Quick alignment question
 

In the front of my S5, on the street I normally run zero toe with about -1.5 camber. When I head to the track I would like to dial in a bit more negative camber, say -2.5 degrees to allow the Nitto NT01 track rubber to work better and possibly help to even out any issues with temps across the tread. Any idea on what the effect is on the toe setting when I add the additional negative camber to the front? The ride height is close to stock, maybe 1/4" lower. TIA.

On an FD the camber adjustment is on the lower control arm - adding negative camber increases toe in.

On the FC the camber adjustment is the top of the strut - that should not have as much affect on toe.

Hopefully for you an FC expert will chime in.

DeaconBlue,
How are you measuring your camber / toe?

unless you slot the bolt holes the fc has no camber adjustment. you can also slot the struts' mounting bolts at the bottom., and this increases toe in on the fc as well.

I have a set of Stance GR+Pro coil overs on the car . They came with adjustable camber upper front mounts. I had the shop dial in the street alignment with -1.5 degree camber with 0.02" toe in and 5 degrees caster. The rears are -1.7 degree camber and 0.06" toe in. I may dial some more of that out with the adjustable vertical link that I have already installed. I was hoping for zero toe both front and rear, but the total trust angle is 0.01 degree. On flat and level pavement she goes dead straight, but she follows the crown on the road otherwise.

I have a nice flat piece of pavement and a Craftsman digital level gauge to double check the camber settings.

On the track I was hoping to bump the front camber to -2.5 degree, which is the minimum recommended for the Nitto NT01 tires. I was just hoping not to induce too much toe change with the added negative camber. I need to double check the tire/rim clearance to the spring/strut and make sure there is enough clearance for the addition negative camber. I am also running close to stock ride height - well at least not as much drop in the front as I had with the Eibach springs.

going two decimal places with the toe is more than close enough .006 is effectively zero.

i know the toe doesn't change much with camber, you're probably ok, but maybe you want to buy/make a pair of toe plates?

you can figure it out decently easily by comparing the ratio between the ball joint to the camber plate and the ball joint to the tie rod.

so if you figure the difference between the strut top to ball joint is 20" long and the difference between the ball joint and tie rod is like 2"? (I'm just making up these numbers) If you move the camber plates 1" the toe changes .1" toe out per side at the tie rod... at the tire where it's more likely measured (or even further out than that for toe plates) it's at least double that or maybe triple that....

so you're now talking about possibly a half inch combined toe out... I'd invest in some toe plates, they're nice to have :)