is with the lower links parallel to the ground at ride height. 130lb springs work well with this setup, although rougher stuff will need more. I've run up to 200lb in the rear but obviously it hurts grip.

The car ends up sitting nose-high, but it drives pretty sweet.

This is from the final event for my old 3 linked car. I took FTD. Not bad for being about 200hp down on the STIs.

Grip:
http://www.zoto.com/ilikeitsideways/...e0dcf69a44.jpg

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNEgmS039gk

You coming to Nashville at the end of the month?

No, I'm going to a WOR Regional in about four hours, an OVR Regional next weekend, and a SuperMoto RallyX in Detroit on the 25th.

Absolutely no way I can afford to take time off of work and drive 13-15 hours each way to go to Nationals. My car isn't ready, anyway. Plus, I've barely driven it all year. Since taking the GLDiv M2 championship last year, my car has had three different engines in it! Most of which happened during racing season.

The SuperMoto thing looks like it will be a lot of fun. It's run part pavement, part dirt, the speeds are higher, it's run in a two car on course chase type setup, and - the really unusual part - it pays money. No kidding! It's not SCCA sanctioned, it's something some organizers in Detroit are trying out.