racing suspension
 

i have an rx-7 i have been working on for a bit, and it is finally reliable enough to just have to worry about up keep. i was thinking about it lastnight, and am going to make it my auto-x car instead of my daily(my old auto-x car was a 95 ford probe) so i need to know where there are some good package deals for sway bars, springs, shocks ect. i found this one website a while back called fc3s.org i think, but i cant find it anymore. by the way it is an '86 sport.

I think its www.teamfc3s.org

That is a site but it is totaly seperate from FC3S.org ( http://www.FC3S.org/ ) which is Dave Gibson & Co in So Cal near San Diego

I wouldn't look for a package. Just get some adjustable shocks and some coilovers. Go for adjustability.

I have a '95 PGT. Not that great for autocrossing. It's huge compared to the other cars that compete. It's still a great car though. (But why did they have to give it that name...?)

i dunno, but i love my probe. it was an alright auto-x'er but the rx is loke night and day. what setups do you guys run, how much did you pay, and where did you get them?

Re: racing suspension
 

The parts section you are reffering to is now a full blown store do meet the demands of the customers. It is found at http://www.fcstore.com We can make a package deal on just about anything suspension related, and have ready access to full blown race car suspension including Bilstein shock coil overs, bushing elimination suspension setups (roller bearings) etc.

K2RD.com

I have c/c plates and coilovers with 400lb springs up front and 275lbers out back with KYB AGX adjustable struts/shocks. The springs are very stiff on the street but on smooth road they are awesome.

I also got a rear adjustable camber link.

-2* camber up front with a teensy bit of toe in
-1* out back with near zero toe

Car handles amazing :). Mine was a base model SE with no options. I converted it to T2/GXL brakes/rims/differential with Motul brake fluid, braided steel brake lines, and HAWK HP+ pads. Stock 13B with 160K on the clock runs strong.

Get the rear toe eliminator bushings as suggested already. These are a must for performance driving.

-GNX7

350/250lb springs would probably be a better choice.

700/450 :D

some e-prod cars run 900# + up front

At that point, why not just replace the strut with a solid steel rod... let the tire sidewall to all the work like in F1. ;)

Well, I was on the bumpstops for sure at Sears Point with 400 lb springs, so I'm moving up in rates..

PaulC

Silkworm: How much suspension travel do you have with your suspension so low?

fd's need stiffer springs in relation to fc's due to the more inboard location of the spring.

Carl, are those your spring rates? :eek:
What shocks are you using and how much did you spend?

DAharon,

IIRC, 3-4" before I'm touching the bumpstops.

PaulC

Spring Rates
 

Carl isn't the only one way up there with spring rates. I have successfully run rates up to 800/ 500. Most times I am running lower with 600 / 400 the most common. The choice of rates is very dependant on the roughness of the track, sway bar rates, ride height, tires, posi engagement rate and shock damping capability. Spring rate suggestions are only that, suggestions. What is acceptable for racers like Carl or myself may not work for you due to your driving style. Just my $.02.

what is a good average starting point for springs? where do i buy them?

Actually I am currently running 550/300, there is too much body roll IMHO, and the car pushes at the limit(turn 4 at Sears). This is with a 2 way adjustable bar set on full stiff(suspension techniques I believe) I currently have Koni Yellows. I put 700/550 on briefly to see what the body roll was like, and even under-damped,(yellows, well beyond their stock limit) the car was much closer to neutral, with a little bit of oversteer at the limit(just how I like it). I believe I will be going to the GC/AD set-up, with speedway tubular bars(front at least), and rates in the neighborhood of 700/550. I may go a little softer(400-450) out back to help hook the power, which will be in the 450-500rwhp range. Since I am changing everything, my future set-up should not serve as a guide to anyone. As far as my existing set-up, I would say it is about perfect for an agressively driven dual use car. For serious track work it leaves much to be desired. I also need to get the car lower, as I was just right at the bottom of the front perch with a 6" 550lb spring, and 235-40-17s(24.5" diameter). My new tires will likely be in the 25-25.5" range, so I need more adjustment. I will probably end up "farming out" the suspension set-up, as I feel it is beyond my ability to maximize the potential of the car.

BTW, I definitely was on the stops with 450lb fronts at Sears between 2, and 3a.

so where do i get these springs at? how big of sway bars should i get?

Steven, to do WHAT?

I like my whole set of Tein
super hard but super firm

to do auto-x, it is a dedicated track car, and im building it up over the winter. i would go to tracks like sears point, and laguana seca, but they are kinda far.

I was referring to to an FC e-production car, FD's run in GT-1 or 2 w/ PP na engines.

FD's can also run in GT-3 or GT-2 w/12a J-Bridge.