questions about alignment and camber
 

I'm currently runnin -1.9 degrees camber in the front wheels on my FD and -1.7 in the rear. The car experiences tremendous understeer under high speeds(Scary!). I'm going to have the car re-aligned, but I heard on FD's it's better to have more negative camber on the rear than on the front, is that true?

I run -1.8 on the rear and -1.5 on the fronts. I don't really notice that much difference in steering. I feel more grip through transitions ... especially in slaloms. As far as your understeer problems, I don't think your camber settings are at fault. What's your toe settings at? What do you keep your shock settings at when on the track? Have you checked your front swaybar lately? Maybe cracked a swaybar mount?

Could be tire pressure, "incorrect" roll bar adjustment, improper shock settings, a relaxed spring, improper weight distribution, a ride height issue fr to rear, then it could also be camber and toe related.
Also is the understeer on turn-in, on corner exit, power on, or off-throttle, or even just steady state?
Just throwing out some other varibles for you consider before simply focusing on one area.
Regards,
Crispy

you didn't mention tire make/model and sizes, spring rates, ride height, sway bar type/rate, etc,etc

the ONLY way to optimize pressure and camber is to use a pyrometer and use temps as your guide.

i run 285/30-18 v700's all around. my settings are now 29-30 psi cold, -2.0 front camber, -.5 rear camber.... and still working on it because i'm slowly lowering the ride height.

appropriate camber setting is intimately related to the overall roll rate at each end (individual spring rate plus the sway bar rate). cars with lower overall roll rate (car rolls more in corners) tend to need more negative camber. taking numbers off of another car which is not set up IDENTICALLY is a waste of time. adjusting camber based only on a subjective feeling of understeer is probably only possible if you are EXTREMELY talented and experienced at chassis tuning....and even those guys use objective data.

buy a pyrometer and do it right. read the book "how to make your car handle" by puhl (i think that's the author)

good luck
fabian