Racing Alternator
 

Anyone interested in a racing only alternator? I have a 6lbs. 55amp mini alt in my race car and was wondering if there was enough interest to put together some kits. I guess it could be used in a street car but not if you have a big thumping sound system. The only drawback I can forsee would be that the stock alt. plug would be unused and therefore the alt. warning light would not work. Cost would be around $300 + shipping. This is a "plug and play deal and would include everything you need to replace your heavy stock alt. Let me know if you guys are interested.

A stock '84 Rx-7 55amp alternator weighs in at 9.25lbs and you want to sell a 6lb alternator for $300. I am no brain surgeon but that is $100 per pound in weight savings. I think I would go on a diet to shave 3lb and save $300 + shipping. Skipping a few large meals before a race could do that.

I appoligize if I seem harsh but $300 for shaving 3lbs, what am I missing. ANYBODY???

I know of better places to spend $300, like track seat time.

I think the idea is so that you can eat extra on the buffet before the race :)))

Hey lighten bud I'm just testing the waters here. Not trying tgo rip anyone off. I guess you answered my question and I wont be seeing your check anytime soon :) but just remember that these are new unused parts. Not some crap pulled off a scrap heap.

As far as cost analasis goes, this is from Carparts .com for the new parts that you mentioned. Maybe you can find them cheaper?

Alternator, Reman.; 50 Amp; One V-Belt; For Mitsubishi systems
• Subject to mfg. core inventory / Usually ships in 7 - 10 business days. BECK/ARNLEY 186-0355 $249.54 $191.99 $0.00 Each

Alternator, Reman. Repl.; 55,60 Amps Mitsubishi System, Plug Config. MI5+P, Inter. Reg.
• Subject to mfg. core inventory / Usually ships in 7 - 10 business days. BOSCH AL391X $257.50 $232.60 $0.00 Each

So apples to apples my stuff only only costs $33.33 / pound or $22.46 for the Bosch unit, plus shipping of coarse....
;) ;) ;) :) :)

I have to agree, new parts for racing is prefered, but new parts are also not stress tested. I have seen brand new parts fail, compared to a parts that has seen 75k+ miles.

Hey if you get a chance shoot a picture of the set up, I would like to share it with my buddies that do the 12hour enduro next month. They have to at night so a good alternator is needed.

What is the turn around time for a alternator?

Well if you want one I can gather the parts within a day and ship at the most a couple of days later. I just need to know what pully you use for belt size.

I'll try to take a pic asap.

I agree about the stress test. The one on my car did the entire SCCA runoffs this year without a hitch, if that is any test.

I know of at least one EProd driver who's putting his car on a diet... 3 lbs up high and forward is a pretty big deal for him!

For a race car $100 per pound saved doesn't actually sound too bad. I'd certainly be interested.

What would be nice would be something that would combine a lighter alternator mount with an electric water pump adaptor so you could remove the whole water pump casting. Should bring the weight savings up to the 10 pound mark

Bill

I use a 1990 Turbo ][ alt. 80 amps and I always have good voltage. It's lasted 2.5 years of constant hot lapping days. I spun the motor up to 10,000 last weekend on the dyno and 9600 on the track and she took the abuse. Mazdacomp pullies.

3lbs weight savings would be nice but $300 is steep. Some peoples put Geo Metro alts on their racecars, they're small and low amp.

Another option is to ditch the alt entirely and use a 15volt battery and charge it up in the paddock

DRivefast7, I spin my motor to 10K every time I shift! Realy I shift at 9600 but at a lot of tracks I need to exceed that for one reason or another. This one is rated at 50 amps and I use a small battery mounted in back of the passenger seat. I don't really like the total loss system. I saw a guy lose a race from a ten second lead this year because the generator that was charging the car between sessions ran out of gas. No one realized untill it was too late. Too much maintence... I know the cost is steep but as I said before these are new parts and not a whole lot more $ then new Mazda parts.

Bill,
I could look into removing the WP entirely but the rules I race under prohibit electric WP's. I see mounting the alt. on the plug side of the motor under the CAS. Then make up a cover with an-14 or -20 bungs to go where the WP was, mount the pump on the inner fender... You pay for it and I'll make it... :)
My car

Problem is that I have a dry sump pump on the plug side of the motor so it would still have to go on top.

I'll work something out one day. Mind you I don't even know where the alternator on my engine came from as it is smaller that the standard 1st gen units. One day I will work out where it all came from.

Can you run it off of the rear axle or the pinion flange?

Not really as it has to remain a street legal car

Well not sure why you would need a drysump on a street car but "to each thier own". BTW ever thought of adding an extra stage onto the sump pump to act as a WP?

To the rest of you guys would you be interested in a bolt on electric WP set up if I put one together? And how much do you think it should cost?

Lower polar moment. The engine is in a lotus 7 replica, and as it weighs around 1250lbs moving the block down 4" is worthwhile. And it was a good deal.

I can't extend the sump pump as it would cover the front rotor plugs then. I need to think more about it.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=212410 shows a couple of pictures of the rough install. Much tidying up needed still