Racing beat main pulley distributor install dilema...
 

Okay so normally i would call racingbeat on their product but its the weekend and im impatient. I have made another franken wankel but this is the 1st time i have used their main pulley for a build since I have always had stock beforehand.

Timing marks are 10 btdc 0 tdc 10 atdc and 20 atdc any cas/dizzy install in would line the leading pulley mark with the pointer on the front cover. Then line the dots up on the dizzy and slide it in and go.

Are these values the leading or trailing tdc?

Another issue is that i am using a s4 front cover on s5 rotating assy but i marked the s5 pointer location my front cover.

Which aiming mark on the pulley am i aiming for to install the distributor properly? I cant be the 1st person to do this.

I got it to start with a struggle with the dizzy installed at the tdc pulley mark but only with the distributor rotated at max clockwise position. Which makes me think that its too advanced and is off a tooth or X many degrees.

What say you?

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Well I got it running but I have no idea what mark it actually worked on, tried a bunch of different combinations of pulley marks, s4 timing cover pointer, s5 pointer mark on s4 cover.

This is exactly the issue I have as well. S4 Timing Cover and eccentric pulley on S5 rotating Assembly. I didn't even realize that there would be a difference in timing marks (duh). No wonder my car was so difficult to understand and how it just keeps running better the more advance we throw at it. I am now not sure where my timing actually is. I would love a simple answer like in your case when it is reading 20 degrees BTDC its actually 10, so add 10 and your golden, kind of thing.

Eric

Ill snap a pic of my timing cover and measure for you. I made a mark for the s5 pointer on my s4 cover.

Set engine at TDC, mark where the pulley is compared to your timing cover, and you are gold! Don't guess these things!

That's probably what I did. I have to pull the distributor to re-plug the hole on the front iron for the turbo feedline since my existing plug only held up so-so. (t2 block, NA internals)

When I set the pointer to TDC on the pulley and if I pull the distributor and the dots line up well then I will know.

best practice is to check the timing marks before you put the engine together

however, every E shaft has the cut for the key in the same place, so the RB pulley will have its marks in the same place relative to the eshaft no matter what rotating assembly you have. if the pointer is moving between front cover series than this is a problem.

Mazda likes to use ATDC and a positive number, while the rest of the world likes BTDC and it would put the stock marks negative this is potential problem #2

the RB pulleys are marked, 20BTDC 10BTDC TDC and -10BTDC the stock pulley is marked -5BTDC and -20BTDC. so if you wanted stock timing the leading would be half way between the TDC mark and the -10BTDC mark on the RB pulley, at idle.

Normally you can just unbolt the belt pulley from the e-shaft pulley and see the keyway at the 9 o'clock position with the engine at TDC but not with the RB. :(

Two groove or single groove pulley?

The single groove pulley is NOT marked 0/10/20, it is 0/12.5/25.

Set the engine to TDC #1, put the distributor in so the D-flat for the rotor is facing to the front, line up the leading pickup and reluctor, and presto you have static timed the engine.

If you ran out of adjustment, then you either stabbed the distributor in off a tooth or you installed the crank sprocket backwards.

I'm pretty sure he's running a double pulley which is marked 10 ATDC , 0, 10 BTDC, 20 BTDC

http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/11469%20Pulley.pdf

are you sure the front covers have different timing marks? which one is the RB pully timed for?...

Yeah its the two groove.

The s5 vs s4 has about 10 to 15 devree difference.

It runs pretty dam good.

That doesn't sound very brappy. I thought you were going for something bore braptacular?

That throttle response makes me want to ditch the EFI and put this Dell on my car :)

ehhhhh, I starred down the Bridgeport and PP road and decided if I was not going to do it because of how deep that rabbit hole is (cost wise) Also to not reinvent the wheel since the car has a pretty good formula because it did manage to best several of you this August with marginal compression left and a significant HP disadvantage... :whip:

Also the new OEM cap/rotor and FD plugs made a big difference, I can't remember the last time I bought new plugs for this car... just like snowmobile probs. Why does it run all shitty? well pull and clean the plugs then got WOT!

Although this carb is too damn tiny, I am itching for a 55 DCO but above 45 you loose choke and that is soo handy in these single digit days/ice racing.

I WOULDA GOT YOU IF IT WEREN'T FOR THAT PESKY MEDDLING DEBEAD :D :D

Evan won Nationals and I got a very close third place, so, um... GLDiv MR guys kick ass.

You know what makes spark plug problems go away? MSD. I could go 20k on plugs after I put the MSD in, before that they were 3k maintenance items.

Disclaimer: Last time I had an RX-7 without an MSD on it was my all stock '80, every other one got an MSD as a matter of course

Funny story, when I went to do this first start. I had to diag a no spark. Got leading fine but the MSD High vibration blaster coil... failed

power going in, distributor working fine, igniters fine. no change to the wiring but the coil took a dump, now im back to a stock FB coil for my trailing.

Also, go us midwesterers!