oil weight.
 

What weight oils are you fellas running.
I run new oil at ever event and have really good heat exchangers

the car runs time trials and autox events so their short duration


mike

Here in the southeast I run 20w50 for track events (25-30 minute sessions). I usually change the oil after every weekend to avoid gas dilution.

I'm thinking of running something a little lighter (10w40 maybe) because with dual oil coolers, my temps aren't getting above too much above 160 at the filter (probably also need to put the thermostat back in at least one of the coolers).

-b

Amsoil 20w50 all the time, i used to use Castrol 10w40 but after 1500miles it would come out like water. The amsoil seems to hold up to the abuse alot better.

It's a tradeoff. I put about 250-300 miles on the car in a track weekend, so I probably end up changing the oil every 500-600 miles. The Amsoil is about 2.5x the cost of the Castrol 20w50.

But I would still change it that often due to fuel dilution, regardless of the brand. This is for a track-only car. For a street car, the less frequent change intervals could be seen as a benefit.

-bill

Addendum: if this a for a "mainly street" car and you aren't having issues with oil temps, then I would go with a 10w40 oil in the summer and 10w30 in the cooler temps. Both will stand up to the short abuse of time trials and auto-x, and the oil will be better suited for daily driving. Just change the oil before the events.

nah this is a track only pretty modified 13b na car.

I may try a 10w30 synthetic

???? I don't know anyone who would recommend that for a track car. Use 20w50. I was using Idemitsu Synthetic (rx7.com or Mazdatrix but I know rx7.com is out right now - no supply left in the US). I switched to Valvoline 20w50 VR1 racing. I'm using 8-9 qts b/c of an Accusump and also change all fluids after every weekend of use.

Agreed - track only vehicle with elevated temps and constantly high RPMS - you need the heavier oil.

Why? From Mazda's technical section: "When breaking in any engine (race or stock), use a low ash content, mineral-based racing oil (20W or 30W). After the break-in period, change to a mineral or synthetic racing oil (30W or 40W)."

A straight 30 weight synthetic racing oil would be fine in MI, a 40 weight oil would be recomended in the south.

My engine builder recommended any cheap 10W 40 oil and change it after 3 hours of track time. That's what I do... usually it's common Cheveron or Shell street car oil. I've never had an issue. I have a NA FI 13b with a 7k rpm rev limit... and it sees that limit alot. We use the stock GSL-SE oil cooler. He did install a Mazdamotorsports racing wet sump oil pump and bumped the oil pressure up a bit. Our oil comes out looking just about the same as it looked going in.

Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 racing oil. It costs about $2.85 a quart, and is available at most autoparts stores that sell Valvoline. It foams less at 8000+ rpm, so your hi-rpm oil pressure will be a little higher than with other oils that get foamy. Air bubbles in your oil will lower your oil pressure just like air bubbles in your brake lines will make your brake pedal spongy. Foamy oil is bad for high rpm rotaries.

Foaming is not a problem with 7000 rpm engines; but it is a serious problem with sustained 8000+ rpm race engines. I liked how well the Valvoline performed in my peripheral port road racer so much that I also run it in my street port daily driver rotary, even though I limit my dailyi driver to below 8000 rpm.

www.fuji-racing.com Also sells Idimitsu Oil for anyone is interested. Just give jimmy a call and find out more.

oil
 

I use 10w-40 Royal Purple in my 84 spec 7. It has a lot of track time on it due to it being a rental for a few years. I change it every other track session, as it seems to not break down and get watery or thin. I got a 12qt box for $5.20 a quart at napa, early 2006, now it's reatiling for $7 a quart:cursing: