Kill switch
 

My battery is relocated and I need a kill switch. Where can I get one. I found a toggle switch with a 50 Amp rating. I dont think it will but is this enough?

Not enough really. Try Summit, Jegs, Racer Wholesale, Pegasus, etc. etc. Go ahead and get one that has the seperate posts for the alternator cut. You'll run your alternator charge wire back through the cutoff switch. This way when the switch is turned off the engine won't continue to run off the alternator.

I already have one but I want to run a bypass inside. It seems that a switch on the outside of the car is a little too tempting for some. Thanks for the info I found a nice 175 amp one online for $25.00.

So the safety rules (I'm assuming NHRA?) say you have to have it outside so the track worker can get to it. So you want to bypass that with your own internal switch? Hope I'm reading that incorrectly.

If it's for the SCCA, or anyone that doesn't absolutely require the switch to be on the outside of the car, just mount the primary switch inside the car that's easily accesible through a window for the track workers. Two switches are a terrible idea.

I've seen several scca cars with a kill switch the driver can get to with an external one for the workers. Usually mounted close to the fire bottle pull switch.

NHRA is correct. So what do I do when some idiot walks by and turns off my battery killing my alarm and every thing else in the car? When I go to the track I will open the one inside the car so that the rear externally mounted cutoff will kill the battery. For normal everyday use I will keep the internal on closed so that people walking by cant just turn off my battery. It makes sense tro me.

I mount my single switch just inside the passenger door area, near where the passenger's shoulder would be. A corner worker can reach in the open window and get at the kill switch.

If you are worried about car security, then when your windows are rolled up and the car is locked, then they cannot turn off a switch mounted like I described.

You cannot have another switch parallel or bypass the main safety kill switch, that is illegal according to most racing rules.

Which racing sanctioning body are you racing with?

Take the switch handle with you.

^ what he said. Just use one of the kill switches with the detachable red handle. Keep the switch on and the handle in your glove box when you're on the street. Put the handle in the switch for the track - you'll need a lanyard for the handle, of course.

The switch is there for a reason. And with two switched there is always the chance that you'll forget to open the switch in the car when you're at the track. Rendering the outside switch inoperable. Bad idea IMO. Using a keyed switch is an excellent idea.

Just an FYI......

I built my drag RX-7 to NHRA specs, it states in the rule book that you CAN NOT have two cut off swithes, and it MUST be located in the rear with an easly identified tag stating which way is off.
if this is a street car and sometimes you hit the track, well then they are not going to care, i bet they will not even know. but if it is going to be a track only car like mine, then you can bet they tech the car a lot more carefully.

It really is amazing how many little rules are in there rule book. how to mount the seat, ware the belts MUST go, ware the door bar has to be, how the rear mounted battery must be mounted, how the fuel cell must be mounted..... the list goes on and on......

anyways, just my .02

ohhhh yeah, and like they said above, in your case i would go with the key switch.... cures all of your problems.

Unfortunatly at Moroso in West Palm Beach Florida when they see an RX-7 or even an import they proceed to tear into to it very thoroughly. They cought my battery in the back and booted me for not having a kill switch even thought I was running the street tire test and tune in the sportsmans class. It was not an event. Just a test and tune.

I really dont want to drill a hole in my otherwise pristine FC so I just dont go to the track with it.