Quick disconnect of A/C compressor?
 

Thinking about the following track season and one of the issues I'd like to improve is cooling. I know the typical solutions, but an idea recently crossed my mind.

Is there a way to have a fabrication shop install something like a quick disconnect / connect device so that one can remove the A/C condensor and still not lose the charge in the system?

Thought this would be nice for track events.

I guess I really don't want to give up my AC if I don't have to.

but why? do u want to reduce weight by removing the ac compressor? or do u want to reduce the paristic losses due to the belt? if its just hte belt then just remove the belt.

Ok, maybe I used the wrong terminology.

I'm referring to the "radiator-like" object that sits directly in front of the radiator itself.

I know it hinders air flow to the radiator so I thought it would be nice to be able to maximize air flow when needed (e.g., on the track). This not about weight reduction.

Hope this helps or makes more sense.

Good question..........anybody?

What about relocating the brackets to pull the condensor off of the radiator? Perhaps even just lower the fwd brackets so that it looks like a V and scoops air?

I suppose you could fabricate some quik-connects for the each end of the condensor and the evaporator (there is refrigerant in both). I guess it depends on the pressure rating for the fittings. However, if you're going to go to that much trouble .... either junk the whole A/C system (and save some weight) -OR- remount the radiator flush with the nose and mount the condensor behind the radiator. It'll still work .... just not as well.

Quick disconnect in the a/c lines won't work; you'll loose the vacuum in the system. Quick disconnect are not "instant", the short time the system is open is enough to make it not work.

The A/C system is under pressure, not vacuum.
You initially vacuum down the A/C system when initially charging it to lower the boiling point of water to evacuate the water from the system (although there is the dryer which helps remove moisture from a closed system).

I've never heard of q/d's for the A/C lines, aside from the the recharge fittings. Search on google, you may come up with something, but it really isn't worth the trouble.

I dunno why EVERYONE assumes their car will overheat...

I have a stockish car (downpipe, catback), stock rad with foglights, and I've never overheated on track. Yes, it gets warm, no I don't live in TX, but 90+ degree days at VIR and no problems.

I know of a few heavily modded cars that retained A/C for the longest time, then went on a diet, and lost it because of wanting to lose some weight.

Perhaps one should do some cooling system maintenance before simply assuming that their car will overheat and taking drastic measures must be taken to correct it (replace t-stat, water pump, drilled/removed t-stat, spring in radiator hoses, shark mod, remove fogs)?

High temps or threat of overheating is probably a function of both the cooling setup of the car and a driver ability.

I know of several people with all the basic cooling solutions and advanced driving abilities that run easily between 220-235 degrees (water temp.). On a 75 degree day I'm at 230 degrees for 20 minutes and I have all the cooling upgrades minus the monster oil coolers. I'd like to try to slightly improve it.

In lieu of getting the monster oil coolers ($900) I thought that eliminating the AC condensor would be a simple and incremental solution. Apparently I'm wrong. I just fighting the inevitable--permanently losing my AC.

Putting the condensor behing the radiator is an interesting idea, but I don't think I could pull that off with the larger radiator + fans and the CWR SMIC.

BTW, at this point I have lowered my AC condensor so that there is a 3" gap between the condensor and radiator. This is has helped along with the other basic tricks...again, just looking to IMPROVE on my current correctly working system.

thanks for the input.

rceron have you blocked off the sides of the radiator inlet? I have found that makes a big difference at track speeds.

Damon, everything is blocked. I duct tape everything before a track weekend.

A long time ago I worked on a 747 that we converted from a United Airlines passenger plane to a VIP for someone. United had chillers for the food/beverage stuff and had individual compressor units, all of which had brass QD fittings for quick component changes. So I guess it would work. I would only be concerend with leakage from the fittings as freon has a sneaky way of getting through any possible place. You might wanna try jiffy tite QD fittings. They seem well made.

Thanks Carl. That's the type of info I was hoping to get. I will look into it.

R